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HoughMade 
Orange Level
Joined: 22 Sep 2017
Location: Valparaiso, IN
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 Topic: Allis B- Do I really need to fill the tires?
Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 11:44am |
I have a 1951 B. It currently has CaCl2 in the rear tires. I use it for lawn mowing with a Woods L59 and it will occaisionally pull a wagon for light work and hayrides. The right rear tire is leaking and so I will have to dismount it to chase down the leak. I am thinking of draining both and not refilling.
Given what I use this tractor for, is there any reason to put ballast in the tires?
Also, what is the best way to drain them without much in the way of special equipment.
Thanks!
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1951 B
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
Points: 2490
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Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 11:47am |
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Nope. You'll be better off mowing with a lighter tractor anyway. It would be good to get that CaCl out soon, lest it eat the rim away. Agricultural tire stores have the equipment to pump it out. They'd be able to keep or dispose of the calcium too.
Edited by DougS - 30 Jul 2018 at 11:49am
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littlemarv
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Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1829
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Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 11:52am |
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I am interested in this topic as well. I am going to take the fluid out of my CA tires. I have two 35 gallon plastic barrels to put it in. Not sure if a guy can sell it for a few bucks, or if you can't give it away. I was just going to jack the tractor up, put the valve stem on top, take the core out, slip a piece of hose on the stem, and turn the tire down to drain it. Turn it back up every so often to let the air back in. Drain it into a 5 gallon bucket, then dump that in the barrel. I checked online and it says an 11.2X24 tire should hold 24 gallons.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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mdm1
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Onalaska, WI
Points: 2671
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Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 11:52am |
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I mow with a C and took the weight out. If you are on pretty level ground you should be OK. I got some kind of burb valve to drain mine. At least I think that is what I did. Do a Google search. The CaCl is pretty caustic so be careful.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Bill Long
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Points: 4556
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Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 12:00pm |
For some reason whenever tire changing with calcium chloride came to our shop I got it. I have been sprayed I don't know how many times. That is the toughest stuff to get off your body. Anyway, we used a bronze pump to move it to a copper barrel we got at a dealer auction. At our time we poured it out course that was then 30's - late 50's. As to weight if you are mowing it would be better. I remember taking the four tractor tires off a new D-10 and replacing them with turf tires and added no fluid. They came through new with fluid in all tires. We jury rigged to mount five toro lawn mowers on it. Worked GREAT! Take good care of my favorite. The B is a real NEAT Tractor once you get on it.
Good Luck! Bill Long
Edited by Bill Long - 30 Jul 2018 at 12:16pm
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john(MI)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
Points: 9262
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Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 1:50pm |
I did some 28" tires a year or so ago. I took out the core, put a small plastic hose on the valve stem and laid them over with the valve stem underneath. I drained them all in the same area. The grass is a little thin in that area now, but it's coming back. I live on a dirt road. They grade it and then spray it with calcium something, I guess if it doesn't hurt anything on the road it won't be a problem in the yard!
Take off the tires and tubes. Clean up the rims or get new, depending on the condition. I use a side grinder to clean up mine as much as possible and the spray them down with P.O.R. Get new tubes!
Easiest way to break the bead that I have found is to back a tractor up to the tire, then use a utility jack next to the rim to jack down and break it. I never did one that small, so it may be easier. Get new tubes!
Did I mention, Get new Tubes!
You will probably be fine with empty tires as long as you are on flatter ground when pulling something. If you end up needing weight, put wheel weight on it.
Edited by john(MI) - 30 Jul 2018 at 1:52pm
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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HoughMade
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Joined: 22 Sep 2017
Location: Valparaiso, IN
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Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 1:52pm |
I have a 100+ yard long gravel driveway, so....
And I wonder if I should get new tubes.
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1951 B
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 9:05pm |
You should be fine without the calcium. It works on the drive. My weeds are thriving on that stuff. Yes new tubes are usually required. I have repaired 6 rims for WD's. I recommend having the wheels sand blasted if you have the time and can afford it. That helps show how good or bad the rims are, and where the patches need to be applied. 1/8 inch thick new steel is what I used for the last rims, to repair rusted areas. If you can fine a cheap rusted out donor rim, it can yield the patches with the same contours. Saves a bunch of fab work. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DanC911
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Joined: 22 Jul 2014
Location: CT, USA
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Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 9:57pm |
Get one of these from Amazon for about $10.00:
Then get an inexpensive transfer pump (Harbor Freight) and a couple of pieces of garden hose. I pumped mine into a plastic garbage can then used it as dust control.
