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ALLIS 175 VALVES

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THEFOX View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 2:00pm
I posed this problem before a while back but couldn't find it again. So here it is again. When I first started looking at this engine it had four bent push rods. This happened after the head was replaced due to a supposed water leak on the head. No leak was found after testing the head so it was put back on. The valves were re done and new seats installed by the looks of them. Some valves are longer than others by about 1/16". So we put the rocker arm assy back on and backed off the adjusting screws all the way and when we turn the crank over by hand some of the are compressed to the max! and if turned any further it bends the push rods! What is going on here? Wrong valve springs too many coils? The pistons come to the top of the liner and the head is flat ( no compression chamber ) so how can the valves open on exhaust if there is no space there? By the way it's a 226 engine.
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Allis dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 2:43pm
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 4:50pm
If you're opening the valves to the point of coil bind (stacked solid) and nothing else was changed, I'd be willing to bet the rocker shaft was installed with the short side between the shaft and the head. Take the rocker shaft off and turn the pedestals so the long side is between the shaft and head.

Edited by Brian Jasper co. Ia - 02 Dec 2016 at 4:51pm
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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dgerth View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dgerth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 6:04pm
The Compression Chamber is on top of the piston, So what Brian said is probably the case.
Valves are hitting the pistons, Stems too long, wrong rocker arms? Wrong pushrods?
Just thoughts.
dg
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 9:07pm
On a 175, the piston should not come all the way to top, even with WD pistons.
Have you ever had this motor running or is this a project motor?     MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 9:16pm
After reading your original post, I think you got a short WD head that takes taller Stands. Better go back to shop and get the right head.    MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEFOX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 5:25am
The head measures 3 7/8" thick, what should a head for a 175 measure? Rocker arm pedestals that we have can only be put on one way as the flat base has to go toward the head. The other way around would be way too short and only a small area for the nut to hold them in place.
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THEFOX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEFOX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 5:30am
I got involved in this project after the push rods got bent and he was stumped for a reason why. Yes the piston does not come to the top of the liner I checked again. More checking I recon.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 6:51am
There are a couple of things here that need to be addressed. #1. You say you've just backed off all the rocker arm adjustment screws as far as they would go. If that is the case, you SHOULD have had plenty of valve lash, if you actually used a feeler gauge to readjust the rocker arm clearances. DID YOU USE A FEELER GAUGE TO DO THIS OR NOT?? If there was zero lash at the valves (after loosening all adjustment screws all the way), your machine shop must have installed valves that are too long. Think about it....same tractor....same push rods.....same camshaft......same rocker arms (???). Nothing has changed except the head and/or valves/or springs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 8:22am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

There are a couple of things here that need to be addressed. #1. You say you've just backed off all the rocker arm adjustment screws as far as they would go. If that is the case, you SHOULD have had plenty of valve lash, if you actually used a feeler gauge to readjust the rocker arm clearances. DID YOU USE A FEELER GAUGE TO DO THIS OR NOT?? If there was zero lash at the valves (after loosening all adjustment screws all the way), your machine shop must have installed valves that are too long. Think about it....same tractor....same push rods.....same camshaft......same rocker arms (???). Nothing has changed except the head and/or valves/or springs.

Easy fix for the blind leading the blind is to cut the valve stems off with a body grinder so they fit.  Saves fooling with head bolts and measuring valve lengths.  Also save on staring at the problem time. 

Before the rocks start to fly my advise above is called sarcasm and not to be followed.     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEFOX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 10:02am
Even when the adjusting screws backed all the way off it still bottoms out the springs! Cannot even start adjusting anything. Four new push rods from Stiener the rest are originals. What is the length of the rocker supports supposed to be? Yes I agree nothing else was changed so my buddy says but, I cannot swear to it as I didn't take it apart.
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 10:06am
Each part of an engine has specs and they are not hidden. Look them up!  The only way to know if the part is within spec is to measure it.  None can be measured by the eye. If one or more valves appear to be 1/16" long by the eye it could be 1/8". If something looks to be different, it should be an (Oh Crap) moment and taken apart to compare to the proper spec not compared to other parts.  If one is out of spec they all might be out of spec.

The most important tools in engine rebuilding is the measuring tools.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 10:23am
Originally posted by THEFOX THEFOX wrote:

Even when the adjusting screws backed all the way off it still bottoms out the springs! Cannot even start adjusting anything. Four new push rods from Stiener the rest are originals. What is the length of the rocker supports supposed to be? Yes I agree nothing else was changed so my buddy says but, I cannot swear to it as I didn't take it apart.

