Jonas-
Being an owner of TWO B's, several WDs, WCs, and D17... and a Kubota BX, and a homemade loader based on the 'wide frame' IH Cub Cadet, I'll make the following recommendations:
The B is a wonderful little chore tractor, but NOT for a loader... exactly for the reasons above.
The WC, WD, and WD45 would be better, the D17 is best... but...
If you want a serious tool, you'll want the following:
Full hydraulic in both directions (Meaning, no 'trip bucket', and no 'single acting' cylinders... you want to be able to curl the bucket to any angle, and to be able to apply downforce, as well as lift).
Full 'live' hydraulics... meaning... if the engine is running, you've got hydraulic power that is NOT interrupted by shifting and clutching
Hydrostatic drive, from a foot treadle. Operating a loader means constant direction changes... and gear slinging and clutching take up a foot, and a hand, and lots of energy and repetetive motion. A foot treadle that controls speed and direction RULES!
Full hydraulic power steering, with the steering ram attached to the AXLE, not the frame, and no funky linkages between the frame and a steering knuckle. When the steering cylinders act directly on the knuckles, slop between the frame and axle pivot, and any other linkages, does not exist, so steering is MUCH more responsive.
Lots of rearend ballast. Figure out how much you'll need, and add more, and leave capacity for more.
Driven front axle. ONLY engage it when you're in DIRE straits, because you would otherwise find yourself doing things that HIDE from you the warning signs of impending danger... like driving around with too heavy a load, way up high.
NO DIFFERENTIAL LOCK. Get independant right-left brakes INSTEAD. Diff lock, particularly with lots of counterweight, puts the differential under massive stress when you're making a turn... and the mechanisms (when mechanical) will frequently stay stuck in 'lock'. In the case of the BX-series, the locking pins (hardened steel) fracture, and send chunks into the bottom of the transaxle, which are then shoved through the aluminum casting, and joined on the ground, with all your hydrostatic fluid. In contrast, separate right-left brakes will allow you to 'manage' wheelslip AND improve steering, without putting expensive hard-parts at risk.
A weight box that hangs on the 3 point, has lots of weight in the bottom, and a covered tray for tools in the top, and hooks on the sides for chains. You'll need long and short chains.
ROPS, with forward and rear-facing LED floodlights. A removable canopy, and removable clear curtains that hang down to waist level, is great in winter wind...
Tire chains, that easily attach even with wheel weights in place. Yes, you'll have wheel weights. Probably Beet Juice in the tires, too. Did I mention weight?
Foam fill the front tires. You don't have to initially, but eventually, you'll want to. Flat steer tires on a loader, particularly in the winter, or in mud... really suck...
Don't drill or torch holes in the bucket, but DO weld three chain-hooks to the top edge stiffening-brace... one on each end, and one on the middle. If you don't know why, you'll learn fast! ;-)
If you get one that is small enough to be trailerable, get a dump trailer big enough to drive it in, and curl the bucket around the front (to hold it in place), and still close and lock the gate. Make sure the trailer, and tow vehicle have capacity to handle it.
Once you have a good utility tractor with loader, and a dump trailer and truck, you will be able to accomplish things you couldn't DREAM of, and you'll be able to do it FAST... and you won't regret it for a minute!!!
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