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The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Allis 20-35 longfender parts reproduction |
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Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248 |
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So my buddy Kyle and I are going to be looking into having
some parts reproduced over the winter for Allis Chalmers 20-35 longfenders. |
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8457 |
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I'd like to have a 20-35, but the fact that parts are so scare is what kinda turns me away (But Creston, what about a Super 100? They're kinda rare.) If parts were more plentiful (like B/C/WC, etc. parts) I'd want one!
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Fred in Pa ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Hanover Pa. Points: 9210 |
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If u get a 1927 and up 20 -35 Shortfender ,they are not hard to find parts for as hard as the early Longfender built up to 1926. |
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He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
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Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248 |
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Fred is right Creston, any shortfender 20-35 part is fairly easy to find. Not as easy as B or WC parts by comparison, but still pretty easy, you just need to network and talk to the right people.
Longfender 20-35 parts are however not nearly as easy to locate. Hence why we are looking into reproducing some of the harder to find parts. Even still, having to reproduce parts is a lot of the fun of a project of this scale! You have to be looking for a good challenge with the old AC's! ![]() Anyone else looking for Longfender parts?
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
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Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248 |
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My original air washer as found.
It is the sight glass tube style of air washer, not the two round sight ports style. I have been asked which style I have. I have all the bracketry that mounts it to the side of the tractor as well. If there is interest, I will reproduce this all as a package. let me know what you are interested in. I was asked if we are going to reproduce the cast S tube that goes from the carb to the air washer. Again, we can if there is enough interest, let me know. Pic of mine as fond (don't worry, I have the broken off ears for this that will be fixed) Email or message me with your interests, thanks!
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8457 |
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Air washer...is that like a oil bath filter?
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Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248 |
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Sort of, but it uses water instead of oil. They didn't work very well I am told, so many were changed over the years. But to be an original tractor, you need one. Most people now a days convert the housing to use a modern paper air filter instead of water, which is our plan. It is done internally, so they still look original from the outside of the air washer.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8457 |
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Ewww....water used to clean air going into an engine? That spells bad.
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Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248 |
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Here are some pics of the original oil pressure gauge that came with my 20-35 longfenders from Canada. Phil had started restoring it.
I finally got a few seconds to take it apart to see what is all involved in reproducing these if we get enough interest. So far I have had a couple of people let me know they are interested. They are really quite simple. I was expecting a seal of some sort in there, but it is just the precision machining between the plunger and housing to keep the oil from getting up into the top gauge part I guess? The face should have numbers on it. If we reproduce them this winter we will have this done correctly as well. Here is a pic of an original one a friend has. Let me know if you are interested and I will put you on my list. Thanks! |
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
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Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248 |
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
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Gary(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Location: WI Points: 1005 |
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We might have an extra arm Would have to talk to my brother maybe he will chime in I know we need an air cleaner
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Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248 |
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Hi all!
