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Gleaner6879 
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Joined: 16 Jun 2012
Location: Missouri
Points: 153
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 Topic: Add Remote for D17
Posted: 19 Jun 2012 at 8:07pm |
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I'm wanting to add a second hydraulic remote on my D17 in order to purchase a hydraulic bucket loader. Can anyone give me some guidance on what all is involved (parts, etc.) and rough estimate on cost? I believe the stack necessary to complete the job is the same on both the 17 and a 180. If anyone has any of the parts necessary for the job, please let me know. Thanks, roger
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AdamsSoIL
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Joined: 17 Jul 2010
Location: elco il
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Posted: 19 Jun 2012 at 8:29pm |
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my dad i and just did this on our d17. we got every thing we needed off of an xt. we had an old xt rear end so we just swapped the valve stacks . it bolted right up. we used hydraulic hoses to go to the extra remotes .
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 6072
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Posted: 19 Jun 2012 at 9:59pm |
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Is your D17 a Series IV? IF not, you'll be needing much more than just an additional remote, because the Series I, II, and III use high-pressure/low volume hydraulics, rather than modern lower-pressure high volume.
If you have a Series IV, then I believe it's simply a matter of adding a section to the end of the valve stack for 'power beyond', and piping the supply to the additional valve body, then piping the additional valve body to return filter/tank.
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Gleaner6879
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Joined: 16 Jun 2012
Location: Missouri
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Posted: 19 Jun 2012 at 10:14pm |
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It is a series IV. Thank you for your insight! Will probably have to go the salvage route to find a valve stack to add.
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Gatz in NE
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lincoln, NE
Points: 1060
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Posted: 20 Jun 2012 at 7:20am |
You'll need the longer bolts (1 1/2" I think) that hold the stack together. Don't use Redi-Rod, aka All Thread.
Make sure they give you the very small spring that fits between the valve banks....each remote valve has one. And, that the check valve is in place; items 4 & 5 below. The spring is easy to overlook/loose. New O'Rings, item 2 recommended.
I've done this on my D17sIV and other than taking a bit of time, no big deal.
Had to fab up some new lines. Tried to gather up steel lines at yard, but knew I was missing a few pieces.
"New" valve from 180 added to left side of stack and 2nd remote outlets installed........lines to be completed.
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Gatz in NE
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lincoln, NE
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Posted: 20 Jun 2012 at 7:25am |
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 20 Jun 2012 at 7:30am |
 Gatz in NE wrote:
You'll need the longer bolts (1 1/2" I think) that hold the stack together. Don't use Redi-Rod, aka All Thread. |
Why not use all thread? Does the shoulder on the bolt help locate things? All thread is available in GR8 so strength shouldn't be a concern.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 20 Jun 2012 at 7:31am
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Gatz in NE
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lincoln, NE
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Posted: 20 Jun 2012 at 7:58am |
Most readily available All Thread is Grade 2 (like the kind at the local Ace Hdwe or Mennards store) more than likely made in China from who-knows-what material that may have once been our plows/culitvators and Pepsi cans.
The softer grade will stretch and more than likely it'll blow the O'Ring(s) out.
McMaster-Carr has some 5/16 - 24 all thread that is Medium Grade; 4140 Grade 5.
125k tensile. (I believe 5/16-24 is the thread size of the original bolts.)
On McMaster-Carr's home page, type in All Thread, then select 5/16" -24 size in left column.
I think it's the first item on page 3164
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