Edited by DanC911 - 30 Jul 2018 at 10:00pm
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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HD6GTOM
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
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Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 10:04pm |
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I used to own a tire shop that did many farm tires. If you have 1 around there, call them. They might come pump it out if you let them have it. I have done that many times. As stated get some new tubes from a shop that does farm tires. You do not want to buy a tube that has layd on a shelf for a long time. They can develop cracks where they are folded.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 4:51am |
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Calcium chloride is the exact same stuff, they put on roads to melt ice. If you dump it all in one spot, on your driveway, you will have a soft spot, there, for years. best bet is to spray or pour it over a large area. You can dilute it, too. Keep it away from concrete...
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BEK
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Joined: 05 Nov 2017
Location: Wilmington, NC
Points: 216
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Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 7:22am |
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Just air in my 1950 B tires. My rear rims were rusted out from previous leaks and calcium. I bolted on new rims, and replaced the tires and tubes. No ballast. Only filled with air.
No problems with stability. If I need some extra traction I let some air out lowering the tire pressure. Maybe it's just me, but having a lighter tractor makes it a lot easier to trailer and transport.
Good luck with yours.
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HoughMade
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Joined: 22 Sep 2017
Location: Valparaiso, IN
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Posted: 02 Aug 2018 at 11:10am |
I have the tire and tube off the rim and the rim doesn't look bad at all. Apparently the leak just developed (which I suspected given they held air from October until last week). There is some very light rust, but a wire brush, rust converter and some paint will fix that up.
Next question- what color are the clamps and bolts supposed to be. Mine are orange now, but it's been painted at least twice.
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1951 B
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BEK
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Location: Wilmington, NC
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Posted: 02 Aug 2018 at 11:27am |
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Persian Orange 1, if you want to keep an original appearance.
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HoughMade
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Joined: 22 Sep 2017
Location: Valparaiso, IN
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Posted: 02 Aug 2018 at 11:40am |
 BEK wrote:
Persian Orange 1, if you want to keep an original appearance.
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I do and thanks. I've see a lot of solver out there and I suspected that people were improving over original, but I didn't know for sure.
Thanks.
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1951 B
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Gale Hawkins
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Joined: 24 Aug 2018
Location: MURRAY KY
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Posted: 25 Aug 2018 at 12:42am |
I just picked up a 1948 B and the rims at where the tires mount is painted silver. Is that not factory?
I hope to have it at the Paducah KY show in a few weeks. I plan to mow it the L59 deck so it will be a 70 year old working tractor.
The seller had ran Liquid Glass stop leak in the crankcase. Sadly the coolant leak was due to wet sleeve O-ring failure. We are going back with all new bearings in the engine.
It has four new tires and an OK paint job at some point in the past so I bought it since it is very much like Dad's that I played on at the age of 3 and started driving at the age of 5 when had was picking corn by hand and got tired of getting off and on the tractor. :)
I do see several B photos where the rear wheel outer rim is silver and the front wheel is solid orange.
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Jhebel
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Joined: 21 Oct 2015
Location: York Co, PA
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Posted: 25 Aug 2018 at 8:09am |
Gale Hawkins wrote:
I just picked up a 1948 B and the rims at where the tires mount is painted silver. Is that not factory?
I hope to have it at the Paducah KY show in a few weeks. I plan to mow it the L59 deck so it will be a 70 year old working tractor.
The seller had ran Liquid Glass stop leak in the crankcase. Sadly the coolant leak was due to wet sleeve O-ring failure. We are going back with all new bearings in the engine.
It has four new tires and an OK paint job at some point in the past so I bought it since it is very much like Dad's that I played on at the age of 3 and started driving at the age of 5 when had was picking corn by hand and got tired of getting off and on the tractor. :)
I do see several B photos where the rear wheel outer rim is silver and the front wheel is solid orange. |
The rear rims on the old b/c tractors were galvanized, and the front rims were painted orange. I used silver metallic paint to paint the rear rims on my C. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong, but I believe that the whole tractor was assembled, then everything was painted over in orange - plugs, wires, mag, manifold, etc., though you see a lot of people with these items different colors when they're restored. There is a video around somewhere showing this.
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