And your not going to know until it is taken apart again. No one else will know until it is taken apart. Opinions and guesses will not measure one single thing.

I have made mistakes in rebuilding engines.  The very first thing I did was take it back apart and start checking for the mistake. 

Screwed up at nine PM on a Friday night on my racing engine in the 1960's.  I pulled the engine and took it apart.  I had it back together and in the car corrected with an hour  from the time I had to pull out.  Crap happens to everyone but wondering doesn't fix the problem. Sleeping on it does not help either.

Just the fact mam, just the facts. (from and old TV show  said on every show by Sgt. Joe Friday played by Jack Webb before most here was born)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEFOX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 5:39am
Well, the problem is now solved ! The rebuilder gave us the wrong head ! Part # AM4859 Should be AM4831. Hopefully he still has the one that belongs to us!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 8:40am
Originally posted by THEFOX THEFOX wrote:

Well, the problem is now solved ! The rebuilder gave us the wrong head ! Part # AM4859 Should be AM4831. Hopefully he still has the one that belongs to us!

Great!  Thanks for letting us know.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 4:56pm
Are you serious ?
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THEFOX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEFOX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2016 at 5:25am
Checked with the rebuilder and he say's no way, that's the head that was brought in! So we're stuck!!! How about putting a spacer between the head and the rocker supports? Like an 1/8" thick.Ouch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred in Pa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2016 at 10:16am
Just put the correct rocker shaft stands that go with the short head .
He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2016 at 6:41pm
...I just did some eyeballing with a tape measure on an E combine head(should be the same thing).Has no rocker shaft. 3 7/8 thick(not quite).Top of retainer approx 1 7/8 from spring seat.Top of valve stem approx 2in from spring seat. From rocker stand pad to top of retainer approx 1 1/8. How does that compare to what you have?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2016 at 9:35pm
Yes, the head from E is same as D 17.    MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEFOX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2016 at 2:13pm
Who's got rocker arm supports? None of the catalogs list them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2016 at 7:08pm
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

...I just did some eyeballing with a tape measure on an E combine head(should be the same thing).Has no rocker shaft. 3 7/8 thick(not quite).Top of retainer approx 1 7/8 from spring seat.Top of valve stem approx 2in from spring seat. From rocker stand pad to top of retainer approx 1 1/8. How does that compare to what you have?


how does yours compare?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEFOX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2016 at 2:25pm
I think we'll just put some spacers under the supports and that'll be good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2016 at 8:57pm
okay,but how is it that you don't have the correct stands for the engine?I never did get an answer on comparison measuring.What is really going on there?

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 13 Dec 2016 at 8:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEFOX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2016 at 5:59am
The problem started when the neighbor took the head into the rebuilder to have it checked for cracks. They gave him the wrong head back, according to the casting number it is for a D15! So he goes back a couple of months later and they say NO WAY that happened ! the head fits on the block okay but, is obviously not right because it bends the push rods and the valves are totally compressed bending the push rods. The head is apperently an 1/8" thinner than the correct head. So we have too short rocker arm supports, thus the need for spacers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2016 at 6:55am
If it's actually a D15 head, I don't think anything else would line up. I think they used a different manifold and probably other parts too. The D15 was a fair amount smaller motor cubeswise.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THEFOX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2016 at 7:15am
My mistake, it's a D17  AM4659 CASTING # should be AM 4831 or AM 4472.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2016 at 9:16am
A D17 and tall WD45 head are the same. The only difference is the manifold bolts in a 17 head are 7/16 instead of 3/8's. There something else wrong.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AaronSEIA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2016 at 9:29am
I think it's back to square 1. Was it running before it was taken apart, who did that work, and where did they go with the parts.
AaronSEIA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mrgoodwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2016 at 9:58am
I see two glaring things that
Must be determined, did you receive
"Short" head from the machinist and are the valves the correct length. You have the casting number of you head I'm sure someone here can tell you if it is a short head. If it is then that's one problem since the short head needs long pedistoles. Although I thought the larger bolts on a d17 would make that impossible to bolt up. You need to determine if the valves/springs are correct. If you can see a difference in the valves from one to another I'd say that's an issue, remember valve clearance is measured in thousandths, you should need a mic. to tell the difference. I don't have a book in front of me but installed height should be easy to find and probably distance from tip to keeper grove as well as overall length.

Edited by Mrgoodwrench - 14 Dec 2016 at 10:15am
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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