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allischalmerguy 
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 Topic: AC number 7 sickle mower questions
Posted: 14 Jun 2016 at 10:00pm |
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I have a AC number 7 sickle mower that pulls behind my tractor. What sickles and rivets does it use?
Thank you,
Pastor Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 5:19am |
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I forget which Herschel sections it uses. "A" I think. Switch to the bolts and nuts, you will be soooooo much happier come time to change one. I got mine at Orschlens, but Theisens has everything you need as well.
AaronSEIA
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 6:39am |
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They're the same as Ford,also can get new sickle assemblies from Webb's Sickle
Service better than original.A word of caution on getting bolted on sections you'll most
likely have to replace all your hold downs because they won't clear the nuts on the bolts.
I get new riveted sickle assembies and if I need to replace a section I can use bolts by
putting the nut on the bottom of the blade and if you have AC guards they'll let the
nuts clear.
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 6:47am |
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I don't have any issues with the old hold downs and bolted sections. Just make sure you get the shortest bolts that will fit. Think I did need to grind the extra on the ones that hold the drive plate on. No issues otherwise. But...I have pressed steel hold downs that might be replacements.
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 6:52am |
 AaronSEIA wrote:
I don't have any issues with the old hold downs and bolted sections. Just make sure you get the shortest bolts that will fit. Think I did need to grind the extra on the ones that hold the drive plate on. No issues otherwise. But...I have pressed steel hold downs that might be replacements.
AaronSEIA |
Every AC 7 and 80 sickle mower I have ever owned that had original hold downs the bolts would not work.Plus the bolts are easier to replace putting them in from the section side.
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 10:19am |
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Thanks guys.
Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 10:24am |
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Looking on Webbs website it looks like there is bolted headless and bolted with heads. I need to get my sickle out so I can look at it. I bought the number 7 used. It has worked good for two seasons. I saw one of the sickles was loose on it... Do you guys sharper your sickles? If so how do you do it?
Thanks
Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 11:29am |
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I don't but dad did when I was a kid. Had a big ole stone in a bench grinder that was shaped in a v. I've seen them in antique stores. As little as I mow new sections will last me a long time.
AaronSEIA
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 1:09pm |
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My dad had a stone like that too Aaron. I have seen the clamp on ones at old threshers...they look neat.
Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Tracy Martin TN
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 1:12pm |
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I sharpen my with a pad sander.It is really a 2 inch diameter disc pad. Works fine.One direction is easier than other direction, the pad wants to grab. Tracy
Edited by Tracy Martin TN - 15 Jun 2016 at 4:42pm
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 1:24pm |
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Dad put it in the vise and used a file.....
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 4:19pm |
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Do yourself and the mower a favor and just buy a new sickle nothing is harder on and more expensive in the long run than using a dull sickle and if you sharpen it, it'll never cut like a new one.
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 15 Jun 2016 at 11:18pm |
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A bolted sickle will not work a the stock hold downs. Buy a new sickle bar don't re-sharpen.
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 16 Jun 2016 at 10:53am |
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Sorry guys money does not grow on trees at my house! The old farmers used to sharpen their sickles and I may try that. I wish I could afford a new sickle knife. Does any one have a parts book for the Number 7 sickle trailer mower? I have the owners manual. I want to know how long and big the rivets are that go through the knife head part? That is where I have a loose section. Thanks
Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Bill Long
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Posted: 16 Jun 2016 at 12:07pm |
Pastor Mike, Good to hear from you. Hope this finds you well. Regards to you and your family. I can only say what we did to mount the sickle sections cause I do not know what sections will fit. You are lucky to have a pull type #7 mower. No mounting frame problems. Also, the #7 was just about as good as the 80 series, and a whole lot better than pitman mowers. I remember pulling the cutter bar and working on it in the shop. We had a sort of home made rig to attach the cutter sections. Others can tell you about the replacement sections. Take good care. Good Luck! Bill Long
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 16 Jun 2016 at 4:59pm |
Bill Long wrote:
Pastor Mike, Good to hear from you. Hope this finds you well. Regards to you and your family.I can only say what we did to mount the sickle sections cause I do not know what sections will fit. You are lucky to have a pull type #7 mower. No mounting frame problems. Also, the #7 was just about as good as the 80 series, and a whole lot better than pitman mowers. I remember pulling the cutter bar and working on it in the shop. We had a sort of home made rig to attach the cutter sections. Others can tell you about the replacement sections. Take good care. Good Luck! Bill Long |
Thanks Bill, it is good to hear your response. I am doing well. Best regards to you and your family also! When I get up some more energy I will get out to work on it. I want to a farm store nearby in Marengo Iowa and got an assortment of rivets. Also I had purchased some "A" sickle sections at another farm store before. Pray I can get it fixed! Pastor Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 16 Jun 2016 at 9:41pm |
I got the sickle out. I put a 2x8 under the foot and lowered the sickle down and took off the bolk with the fitting to secure the sickle knife onto the cross bar. I had to take a breaker bar with a handle extension to break loose the bolt. I found two sickle sections that need replaced. Tomorrow's project to do some riveting. I do have an old piece of railroad iron to use to help with the riveting. 
