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hunter321 
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 Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 9:07am |
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This tractor had been sitting outside with a cover on the stack for 15 years. I have had it running for 5, and in that time I never checked the oil, I had to add antifreeze every once in a while. The other day I checked the oil and it was milky. so I drained it and 3 gallons came out. I pulled the valve cover off and it looked like vanilla pudding but the rockers looked great. I probably have 30 hours running the tractor
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Ted J
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 10:01am |
So,,,,,you've got 30 hours of running in 5 years? You did NOTHING to this tractor since you bought it? You didn't change the oil in those 5 years? "
It runs perfectly fine with the water oil mix." You may have kissed your crank bearings goodbye doing this. "put everything back together and add head gasket sealer to see what that does" WHY and WHERE are you adding head gasket sealer?
Like the good Dr says,,,,,we NEED the full story. From the time you got it and ALL that you did to it since. Give us the COMPLETE story.
BUT,,,,,,,the help and info that you have been given so far is good. The FIRST thing to do is to pressure test the system!!!
We ARE trying to help you....there are STEPS that you must take to find out what is wrong. THEN you can go about fixing them. It's NOT hard, but necessary.
We're pulling for you to get this going and working correctly. Don't get frustrated, it'll all come together once we KNOW EVERYTHING and then we can help. GOOD LUCK!!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 10:43am |
wiring - AllisChalmers Forum - Page 1here is what i have done so far i also split the tractor and repaired the hand clutch i also replaced the muffler
Edited by hunter321 - 28 Oct 2024 at 11:38am
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 11:18am |
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why does everyone think the worst. this was my grandpas tractor, when he parked it he drained all the fluids and tarped it but the tarp was destroyed a year later and he never retarped it
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ekjdm14
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 11:48am |
 hunter321 wrote:
why does everyone think the worst. this was my grandpas tractor, when he parked it he drained all the fluids and tarped it but the tarp was destroyed a year later and he never retarped it |
The issue is, right from the original post there's been unclarified confusion & omissions to the timeline of things.
Doc's not trying to poke at you (none of us are, we're all in this for the orange after all  ), but it's hard to help diagnose something from afar even when you DO have the full backstory in order. I get not all of us are the greatest with wording stuff (hell I'm not!) so that others understand but I think it might help if we draw a line under all that's gone before & if you start from the beginning with a "bullet point" kind of list going from how long the tractor sat, how long it may have been uncovered, if the exhaust might have ever been open, then the process of getting it up & running (what fluids were empty/what fluids you changed/what you didn't/engine stuck or not and the like) and how we got to the point of the oil being full of antifreeze including any other work done in between getting it running and now.
One thing I will say is, if your grandpa drained the fluids before storage then it's possible he was running straight water & not antifreeze (he'd have drained it to save freezing the block) and on that basis it may well have rotted a freeze plug from the inside. Whether we "go from the top" or not though, the logical next step I'd suggest remains the same in that we pressure test & verify where the leak is coming from. Fingers crossed for you it's as simple as a freeze plug & not a crack in the block.
Edited by ekjdm14 - 28 Oct 2024 at 11:51am
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 11:51am |
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the easiest way to explain what has been done is to have you read the links i posted
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ekjdm14
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 11:52am |
Yep, I'm on that soon as I get a chance ;)
Really crossing my fingers for a rotten freeze plug here!
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ekjdm14
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 12:04pm |
Just started reading through & from that I believe the oil pan was off & the bolts missing when you got started on the machine correct?
In that case I'd have to presume grandpa parked it because he was having the issue you've now uncovered, and perhaps he had even pressure tested it & determined the cause.
Either way I think from that, we're likely looking at a pre-existing fault.
Also from further reading, you've done a hell of a lot to this tractor & seems like you're learning as you go. Good stuff, keep after it! you'll get it in the end.
Edited by ekjdm14 - 28 Oct 2024 at 12:07pm
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 12:06pm |
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i was told he parked it because the final drive went out. it did
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 12:10pm |
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I do know that the valve cover was removed sometime because the gasket has rtv
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ekjdm14
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 12:14pm |
I'm only up to the part after the fair so far, where you found a hole in one of the final drive pans. Was that rotted out or had parts blown through it? I'm guessing the former since you were able to pull-start the tractor previously?
