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alternator 7045 |
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rick ky ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Oct 2009 Location: georgetown ky Points: 106 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 11 May 2023 at 1:02am |
looking for wiring diagram going from niehoff 3 wire to delco remy alternator
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rick ky ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Oct 2009 Location: georgetown ky Points: 106 |
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i have three spades on top to connect to. #1 spade position i have attached a green/with black stripe. #2 spade has a jumper wire to battery post. #3 spade above #2 spade has a brown wire. there was a niehoff there before last year. thanks for any help.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85458 |
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that should work... #1 is the signal to dash light... #2 is HOT to the BAT terminal... and the odd ball is the TACH terminal / brown wire... Does it work ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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rick ky ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Oct 2009 Location: georgetown ky Points: 106 |
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tach works. replaced niehoff with 100 amp delco from shoup. just not getting the 14 plus volts to run lights, air and baler monitor
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85458 |
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your green signal wire on #1 terminal has to have voltage from the dash to EXCITE the alternator... then you will get 14 v out of the BAT Terminal ... possibly that wire does not have a signal.. i think it goes thru a dash light..... you might try touching the #1 terminal to #2 terminal to get 12v and see if it KICKS IN and starts charging ... The #1 terminal is suppose to be turned on and off with the key switch, and normally has just under 12 v signal.. thats why it goes thru the light bulb... you can also use a resistor to drop the voltage if your dash wire / bulb is bad....
You could check the power on #1 terminal with the key ON --- should be just under 12v... and #2 should be over 12 v with the BAT terminal.... your dash light is suppose to take the place of the resistor .... generic wire looks like this..... look at #1 terminal - to resistor - to ignition switch. ![]() Edited by steve(ill) - 12 May 2023 at 9:27pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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rick ky ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Oct 2009 Location: georgetown ky Points: 106 |
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thanks to you steve Ill. and steve B&B, for your information. its always a process of elimination when doing elerctrical repair work on 40 year old tractors that are trying to be used in the 21st century. After tracing all the wires, bulbs, resistors, switches. and checking the batteries to make sure they are good, it was time to check everything. As you suggested check voltage at alternator itself, it checked out okay with key turn on. Next step to check with tractor turn on, easy enough to check with the monitor voltage setting on. With tractor turned on, air conditioning on, lights on and baler monitor on, everthing worked, fourteen volts. The true issue is or was with the delco alternator, with borrowing alternator from 7020 to get by was not carrying enough charge to do the work needed. New 100 amp alternator installed this morning to delight of not having to sweat it out next week in the cab is a blessing. thank you rick ky
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11925 |
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Rick, Sounds like you did good! I figured you'd be looking in the 90-100 amp output range for an Alternator with the accessories you have and use. Glad to hear it worked out for ya! Happy motoring! Or should I say "Happy Tractoring"....... ![]() Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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