Just an update on our plans to reproduce parts. I have not forgotten about these things, I just did not get as much done this winter as I hopped to. My focus at this point has been on the oil pressure gauge reproduction and the cast throttle quadrant lever. After talking with the foundry in Rice Lake, WI I have some BALLPARK numbers to give you. These are only ballpark numbers, so they might change once actually done, please keep that in mind! The Quadrant lever will be about 30$ to get the raw casting done per piece. Then they will have to be machined and the plunger and spring under the plunger made, etc... So by the time that is all said and done we are probably looking at 100$ a piece? I will probably be making about 12 of these unless I hear otherwise from people. I have had a few people interested. Contact me if you are needing one of these. The Oil pressure gauge will be in that 40$ range to get a raw casting done. There will be machining involved on the casting, as well as to make the internal parts. I intend to make this a FUNCTIONING oil pressure gauge, so getting the engineering correct so it registers accurately on the gauge will be a bit tricky. I have a guy getting me a estimate to reproduce the gauge face. Once I have that number I will share, but as of now I don't even want to throw a completed number out there. They are not going to be cheap! Several hundred dollars is not out of the question? Again, I will probably make about 12 of these, as I have had a few people interested, and I need a couple for myself. If interested, please contact me and I will put you on my list. The S pipe that goes from the carb to the air washer I have not had much interest in to this point. That part will need a core box made to do the hollow portion of the tube. I will probably tackle making the core box myself, as I am a woodworker by trade, but I need to meet with the foundry to see exactly what they need/want. I do not know when that will happen as I am out here in ND and don't make it back home to WI very regularly. But once the core box is made (I'll have to add some cost for my time to make it) the raw casting cost will be in that 90$ range per piece. If interested in this, contact me. As of now, this is down on the list as there has been very little interest in them so far. The air washers are still on my radar, as there has been interest in them. They are obviously very complicated though, with many parts to be individually produced and machined. The raw intake cast part is in the 90$ range. The raw bottom housing casting is in the 150$ range. The housing lid is in the 85$ range. The raw cast mounting bracket 30$ range. The funnel and cap, sight glass parts, plugs, etc.. are each another added cost. So you get the idea that just the raw castings alone will be in the 500$ range for an entire assembly. I got a ballpark price for the 1/4" steel bent mounting bracket to get made locally at about 120$ each. Then you add all the cast parts machining costs, glass sight tube and seals, bail clip for funnel, and figuring how to incorporate a modern paper filter into the original housing, and it gets expensive fast. I am not giving a total yet of what this project might cost, but as you can see, 1,000$ goes quick with this kind of involved project. Those that are interested, contact me, as I probably won't be making a bunch extras of these, because that would be a big investment on my behalf. I may only make what is requested, so if interested, get on my list ASAP please. As for the front wheels for 20-35 longfenders, I have had NO ONE come to me interested in getting these reproduced. So unless people speak up, that option will get put on the way back burner. I need a set for myself, but I may just wait to see if an original set can be located. I did get some numbers just to see what $ would be involved in such an endeavor. To get the hub cast and machined I have not checked on. But to get the rim rolled and welded together and the the spokes made and welded into there "T" shape would be about 350$ PER WHEEL. Then the cost of drilling everything out and hot riveting it all together would have to be added. So a pair of new wheels would be WELL over 1,000$. If there is anyone interested in having this done, like I keep saying, contact me please. Lastly, I have acquired a fan hub pivoting arm from a friend, I just need to meet up with him at some point to get it. There has been no interest in having these produced so far, so I will probably just make the couple that I need for my projects. If there is interest, you know the drill, contact me please. As of now I have no completion date in mind for these projects, it will happen when it happens. This is just a hobby for me, so I work on it when I have time. My Email is in my profile. Thanks! ![]() |
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
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Jacob (WI,ND) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kenmare, ND Points: 1248 |
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I should add, I am looking at at getting the cast part that goes under the cap of the engine breather for a longfender 20-35 made as well, as I am missing one of these.
(anyone by chance have an extra they would part with?) Here is the part: ![]() ![]() They would be about 30$ to have cast. Does anyone else need one of these? It goes into the assembly like this from what I can figure out: ![]() ![]() I am confused though, the parts book calls for another piece besides what I have in my pics. E-904 Breather Valve Seat. Cast Iron, 12 oz. Used with E-906 Elbow and E-907 Pipe. So, you have that above mystery part that I am missing? then E-905 Breather Cap 3 3/16" O.D. Pressed Steel E-906 Breather Elbow. Use 1 1/2" pipe plug; 1 E-909. Cast Iron. E-907 Breather Pipe. No. 16 gauge 2 1/2" O.D. x 15" long. Steel tubing. E-908 Breather cap support. used with E-906 Elbow and E-907 Pipe. Cast Iron. (I assume this is the above piece I am missing and looking to have re cast?) E-909 Breather pipe Stud. 3/8" x 21 1/8" long. Use 1 3/8" Square face nut; 1 3/8" lock washer. and 2 E-910 breather screens. 2 1/4" O.D. galvanized wire. use 1 1/2 oz horse hair to fill pipe. (still trying to figure out what to use for a filter in place of the original horse hair. piece of foam?) So what am I missing here? What is the E-904 part ??? |
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45 |
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Alberta Phil ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3937 |
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