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ac20577 
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Joined: 07 Jun 2015
Location: sweden
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 Topic: AC B 1939 assembly
Posted: 14 Jul 2015 at 1:31pm |
After starting the engine it had no oil pressure, so now the engine is separated from torque tube to make some service on the pump. It gave a chance to take a good look at the rattling noise I think came from the clutch throwout bearing. It looked good though so I decided to clean and put new grease and hope it will work ok.
Now to the obstacle - when assembling the flywheel I found this part on photo lying on the floor right under the fastened flywheel. I´m certain it fell out when the flywheel or bearing was removed, but I have no idea where it fits.
Please give me no guess but the one place it fits.
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
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Posted: 14 Jul 2015 at 6:46pm |
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Looks to me like it goes into the slip yoke of the draglink.
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wbecker
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Joined: 29 Oct 2009
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Posted: 14 Jul 2015 at 7:26pm |
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I fell of the drag link.
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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ac20577
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Posted: 15 Jul 2015 at 2:42am |
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Of course... you make me remember I turned the drag link and it must have fell out then. Tanks for answering so swift!
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
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Posted: 15 Jul 2015 at 6:26am |
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Not sure what you did to the oil pump when you had the tractor split but you may have to prime it. When you have tractor back together and are ready to start it remove oil line that comes from pump thru bell housing cutout and take a oil can (the type with a finger lever) and fill pump with oil, replace oil line to pump and start tractor.
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ac20577
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Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 4:15am |
To verify oil pump the engine must start properly which is NOT easy at all and I cant see why. The carburetor seem to be ok, axis not worn and new gaskets. Attachment to manifold ok with new gasket. Manifold seem ok and attachment to body ok with tube gasket. Magneto Fairbanks Morse FMJ - service maid, fire and timing to FIRE mark ok.
Put my hand over air inlet on carburetor when cranking and feel weak vacuum. When choke closed gasoline spray through the small hole under carburetor, seems like air pressure from manifold pressing out gasoline. Spark plugs always dry and clean when checking. So obvious conclusion is enough gas don't reach cylinder properly - but why? To weak engine compression? Not sure -my ACB39 have no battery start so I haven't checked cylinder compression with tool by spinning the engine. Earlier when detached top I checked tightness on cylinder and valve by pouring on some diesel.
I have to crank, choke, crank, prime with start gas, crank, change nozzle turns on carburetor, ... gasoline drains or spray out through the hole underneath carburetor when choke on, sometime a single fire, all of a sudden it start after lots of sweat and sw... - sometimes not at all. So what is the problem - why not enough gas in cylinder when magneto firing?
Very glad for good advice!
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 6:54am |
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When you get a spark to number one spark plug it should be at the TDC or CENTER line on the flywheel in the inspection hole on the compression stroke. (NOT THE FIRE LINE) The FIRE line on the flywheel should be in the inspection hole when running but can only be seen with a timing light. Instructions in the manual calling out the FIRE line is for setting the magneto without the impulse spring keeping you from getting the drive lugs on the magneto entering the notches in the governor drive. The FIRE line is 30° advanced (before) from the TDC/CENTER line.
You would also be in order for a compression check. You do not need the spark plugs in any cylinders to do a compression check with a gauge in the cylinder you are checking. This will make hand cranking easier. You do not have to spin the engine over fast to get a compression check. You only need to be interested in the amount of compression you have for crank starting at this point.
Back to basic operation of the engine you need Fuel, Compression and then spark at the proper time.
You do also need good hot spark, good spark plugs, good spark plug wires and good fuel. More so on a crank start.
Gas running out the bottom of the carburetor when choking is natural as long as it is not running out when it is just setting where it empties the gas tank. You do have to have compression to be able to have vacuum to suck gas into the carburetor while having the choke closed.
1 -- Recheck timing.
2 -- Check for hot spark
3 -- Check compression
This would be for starting. The carburetor would need to be in proper adjustment for continued running.
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ac20577
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Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 2:42pm |
Yes Dick, I am familiar with most of
what you wrote. Magneto timing is well described he - both Fire
mark and TDC mark timing method:
http://personalpages.tds.net/~thompson_wp/acb/magtiming/magtiming.htm
The magneto is checked by credible company working with magnetos in old engines. Timing is now adjusted to TDC
mark.
I bought a gauge for compression ratio check – gauge
shows 3,2 to 1 at slow spinning with start handle compared to 4,67 to
1 in specifications. Enough for start engine?
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 4:19pm |
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I do not understand your numbers to be able to convert into US pounds. For a crank start tractor to start easy it does take higher compression numbers rather than lower numbers. Your numbers would want to be close to what would be used in a semi truck tire. The numbers should be close on each cylinder as well. If those are low compression numbers you can put engine oil in the plug holes before the gauge is put in and see how much of a jump you get in pressure. If you do not get much of a higher pressure it could be a valve problem. Make sure you check the valve lash to make sure the valves can close tight.
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Bill Long
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Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 4:24pm |
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Listen Closely to what is said above. They are some of the finest mechanics I have never met.
I only hope you will be able to KEEP THE B RUNNING.
Take good care of my favorite.
Would love to see pictures.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 5:46pm |
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Dick, It sounds to me like his compression gauge shows compression ratio not PSI or BAR.
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norm[ind]
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Posted: 19 Jul 2015 at 7:10pm |
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have you had the valve cover off yet????-looks like broken valve spring to me39,s might be different have seen some with roller tappets
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ac20577
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Posted: 20 Jul 2015 at 7:32am |
Dick, sorry the compression is in PSI and a second measure on all 4 showes numbers close to specifications. Finally all tuning ok and the very first tour went without a problem. Waiting for decals. 
Tanks for all support!
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Dick L
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Posted: 20 Jul 2015 at 10:53am |
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Fantastic! Nice looking B and decals will make it look better.
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