Edited by allischalmerguy - 16 Jun 2016 at 9:42pm
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 16 Jun 2016 at 9:43pm |
 One of the sickle sections that was loose
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 16 Jun 2016 at 9:46pm |
 I used the old screwdriver and hammer to hold up the crossboard drive..   Here you can see the bolt and the bushing (??) that the bolt goes through to hold the sickle to the two wheel drive
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Auntwayne
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Posted: 16 Jun 2016 at 10:19pm |
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Dennis old buddy, just replaced the 2 outer sections ( imagine that) with bolts for the first time. No clearance issues at all. Duane
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 9:16am |
There sure are some variations in those knife sections...can't imagine that is good. That one with the "I" on it looks a little out of place. It may be an optical illusion as the knife next to it is askew. The back sides of all the knife sections should be relatively uniform in order for them to ride smoothly on the wear plate. Incidentally, the wear plate closest to the cross bar appears to be seriously worn and should be replaced. I would guess that "sad" looking knife to the right of the one with the "I" has a sheared rivet and has been moving back and forth for some time. Allis-Chalmers must approve of sharpening the knives as they stipulate that the angle and bevel must be maintained when grinding. If it were me I would replace any badly worn or misfitting knives including the "I" knife and the one next to it. Getting all things lined up and fitting properly will result in a clean cutting mower. Another tip: Make sure the crossbar bushing bolt is a grade 8 and the threads on the bolt and the knife head are in good condition and kept good and tight. Finding a lost one of those out in the field could be a serious challenge and replacements are hard to come by. BTW, I did find mine. LOL The threads in the knife head on mine were pretty bad so I welded a nut on the backside of it, ground it for clearance and replaced the bolt with one slightly longer. I converted the 82S to bolts but I did have to replace some original hold downs as the nuts wouldn't clear.
Edited by Brian G. NY - 17 Jun 2016 at 9:35am
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 9:29am |
You are apparently going to continue using rivets. When I was using rivets, I made a special anvil using a short piece of RR track with a cut off Gr 8 bolt screwed in to it. The bolt would fit up between the guards and contact the head of the rivet. However, there is a tool made specifically for installing rivets in the field which would probably work better..  |
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allischalmerguy
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Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 11:10am |
Brian G. NY wrote:
There sure are some variations in those knife sections...can't imagine that is good. That one with the "I" on it looks a little out of place. It may be an optical illusion as the knife next to it is askew. The back sides of all the knife sections should be relatively uniform in order for them to ride smoothly on the wear plate. Incidentally, the wear plate closest to the cross bar appears to be seriously worn and should be replaced. I would guess that "sad" looking knife to the right of the one with the "I" has a sheared rivet and has been moving back and forth for some time. Allis-Chalmers must approve of sharpening the knives as they stipulate that the angle and bevel must be maintained when grinding. If it were me I would replace any badly worn or misfitting knives including the "I" knife and the one next to it. Getting all things lined up and fitting properly will result in a clean cutting mower. Another tip: Make sure the crossbar bushing bolt is a grade 8 and the threads on the bolt and the knife head are in good condition and kept good and tight. Finding a lost one of those out in the field could be a serious challenge and replacements are hard to come by. BTW, I did find mine. LOL The threads in the knife head on mine were pretty bad so I welded a nut on the backside of it, ground it for clearance and replaced the bolt with one slightly longer. I converted the 82S to bolts but I did have to replace some original hold downs as the nuts wouldn't clear.
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Thanks for your insight Brian. The one with the 1 on it is good the one to the right is very out of line so it makes the one with the 1 on it look out of line. I will for sure get a grade 8 bolt for it...I do not know what is on it now. Where do you get the wear plate that is close to the cross bar? Thanks! Mike
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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 11:34am |
Wear plates are available from Webb's Sickle Service but they are the short ones. Allis mowers were equipped with long wear plates originally. Using as many of the short ones as will fit should work. If that bolt in the bushing is original and the threads are not worn, you should have no problem. It appears that the knife with the "I" sticks out on the back side more than the others....might be an optical illusion? The left rivet on the knife to the left of it most assuredly is sheared and allowing the knife to move. That is why it is "out of line". Being as worn as that knife is, it no longer fits snugly against the other knife which puts even more strain on the rivets of both knives. |
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tadams(OH)
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Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 2:34pm |
If you have a vise, open the vise enough that the knife will fit in between the jaws, now lay the knife asembly across the, the bar will rest on the vise jaw take a hammer and hit the knife you want to remove, then take a punch and knock the remainder of the rivet out. Thats the easiest way to remove bad knives.
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