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dalebertjohnsto 
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Joined: 17 Mar 2015
Location: Strafford Mo.
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 Topic: Advice on CA engine work
Posted: 22 Mar 2015 at 11:35pm |
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I recently bought a '52 CA for $350. The motor was locked up, but everything else seems fine. After some failed small attempts at getting it freed I pulled the head to find cylinder #1 was fine, #2 had surface rust, #3 was holding water with deeper rust, and #4 had surface rust. Two valve were slightly stuck but freed up easily. Eventually I'd love to do a complete overhaul, but right now I'm look for the cheapest way to get her going. Would it be possible to replace only one sleeve, and if so is it possible to buy just one? Or is there any chance that after I let it soak and free up a little that I could hone it? I know my thoughts will make some of you guys cringe, but I'm looking for cheap and temporary. Thanks in advance for any help!!
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CAL(KS)
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
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Posted: 23 Mar 2015 at 5:18am |
cheap and temporary would be soak and hone. unless you could find 1 descent used sleeve and piston i wouldnt bother putting in any parts unless they are new, but that is my opinion. if your going to replace anything just spend the $$ and get a kit and do it once and be done. tearing it down to put in used parts, your halfway there
sometimes the rust looks worse than it really is, other times you spend all that time and there is a miss on # 3 or it fogs the neighborhood  |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 23 Mar 2015 at 6:21am |
Nothing wrong with good used parts. I built this engine at the link with all used parts except for the bearing shells and it is in my main mowing Allis C tractor. Problems when people (assume) they have good parts without measuring them. This engine was built with parts from several different tractors. In buying used parts if you can not measure and check them don't buy them. http://public.fotki.com/DickL/allis_chalmers_engi/allis-chalmers-c-st/
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Ken in Texas
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Location: Henderson, TX
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Posted: 23 Mar 2015 at 8:54am |
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Dick L
Dick L
As a rule main caps must match and be in order for the block they are from and rod caps must match the rod they came off from. If you have a good block and the main caps aren't from that block will a line boring job solve the problem.
If you could. Explain line boring and the pluses it provides in these old AC engines. Minus stuff too. Are finding main bearings a problem?
Also. Can old undersize liners be overboard up to 3.4375? and reused.
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dalebertjohnsto
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Joined: 17 Mar 2015
Location: Strafford Mo.
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Posted: 23 Mar 2015 at 9:47am |
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Well thanks guys, I do a lot of stuff that most most don't recommend. For example I hauled the tractor home on a steel deck trailer behind my 1994 Toyota pickup. I've also welded axle shafts and drive shafts on farm equipment and it worked fine. I'll try to get by with honing. I agree that I should either try it for free, or spend all the money.
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 23 Mar 2015 at 11:20am |
 Ken in Texas wrote:
Dick L
Dick L
As a rule main caps must match and be in order for the block they are from and rod caps must match the rod they came off from. If you have a good block and the main caps aren't from that block will a line boring job solve the problem.
If you could. Explain line boring and the pluses it provides in these old AC engines. Minus stuff too. Are finding main bearings a problem?
Also. Can old undersize liners be overboard up to 3.4375? and reused. |
With the double Dick L I take it that this is a test. (:^D True, main bearing caps should be kept with the block and at the place they were bored when new. With that said you can set the main bearing block that will need shimmed in place with the bolts snug and feel with your finger on the inside for a mismatch. If you do not have a mismatch (meaning offset/or lip edge) it would not cause a problem shimming to the proper clearance. It also would be good caps to line bore without shims. If you notice, none were marked from the factory as to there location. After line boring the cap location would be critical. Rod caps would be the same. I bought a box of pistons with rods that the caps were loose in the box. Most would interchange but some wouldn't. Line boring is done on a line boring machine. It runs a cutter thru from on end of the block to the other at the proper diameter of the outside of the bearing shells. With the main bearing caps torqued in place the material mostly being cut is from the caps on the engines that once used shims. The plus side would be new bearings can be installed by anyone that can turn a wrench without worrying about how to shim or check clearance. The Minus side in my opinion is that it costs unnecessary money and keep a person from learning a craft. Filing bearings is something done when you are using a used crankshaft that is undersized but still in spec. The only problems I can see with filing bearings is not filing square, keeping filings off the bearing face or removing more than necessary. Boring out sleeves can and has been done. It is not a common lathe job. Not saying it could not be done in a lathe, just not something I would want to do. To have total success a person would bore them out with the sleeves in the engine block or in a special fixture.
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Ken in Texas
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Location: Henderson, TX
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Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 8:46am |
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The Double Dick L was a accident
Your advice has been and always will be taken seriously because you in most cases have been there and done that. You make complicated things understandable for us average folks.
So. If I have a good block and a mixed up unmarked main caps and take them and a crank and new main bearings that match the crank to a good engine shop they can line bore and fit the crank at a price. And then throw the shims away.
At 75 I will never ware the engine out it sitting in the barn most of the time.
There probably should be a Category on the Forum for AC ENGINES ONLY. I had to go to page three to get your reply to my engine Questions posted yesterday. All in favor of a ENGINES ONLY forum category, Raise your Hand.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 9:57am |
 Forum talk would be the place to go to suggest an Engines only forum. It might save guys a lot of searching for old topics!
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 10:58am |
Ken in Texas wrote:
The Double Dick L was a accident
Your advice has been and always will be taken seriously because you in most cases have been there and done that. You make complicated things understandable for us average folks.
So. If I have a good block and a mixed up unmarked main caps and take them and a crank and new main bearings that match the crank to a good engine shop they can line bore and fit the crank at a price. And then throw the shims away.
At 75 I will never ware the engine out it sitting in the barn most of the time.
There probably should be a Category on the Forum for AC ENGINES ONLY. I had to go to page three to get your reply to my engine Questions posted yesterday. All in favor of a ENGINES ONLY forum category, Raise your Hand. |
Thank for the vote of confidence! I assumed the double Dick L was an accident but how can a wisenheimer such as myself let it go.(:^D They sure would be able to transform the engine into a no shim main bearing engine by line boring. At almost 77 I am in the same boat. I do hope to wear out a coupla lift chairs though. 
Edited by Dick L - 24 Mar 2015 at 10:59am
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