Allis C Restoration How Much Trouble am I in?

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I’m in the process of restoring a 1941 Allis C.  She belonged to my father-in-law, and when he passed away a year ago, my mother-in-law asked me if I wanted it to
restore.  How could I pass that up?  Here’s what she looked like when she followed
me home over 4^th of July.:
I don’t have a lot of experience in rebuilding engines.  My father-in-law walked me through rebuilding a WD about 10 years ago, but I’ve not done a lot since then.  I’ve begun tearing the C down.  Discovered the motor was stuck, so I spent today getting that freed up. I ended up pushing the pistons on up through the top to get them free.  The #2 cylinder sleeve came with it when I knocked it free. 
Here’s what she looks like now:
Between the #2 and #3 cylinder is the standard crack in the block.  Does this look any worse than normal?  Can the block be salvaged or should I punt and start over at this point?
Other fun facts that might be important:  when I drained the oil pan, I got about a
minute of pure water when I undid the plug.  Then straight oil, about 4 quarts. Then, later, when I opened the block drain I got virtually pure anti-freeze, over a gallon.  The tractor was parked under an apple tree for about 8 years, although “it was running when
he parked it”.  I moved it under cover last October, then brought it home in July.
The crank turns at this point, although it’s not really loose- I have to work at it to turn it.  I’ve got the clutch pedal clamped in, and the transmission is in neutral, so it
should just be the crank turning the flywheel at this point, right?  Should it be looser than what I’m feeling or is that about right?
Where do I go from here? Do I need to replace all the sleeves and/or pistons/ and/or connecting rods?  What should I be looking for to help decide?  As long as I have it torn
down to this point, what else should I think about doing?
I appreciate all the help this board can give me.  Sorry for the length of this- wanted to give as much info as I could.
Thanks in advance!
Boilerpete
P.S.  Hope this pictures come through.  If not, I'll try to post them separately.

Edited by boilerpete - 05 Aug 2012 at 8:13pm

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boilerpete Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Access Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Mooresville, IN Points: 107	Post Options Post Reply Quote boilerpete Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Allis C Restoration How Much Trouble am I in? Posted: 05 Aug 2012 at 8:03pm
	I’m in the process of restoring a 1941 Allis C. She belonged to my father-in-law, and when he passed away a year ago, my mother-in-law asked me if I wanted it to restore. How could I pass that up? Here’s what she looked like when she followed me home over 4^th of July.: I don’t have a lot of experience in rebuilding engines. My father-in-law walked me through rebuilding a WD about 10 years ago, but I’ve not done a lot since then. I’ve begun tearing the C down. Discovered the motor was stuck, so I spent today getting that freed up. I ended up pushing the pistons on up through the top to get them free. The #2 cylinder sleeve came with it when I knocked it free. Here’s what she looks like now: Between the #2 and #3 cylinder is the standard crack in the block. Does this look any worse than normal? Can the block be salvaged or should I punt and start over at this point? Other fun facts that might be important: when I drained the oil pan, I got about a minute of pure water when I undid the plug. Then straight oil, about 4 quarts. Then, later, when I opened the block drain I got virtually pure anti-freeze, over a gallon. The tractor was parked under an apple tree for about 8 years, although “it was running when he parked it”. I moved it under cover last October, then brought it home in July. The crank turns at this point, although it’s not really loose- I have to work at it to turn it. I’ve got the clutch pedal clamped in, and the transmission is in neutral, so it should just be the crank turning the flywheel at this point, right? Should it be looser than what I’m feeling or is that about right? Where do I go from here? Do I need to replace all the sleeves and/or pistons/ and/or connecting rods? What should I be looking for to help decide? As long as I have it torn down to this point, what else should I think about doing? I appreciate all the help this board can give me. Sorry for the length of this- wanted to give as much info as I could. Thanks in advance! Boilerpete P.S. Hope this pictures come through. If not, I'll try to post them separately. Edited by boilerpete - 05 Aug 2012 at 8:13pm

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Ted in NE-OH Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Austinburg OH Points: 1703	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ted in NE-OH Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Aug 2012 at 8:24pm
	You have a lot to do. With water in the oil it could be O rings on cylinders you'll be replacing those. It could be head gasket, you'll be replacing that. It could freeze plugs in top of head check those carefully or replace. It could be rain down the stack , if so a cylinder liner would be rusty. I am sure you will get lots of replies and help.
	CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914

Larry in Ill Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Location: Central ILL Points: 129	Post Options Post Reply Quote Larry in Ill Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Aug 2012 at 8:43pm
	Make sure that engine surface is plain having the crack! I have one that had a recent "rebuild" and before putting on a third head gasket, my neighbor noticed the surface sunk a bit in the middle. Had it plained and have never had problems. Edited by Larry in Ill - 05 Aug 2012 at 8:43pm

Jacob (WI,ND) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jacob (WI,ND) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Aug 2012 at 8:54pm
	Ted already covered the first things to look at. Keep tearing things down until you have a bare block and go from there, It seems like a big job, but starting at the beginning with a clean block (get it cooked out) is the easiest in the long run. You are on the right track. It looks like you have a nice clean tractor to start with, not all covered in grease and dirt like they usually are. And it looks fairly complete from what I can see, so that will make things easier (less parts hunting). Just don't be in a hurry and you'll get it. Check out Tom's site: (member here) http://home.comcast.net/~old_allis/ I always get a bit of ambition when I look through how good of a job he does! You will probably answer some of your questions there too.
	Jacob Swanson 1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45

GregLawlerMinn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lawler, Mn Points: 1226	Post Options Post Reply Quote GregLawlerMinn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Aug 2012 at 9:18pm
	How much you do depends on how the tractor is going to be used; and the status of your pocket book. A thourogh engine overhaul will cost approx $1200; depending on machine shop you use and what all needs to be replaced. I tend to make my rehabs mechanically sound before I start on the cosmetics. The crack in the top web is on the iffy side since it is open and appears to have one side lower than the other. It should seal up with a new sleeve and head gasket and be just fine; altho you could fill it in with JB weld to be on the safe side. That said; you need to check the top of the block for flatness using a good straight edge; front to back and several side to sides. If you have more than a few thousanths gap, plan on having the top of the block remilled flat. I would definately have the block tanked to clean it up and remove all the sludge and gunk and replace all the sleeves/pistons (and thoroghly clean the O-ring sealing surface--a dremel with small wire wheels works well), that way you can be comfortable that the O-rings on the sleeves are good. You should also thoroghly check the crank and main journals as well as the valve lifters, camshaft and cam bearings. You may be lucky and not need any maching work on the crank; however, you don't know until after they have been miked. If you need to have the crank machined, consider having the rods rebored to accept new bearings W/O the shims, you can also have the mains lined bored to accept bearings without the shimming. Cam bushings are relatively inexpensive and I replace them whenever I open up an engine. Best to take the head into a good shop and have them check it out (including the springs, guides, valves, flatness, and for any leaks). I also replace the pilot bushing with a pilot bearing and plug up the "seepage" hole in the back of the crank.
	What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC