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allis chalmers d14 wiring

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allis chalmer d14 View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Nov 2011
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    Posted: 11 Nov 2011 at 3:29pm
does anyone know how the wiring supposed to be hooked up with an alternator or have a wiring diagram they can post a picture of or were to find one.
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John Sealey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John Sealey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 5:10am
Bump. Yes I'm interested too. Mine has an alternator and there is a diode spliced in. I was wondering what that was for.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allis chalmer d14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 6:29am
what does it mean when someone says bump
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John Sealey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 7:35am
It bumps the message back up the list. If a post does not get a reply right away on a busy forum it soon gets pushed of the first page and may not get a reply unless somebody with an interest reads more than the first page of new posts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 9:50am
No D14s were ever sold new with an alternator, so you will not find a wiring diagram showing how it hooks up.  However, some people here could tell you how it is supposed to be done.  Both of mine have generators on them.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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allis chalmer d14 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allis chalmer d14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 2:20pm
the man i bought mine from has cut and spliced the wires and all the wires are hooked every where the gauges are on the d14 and my battery is not charging

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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 3:58pm
First item: Are there one, two, or three wires running to your alternator?
 
There should be a main connection at your alternator.  It will be labeled "BAT" or possibly "B".  Read the voltage there.  It should be reading whatever your battery reads (12.4 with a fully charged battery) with the engine turned off. If it reads nothing, check wiring between this post and the battery.  Check your ammeter too.  This line runs through your ammeter.  If you read battery voltage at this point, start the engine.  The voltage should jump to somewhere between 13.8 and 14.5 volts. If your alternator only has one wire connected, the problem is your alternator.  If your alternator has three wires connected, check the voltage at the other two wires.  If they ready battery voltage or more, again the alternator is bad. If either reads zero, trace the wires back. Sometimes with an alternator conversion they use a light bulb as a charge indicator. If this bulb is burned out, the alternator excite voltage may never make it to the alternator.
 
Go back and make these checks.  Also tell us more about what you find as far as your alternator configurations are concerned.  Last, is this a gas or a diesel? It makes a difference as far as wiring is concerned.
 
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 6:34pm
We  offer a complete 12V conversion wiring system for the D14 equipped with an Alternator. Drop us a line if interested....
Steve@B&B
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote norm[ind] Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 6:53pm
  most alternators are a 1 wire hook up on most old tractors
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 7:22pm
On the 10SI Delco, terminal 2 goes directly to the battery, terminal 1 goes to the ign switch. The diode is needed on a gas engine so the alt doesn't backfeed the ign system when the switch is turned off.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allis chalmer d14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2011 at 9:27pm
okay thank you for the information that yall have gave me and it is a gas motor were try that next week
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John Sealey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 7:01am
Thanks Brian I was wondering what that diode was for. Mine is a gas D14 with a one wire alternator. Could it be hooked up so that the ignition switch opens the charge circuit instead of the diode. The diode looks like a failure waiting to happen.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 8:25am
Originally posted by John Sealey John Sealey wrote:

Thanks Brian I was wondering what that diode was for. Mine is a gas D14 with a one wire alternator. Could it be hooked up so that the ignition switch opens the charge circuit instead of the diode. The diode looks like a failure waiting to happen.
 
If your alternator is a one wire you don't need a diode at all. The diode is there when the ignition switch is controlling the alterator and the ignition to keep the alterator from back feeding to the coil. On a one wire alterator the alterator is controlled by RPM's of the alternator, when you start the tractor you may need to rev it up a little before the alterator works Usually around 1200 engine RPM, then you can idle it back down if you want to and it will Keep charging till the alternator stops turning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 11:49am
Three issues to be aware of with a one-wire alternator:
 
1. They tend to "leak back" a little more than a 3-wire alternator. This hurts nothing if you start your tractor every few weeks and let it run to recharge the battery.
 
2. Usually you need to rev the engine at first to make the alternator start charging,  Again, no problem if you know your alternator has this issue.
 
3. They are much more pricey.  It's hard to go to a junkyard and pull a one-wire and pay $29 for it.  It is easy to pull a Delco CS-130 3-wire used and pay $29 for it.
 
A one-wire is much easier to install if you don't really know your way around charging systems. I'm very familiar with charging systems and can install a 3-wire without even thinking about how I'm doing it. Stick with the alternator that best suits your abilities. Other people's labor costs usually tends to be the most expensive part of the proposition.
 
Edit to add: If space is an issue, go to a junkyard and pull an old Toyota or Datsun alternator. They are usually very small.  They may only put out 30 amps, but that's better than most old generators could ever do.
 
 
 
 


Edited by DougS - 13 Nov 2011 at 11:52am
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allis chalmer d14 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allis chalmer d14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 3:20pm
okay good information mine is a 3 wire hook up but there are three wires hooked together and one goes to the alternator then one goes to a pull switch on the dash and the other one goes to the key switch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 3:31pm
One wire goes to the battery, through the ammeter. A second wire, called the 'sense' goes to a connection near the battery.  Usually at the main battery cable at the starter.  Sometimes this wire will be jumped directly to the alternator BAT terminal. The third wire is for the exciter.  Sometimes it is labeled "I" (ignition) especially on Japanese alternators. This wire usually goes to the ignition switch.  This wire needs a diode or light bulb installed in series with it.  The purpose of this is to keep the current from back feeding once the alternator is producing a voltage. If it were to back feed, it would keep your ignition hot, thus keeping the engine from shutting off. Most of the time a light bulb is enough to drop the exciter voltage from feeding the ignition. A diode will ensure that it does not back feed.  Even with a diode, I prefer to have a light bulb in this circuit.  The bulb acts as a current limiter in case something should short in the wiring or the alternator.
 
BTW, a diode must be installed correctly. The band marking must face toward the alternator.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 4:00pm
If you are using a Delco alternator they sell a plug with the diode already installed in it so you don't have to worry which way it is installed. The one I bought from a local starter rebuild shop cost me $10.00 and you just unpluged the white plug and plug it into this adapter and the adapter to the alterator. I've also seen some where (I think it was from some one on here) was just the white plug with the diode in place and long enough wires to run to where they need to go. I didn't get the cost on that one but if it was here that I saw it they should pipe up soon.
1969 190XT series 3
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allis chalmer d14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 6:12pm
okay thank yall all for the information dont know much on ac mainly help work on John Deere  know a little bit more on them than i do on the allis chalmers
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