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air compressor parts, replacements or advice... |
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34181 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 15 Nov 2021 at 2:57am |
Took air compressor apart and found some wear in cylinder wall half way down the bore. What would cause the wear there?
But here was the real problem with the compressor... the reed valves and valve section...are OBSOLETE. Think it is a waste of time to try and fix this unit... or are there repair shops that have parts? No name on the 3 hp compressor unit, but 60 gallon tank says Sanborn Manufacturing Company, dated 1981. Better off just buying a new pump? Or a whole new pump and tank? ![]() Been looking at different compressors on the net, some aren't too expensive and others are big bucks. Is it better to go with a pump rated for 3hp $138 bucks, 115# max, 1080 rpm, 8.8cfm ![]() Or $126 bucks, 160#, 1300rpm, 12 cfm... but does not say at what pressure. ![]() or buy a larger pump that is rated for 5 and put a smaller drive pulley on the motor? Will the pump run cooler? or put on a cheapie two stage for $319 bucks, and not set it for more than 120 or so pounds? ![]() Yea, I know, foreign crap. But what isn't these days. or... NorthStar Air Compressor Pump - 2-Stage, 569cc, 22.9 CFM At Max. PSI Northern Tool Item# 45932$720 bucks, 175# psi, CFM at 90 PSI: 26.2, Max. PSI: 175, 1300 rpm with a 7.5HPmotor. Maybe have to turn it at 700rpm? ![]() Any words or advice on this pressuring subject? Thanks... |
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3755 |
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Another thing to consider is the tank condition. I went through this a few years ago. It was an old Quincy that was very slow to cycle and then developed a leak. I know it is difficult to judge just by looking at it but how was it maintained? Drain condensation regularly? How about usage. Does it keep up with what you do? Now might be the time to upgrade. At the very least get a pump sized similar to what you have. Also be sure the pump will bolt to the existing hole pattern and you may have to rework the air line to the tank. Sorry, just re living what I went through.
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53254 |
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Try surpluscenter.com. I know they used to carry quite a few compressors and parts. As others have said, if the tank's bad, the point is moot...
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33121 |
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Moisture buildup corrosion along with some dirt wear in Cylinder while at rest for a long duration is what caused that marking, been down that road. Remove the largest tank plug and peer inside with whatever can find to inspect, if considerable rust on the bottom shell cap, buy a replacement assembled compressor.
Edited by DMiller - 15 Nov 2021 at 5:11am |
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24336 |
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random thoughts... Sanborn is still in business.... ..so they may have parts but... toss it all into the scrap pile, buy a whole new one, on sale odds are there's a lot of oil in the tank, and rust do NOT reduce the speed below what the MFR says ! You need RPM to spin the flywheel to cool down the cylinders. Slower speed increases the 'refill' time. I 'splurged' about 10 years ago, got a nice vertical 60G tank unit, regained about 2/3 of the old horizontal tank footprint. It'll also outlive me.....sigh.
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5957 |
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Wear in air compressor cylinders is NOT like wear in combustion engines... thermally, they're in an entirely different realm, so suspend any dispositions you might have there. But for reference, a compressor's compression ratio will ultimately determine how high it's max pressure COULD EVER be. A compression ratio of a single stage 10:1 unit, will never be able to exceed a 10-atmosphere boost (atmospheric pressure being somewhere around 14.7psi, depending on weather conditions and your elevation), you're looking at around 125psi after adiabatic losses... but wear on the cylinder at that point might not have any considerable effect on performance. The reed box certainly would, as a reed that doesn't open or close well really eats performance. My question would really be what CAUSED the reed-box damage, and wether it's actually a critical issue... it might not be. In a multistage compressor, there's some physics advantages, as well as better thermodynamic performance, but at the cost of complexity. I've had to deal with pump situations like this. On the true industrials, it's usually not too difficult to do some machinework to put some new life back into 'em. I've done three Quincys, and most recently, a Brunner V4... that one is currently in my shop with a 300gal tank, and even at just 3hp, and showing it's age, it's still a workin' beast... it was built around 1939, and it's slow and quiet. If it is a high-end pump, then a little work might do a good job. Replacing it with a cheap import will get you a few years... my choice is always to find a seriouis industrial unit at a junkyard, pull it apart, and give it a rebuild. A good US-made Qunicy industrial pump is several grand, I've bought 'em for $25, put in $100 in parts, and 6 hours' work, and gotten an industrial-grade 30-year result for the price of a 3-year cheap import.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34181 |
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Thanks for the replies.
The tank is an important part of that compressor system.
I have been looking at the weights of the different compressor units and there is quite a difference in the over-all weights of them. Some are a few hundred pounds (looking at 60-80 gallon size) and they go up from there. Some have light weight motors, and others have aluminum block pumps vs the cast iron bodied pumps and then the tank itself for the shell thickness. Even the kind of steel they used in producing the tank plays an important part in it's longevity. and cheaper the units are, the less critical info they supply. I haven't looked at the tank real good yet, but when I do, I will look inside it if I can and try cleaning it and if it looks decent, then put pressure to it and see if it has any leaks. The tank sat on a wood base in the corner of a dirt floor shed where the fellow had his work area and the compressor sat on his bench. |
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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