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Lonn 
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 Topic: Adjusting a belt driven governor on Ford 4 cylinde
Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 8:54pm |
Any hints? I haven't dealt with a belt driven governor before. The top bearing for the arm that links to the carb was very loose and missing some ball bearings. I could not get a new one.... must be special. I made a bronze bushing and it pivots very freely.
Start from the beginning. This is on gasoline Ford powered 342 Mustange. The engine is a 1.6L model 2274R. Since I've owned this skidloader it either had wide open throttle or idle. Over the past several years I was slowly losing idle. When I had it apart I found just a little brown muck in the housing instead of oil. I cleaned it up, made that bronze bushing, and everything works as far as I can tell but after I installed it the governor now hunts. I had made no adjustments so it was set like it was before I cleaned it up. Did I put it together wrong?
The link to carb was adjusted way too long so I shortened it to just slipping together, maybe a 1/32" too short, with the throttle lever set at full throttle and the carb held at wide open. I thought making that adjustment may help but nope.
I can post a video of it once the video finishes down loading. BTW a new governor is only $1,200. I was thinking of buying two! 
Edited by Lonn - 24 Aug 2021 at 8:56pm
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MACK
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Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 9:08pm |
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Is it a Petterson governor ? Most have a surge spring behind the fork and a adjusting bolt that moves governed spring closer or farther away from pivot shaft. MACK
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Lonn
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Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 9:17pm |
Don't know what kind it is. I looked for a name or numbers but found nothing. Could be under the thick yellow paint. It kinda looks like a Hoof maybe. Just going by what I found for pictures on the web.
I couldn't find much info on clear instructions on adjustment. I'm betting I'll have to pull it off and take another look inside. I did not see a spring behind the fork. There is a bumper adjusting screw on the back side of the housing that has a small spring attached to it about the size of a spring from a pen but much stiffer. It doesn't look long enough to touch the fork. I wish I had a name and model off it and a good clear parts diagram.
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Lonn
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Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 9:26pm |
Here is a video of it at idle. I mover the throttle link by hand to wide open so the engine is capable. When I move the throttle control in the cab to wide open, it then hunts.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 4:40am |
looks like a job for a bungee cord... 
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DrAllis
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Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 5:58am |
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Lengthen that governor to carb link rod until the surging stops. Then, if it doesn't idle down fully, change your linkage from the cockpit to the governor just a tad to achieve full idle down.
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Lonn
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Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 12:17pm |
I tried the governor to carb link in all lengths and it hunts at all attempts, even adjusted as long as it will go, which is where it was at when I bought it.
The only change I made was installing a bronze bushing in place of the worn out bearing. It moves very freely. I also tried a light spring like a C Allis has and no change. I tried a stiffer spring and it just lowered my high rpm but still hunts. Prior to me installing the new bushing it ran good but I only had high rpm and a lot of slop in the governor shaft when I moved it by hand. I am stumped.
Would a worn throttle shaft bushing in the carb cause the hunting? It seems a little sloppy though it idles great and runs great wide open when I control the throttle shaft by hand.
Would changing the governor over to a constant speed governor help so I had idle and wide open? Can that be done easily? |
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 1:14pm |
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If all else fails,maybe retrofit one from a Gleaner Chevy engine?
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Lonn
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Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 2:30pm |
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Thought about that.
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MACK
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Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 9:10pm |
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Does your hand control go to governor or carb? The best I can see from video, it is a constant speed governor. PM me with phone #, I think I can help. MACK
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Lonn
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Posted: 26 Aug 2021 at 7:48am |
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The hand control goes to the governor. I sent you a PM Mack
Edited by Lonn - 26 Aug 2021 at 7:48am
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Lonn
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Posted: 27 Aug 2021 at 12:17am |
Here is a little better video of the problem. I can try to push on the output lever to try and hold high rpm but the governor fights me as the video will show.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 27 Aug 2021 at 7:19am |
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Well, at this stage of the game, shorten up the eyebolt the governor spring hooks into. I see a paint mark on the threads like maybe someone has adjusted it before and shouldn't have. The length of that eyebolt changes the sensitivity of the governor. I still maintain if you make the link rod to the carb LONGER and I mean LONGER it will deaden the governor action.
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Lonn
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Posted: 27 Aug 2021 at 12:22pm |
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This governor was repainted at some point. Where it looks like the paint has been removed was from me adjusting the eye bolt down to that point. I'll shorten it back up and try lengthening the link to carb. I'll make it as long as it will go if I have to. After that, working or not I'm hauling it to auction for the labor day sale in dexter mn.
Someone told me it may be the carb even if it runs great otherwise. I don't know? It had a jet in the top half that would only back out a turn and then felt like it was going to break so I screwed it back in.
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Lonn
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Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 12:23pm |
Well I got it to stop hunting. I have a top rpm of about 2750 and a low of 1200. It isn't perfect but a combine doesn't idle much lower than that so I'm satisfied and it runs great. I adjusted that link from gov to carb as long as it would go like Dr Allis suggested and adjusted the eye bolt out away from from the shaft as Mack suggested over the phone. That was the only combination that I could make work.
Thanks to all. Especially to Mack for taking the time to call me. I wish I was a better conversationalist over the phone though I was very happy to talk to one of the legends of the Allis page!
Edited by Lonn - 28 Aug 2021 at 4:13pm
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 12:43pm |
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When you say it isn't perfect....what's that mean? I was hoping you got it to quit surging but you don't say exactly.
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Lonn
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Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 4:09pm |
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The surging is completely gone. The not perfect part is the low idle only drops to 1200 rpm. I can take it down to 500 rpm if I push the throttle lever on the carb. I would need to lengthen the linkage from the operator's station to the governor to get it to idle down more but none of the linkage from the lever in the operator's station to the governor is adjustable so I figure close but not perfect is good enough. It otherwise runs just beautiful.
Edited by Lonn - 28 Aug 2021 at 4:11pm
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 4:24pm |
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Straighten out a bend or two in the rod from the cockpit to get it to idle down. Just like adjusting the governor on a WD.....bend the rod.
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Lonn
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Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 5:19pm |
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I might do that if I get time. I plan on selling it at an annual Labor Day auction if it isn't too late to get it on the sale. And if there is a link to straighten..... it all looks straight. I could make an adjustable rod by cutting off the end and threading it and putting a threaded yoke on or put two long rods in place of one with two cable clamps tying them together.
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