Either way, reading this is getting me in trouble with the Mrs now so going to have to break off and help with cleaning up for a while! Good stuff so far though, keep at her!
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 1:28pm |
hunter321 wrote:
the easiest way to explain what has been done is to have you read the links i posted |
So you want us to go back and read a 13 page thread?  Plus the google docs?
The easiest way to get help is to be cooperative and just tell us the pertinent information. I do remember attempting to help you on some electrical issues, and as I recall it was just as difficult getting you to give good feedback then.
Best of luck to you on your project, you're gonna need it.
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 3:20pm |
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I attempted to do the pressure test but I found that I need a new thermostat housing gasket.
So I made it.
Will tast again later
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 6:08pm |
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Just a little operational advice: Every time you use a farm tractor that has been sitting overnite or longer, you should check the engine oil level and the radiator coolant level. Not only checking the oil level, but paying attention to the CONDITION of the oil on the dipstick. Your coolant was going down. You were adding coolant to keep the radiator full. But, you weren't checking the engine oil and it appears that's where it was going. The dipstick would have shown you were gaining in the oil pan and if operated wouldn't have even looked like motor oil, tipping you off there was something wrong. Coolant in engine oil is very bad for main/rod and camshaft bearings. Gotta figure out where the coolant leak is before using it any more.
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 7:05pm |
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The test showed it to be leaking around the middle 2 cylinders.
Because this is a farm tractor is there some sealer like head gasket or block sealer I can use and keep a eye on the oil
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 7:14pm |
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If it is leaking in the center of the block, on both sides of the center main bearing webbing, I'd say the block is cracked. There might be something that could seal it up but I don't know what it would be. Remember, antifreeze leaks even easier than water as the molecules are smaller.
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 7:18pm |
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It's not leaking from the block. It's coming from the side of the cylinder sleve
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 7:22pm |
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The outSIDE?? or the INSIDE of the sleeve?? There is a huge difference. The outSIDE of the sleeve would be sleeve Orings. The inSIDE could be the head gasket.
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 7:32pm |
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Outside.
I don't want to pull the cylinder sleeve.
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 7:58pm |
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I'm going to try dike sealer
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WF owner
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 7:59pm |
I don't mean to tell you I told you so, but you saved yourself replacing a head gasket that wasn't the problem.
You might not want to pull the sleeve, but you might not have a choice if you want to save the engine. When you get the sleeve out, you will know immediately if it's a bad O ring. You can try stop leak, but leaking O rings on a sleeve are not that hard (or costly) to replace.
Before you do anymore, get yourself an Allis Chalmers service manual (not IT) and follow the directions.
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 8:02pm |
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Try a product called irontite sealer. You add it to the coolant. Can not hurt anything. Only thing I have ever seen that may help.
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hunter321
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Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 8:42pm |
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I'll let you know how the sealer works
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 29 Oct 2024 at 7:26am |
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You are young. Nothing wrong with that but I'll tell you that taking shortcuts don't get you where you want to end up.
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hunter321
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 1:16pm |
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I have been running the sealer for a day and the leak is gone
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DrAllis
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 4:10pm |
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Don't get so convinced that you quit checking the engine oil and radiator coolant levels. After sitting overnite (or a few days) on the level, loosen the engine oil drain plug to the last thread and gently let some oil leak out. If there is ANY coolant leaking into the oil from above, it will be right there on the bottom.
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hunter321
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 7:25pm |
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Ok
I plan on testing some more tomorrow. Once I'm sure that the problem is fixed I will change the oil again
Edited by hunter321 - 02 Nov 2024 at 7:27pm
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hunter321
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 7:55pm |
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I turned the tractor off and now it won't restart. It sounds like a dead battery but the charger says it's fully charged.
The engine is not seized because I can turn it by hand with the crank.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 10:40pm |
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Make sure you can turn it over by hand at least TWO full turns.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 10:42pm |
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.....because it could have coolant in the cylinder stopping it from turning.
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