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AC 175 Diesel cracked block opinions

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bozrae View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 2:16pm

Bought a nice low hour original paint 175 diesel earlier this year that has a crack in the block. Previous owner had it 25 years and said the block cracked about 20 years ago. I didn't get a clear answer on why it cracked, it seems it is a frost crack, but don't know for sure. No water gets into the oil, previous owner put JB weld over block, but the JB weld has since cracked. Owner said he could run it for an 8 hour day and it would lose very little antifreeze. When I got it, I ran it for about 3 hours and it lost almost no antifreeze so that story seems to be true. However, I changed antifreeze with a heavy duty diesel antifreeze and ran it for about another 3 hours and it seems to have deteriorated the JB weld some more and started leaking more.

I could JB weld it back up and continue to run it, I don't really use it much, but would someday like to fix it right. Replacing the block would probably be the best option, but it runs fantastic the way it is right now. I've ruled out welding it. There is something call metal stitching, but that looks costly and time consuming too and I don't know if that would fix it 100%.

I'm curious about other people's opinions would be for fixing or not fixing the block.

I'm 100% convinced this is truly a lower hours tractor (2,400 hours), by the way it runs and drives and the overall tightness of everything.

Would anyone have a good correct block, it's the 248ci.



D15D, D17G, 170G, 175D, and two 5050FWA
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farmtoybuilder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtoybuilder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 2:37pm
I would clean it off and "lightly" peen with air punch and fill with liquid steel or Cat 2 part steel Epoxy  and continue running it. If you don't want to peen it you could still clean good and put the better epoxy's on it and continue running. We also had a small crack tig welded on block and it did well for many years. 

Edited by farmtoybuilder - 09 Nov 2018 at 2:38pm
5 different TT-10's,5 TT-18's Terra Tigers,B-10,2 B-207's,B-110,2 B-112's,HB-112,B-210,B-212,HB212,2 Scamp's & Homilite T-10. Still hunting NICE HB-112 & anything Terra Tiger & Trailers for them.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 2:44pm
It appears to be very close to a main engine oil galley, as evidenced by the oil pressure sender just below the crack, which leaks coolant.  I have plated a couple of tractor pulling blocks years ago, but they were flatter and not as contoured as this one is from front to rear.  As the engine works, that crack is trying to spread apart from the crankshaft pushing down and the cylinder head lifting up. If there was any way to get some good weld on it to keep it from spreading, then more epoxy/goop would last longer because the crack would stay shut.
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 2:53pm
There is a liquid metal product called belzona that puts JB weld to shame. It's a two part product that you mix together prior to use. I would try it. Not a fix that I'd be proud of, but I bet it will work, and if it doesn't, you really aren't out that much. Darrel
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Gary Burnett View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 4:13pm
Get a can of that spray on stuff they advertise on TV that they make a bottom for a boat out of a screen door,ought to do the trick.
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Claus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Claus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 4:22pm
Nice looking tractor.
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 5:19pm
There’s a 248 block on e-bay for $500. They want $175 for shipping, but it’s in Waukesha, WI, so picking it up might be an option.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 6:23pm
I agree with the good Dr, a good welder can fix that. My local machine shop has a welder that is unbelievable. When he is done you can barely see the repair. And it will be permanent.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bozrae Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 7:27pm
Thanks for the comments, that gives me some more to think about. I did just check out the block on Ebay.......that is brand new still with the crate. That sounds tempting, but it's probably newer than the one I have, not sure what may have changed over the years.
I wanted to stay away from welding, but if people have had good successes with it, then I'd still consider that too.
Or maybe with a higher quality epoxy, it can take some stress flexing if the crack wants to open up a little under heavy load.
D15D, D17G, 170G, 175D, and two 5050FWA
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Roach View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roach Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 8:30pm
I have welded several of the years with great success and is a much more permanent fix but as stated before, Belzona is a very good product and we have built up worn shafts, blocks and axels. It is tough as metal and machines very well. In the same token, a good spare block laying around for 500 may be a good deal if you plan on keeping the tractor. It does look like a good one.
1937 WC, 1948 G,1954 CA,1956 WD45, 1967 D17, 1937 M crawler, 1963 D-19, 1966 190XT, 1967 D-15, 1948 HG42 Cletrac, 1955 G456 Terra Trac, CAT 10 1928 and CAT 22 1938
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2018 at 8:40pm
What I would do is to have someone who has a magnaflux machine, and knows how to use it, use it to find the ends of the crack.  Then talk with a good welder, he will be able to advise you better.  Important thing is to stop the crack from spreading further.  Once your welder advises you on what to do, take his advice...  

If it were a shorter crack, I would recommend an epoxy or belzona type epoxy, but that one is damn long...  Also after welding, an antifreeze sealant containing sodium silicate, like Blue Devil block sealant, would be a good investment...

I once had a JD 420I, that had a crack, about 3" long, from a rod hit, it was a vertical one, heafing up toward the water jacket.  Found the ends with magnaflux kit, then drilled a hole, at each end, and threaded in a 3/8" fine threaded bolt, + 1 in the middle, then veed out the crack, and JB welded it shut.  This was an oil only crack, snd that ole buvket of bolts lasted another 10 years, before I traded it off...Wink
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