Allis 180 3 point lift cylinder removal

I've got an Allis 180 with both 3 point lift cylinders leaking copious amounts of fluid. I have read on the forum about the process to get the cylinders off but I have one issue. My tractor has a cab and it is impossible to work on the front pins from the top side. And on the left side, I can't even access the front window in the casing to work from that direction unless I remove the battery box and all that goes with that. I have read the seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder from the tractor but you have to work off a clip down the oil inlet hole. I can get the elbow removed but won't be able to see down the hole to see what I am doing. Any suggestions? Can the clip removal and replacement be done blind by someone never having done it?

That is the original cylinder to the tractor.  I do not have a 100 series tractor with a cab, but I did the cylinders on my 185 last winter and it was an easy job to remove the battery box.  That gave a lot more room to access the cylinder pin.  I needed that space.  The front pins were rusted solid on both sides.  Was a hell of a job getting those things loosened up.

The cylinder in that picture is the old design that takes a spanner wrench to remove the nut on the outside and once pulled apart, the nut on the inside. Loctite inside nut or it will work loose.

Yup and it may take a torch to loosen the Loctite on the threads.

V- packing stack.  Same as most all series 4 D-17's or 190XT's.

Use plenty of grease on the new packing and try to screw it back into the barrel to minimize damage to the new V-packing.

I have taken the cylinder bracket off with the cylinder by cutting off the head of the bolt that's behind the pin and then use a press to remove the stuck pin, the rest of the cut bolt can then be removed with vise grips.

I hear ya Doug. I am working on getting the left cylinder off now. Loosened the battery box and was able to lift it enough to access the opening in front of the pin. Having a cab on this one really hinders access and makes getting the battery box completely out almost impossible. The pin on the right side came out using the chisel method described in other posts. Hoping the left one does the same. The seal kit costs roughly $50 per side and an elcheapo adjustable spanner is about $30 off Amazon. Supposedly need two of those. So that's $160 for everything. We have a cylinder rebuilder here in town (not Agco). I think I'll check with them and the nearest Agco for a quote.

Got the left one off. I appreciate my Allis but not sure what someone was smoking when they dreamed up that design for anchoring the cylinder!

I Rebuilt Those Right On The Tractor Don't Have To Pull Front Pin

The cab makes it difficult to do anything "on the tractor" in that region. You just can't get in there to see what you are doing. Taking the wheels off would probably help. Pick your poison I guess!

Scrutinize the seal area closely on the barrel when you get them apart as they do not tolerate any material loss/pitting well.

Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to let the local hydraulics shop tackle them. i called the AGCO dealer and they said they don't do them and they bring theirs to the same local shop, lol. I just have the feeling that the cheapo adjustable spanner is going to basically be worthless on these. And If I spend the money on a decnt one (actually 2 needed) I might as well just let the shop do it. My only fear is that I'm going to get the old "these need a lot of work (read money)" story, lol.

Update, according to the shop the cylinders came apart relatively easy. Cylinder bores were in good shape and did not require honing. Total for 2 cylinders came in at $240. Got them installed and am now leak free (at least at that one specific area, lol).