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Schst 
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Joined: 28 Aug 2021
Location: Marion, Ia
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 Topic: A few WD questions
Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 5:26pm |
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1. I'm replacing the clutch on my WD. I've had trouble getting tractor in gear & the clutch is probably close to be needing replaced. Since I'll have the engine out of the frame is there any parts worth replacing? I.e. timing gears/chain, oil pump, valve grind/valve seats grind?
2. Is worth spending the money for a carburetor vice a kit?
Would it hurt anything to move the oil pressure gage up to the control panel area?
Thanks
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 5:55pm |
Have the flywheel turned down to true it/resurface. If it has a pilot bushing/bearing, replace. Check the ring gear and starter drive teeth. Pull the oil pan and front and rear oil seals. If the motor is running fine, with no knocks or coolant loss, lever B. 
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 7:43pm |
Welcome! There are always things on a 70 year old tractor that you can do. But may not be needed? The while your in there bug can cost you a lot of time and dollars. But if the old tractor needs it and you want it to be good then repairing and or refurb. may be in order as you disassembly and examine parts. Guys on here can help you evaluate most of the parts if you put on a good description and pictures. Regards, |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Schst
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Location: Marion, Ia
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 8:05pm |
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Chris,
Not really planning on opening or removing anything major. Unless someone suggests it from past experience. Other than the clutch, it needs an exhaust manifold & maybe carburetor.
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Schst
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 8:10pm |
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Good idea about the flywheel & pilot bearing. Probably do throw out bearing. The tractor is a strong runner. Haven't noticed it missing. Right before the clutch trouble my son said it seemed to have trouble staying running.
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jvin248
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Joined: 17 Jan 2022
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 10:25pm |
.
If the carburetor is in reasonable shape, get a rebuild kit and an ultrasonic cleaner.
Harbor Freight has one for $85ish that after seeing these videos I'm thinking of getting. First has tractor content, the second good hints like putting small parts in plastic containers.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 11:27pm |
If you THINK it probably needs an intake/exhaust manifold, AND it's having carb-like issues, try replacing the manifold FIRST, as many carb-like problems can be the result of leaks in the manifold and gaskets.
The cool thing about a WD, is that almost ANYTHING you'd need to do to the engine, can be done in-frame... and frankly, much of it IS...
Now the next question is, are you gonna pull the engine, or just put it on splitting stands and roll it forward for the clutch job? there's more than one way to do it, and I'm thinkin' it might actually be easier to just split and roll it forward... I haven't done it, but I know a guy that did... it might be simpler/faster...
Anyone else done it that way?
At some point, it would probably not be a bad thing to pop the head off, decarbon it, scrub the valves, lap the valve seats, check the valve springs, then put it back together and give it a full valve adjustment, but it's easy to do in-frame.
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Dirt Farmer
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Joined: 15 Sep 2020
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 11:43pm |
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I would second the idea of splitting it vs pulling the motor cause if you pull the motor you have to drain the antifreeze and remove the radiator instead of just removing bolts and linkages. For the ring gear if it looks good I would remove it and rotate it 90 degrees to work a different set of teeth for starting. Just use safety when blocking up the tractor, dont need to hurry and take regrettable chances
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corbinstein
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Posted: 07 Feb 2022 at 6:04am |
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For the ring gear, don't you mean flip it 180? BAckwards?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 07 Feb 2022 at 6:27am |
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WD's/WD45's are not meant to be "split" to do a foot clutch. Remove the radiator and pull out the engine.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 07 Feb 2022 at 9:08am |
 corbinstein wrote:
For the ring gear, don't you mean flip it 180? BAckwards? |
Ring gears usually have chamfered teeth on one edge to aid in engagement. If you turn it around on flywheel,you will lose that. If you remove and install it by turning it you can have "new" teeth exposed. Engines stop in about the same place because of compression strokes. I don't remember if it 2 or 4 places on 4cyl's so I don't know that 90 degrees turn is correct. I'd lean toward 45 degrees. Ring gears are not that expensive so I'd REPLACE it if I removed it.
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HudCo
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Posted: 07 Feb 2022 at 10:50am |
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are you sure what clutch needs the work but i will assume the engine clutch
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 07 Feb 2022 at 12:20pm |
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Most ring gears will wear in two places.. One area will have 60- 70% of the wear and the other side will have the rest..... Rotate 90 degrees is correct...... the "bad" area will have a dozen teeth worn.... not just 2-3.
Edited by steve(ill) - 07 Feb 2022 at 12:21pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 08 Feb 2022 at 12:30am |
DrAllis wrote:
WD's/WD45's are not meant to be "split" to do a foot clutch. Remove the radiator and pull out the engine. |
If this is how Doc identifies it, then I'll retract my recommendation above. I had one of mine (project Schwartz) apart several years ago, and I'm trying to remember how I did it, seems to me I had one frame rail removed completely, the other was unbolted from the rearend and affixed to a trailer jack (with a wheel... handy splitting). Why I was doing it, I don't recall, but it seemed like it would've been easy enough to just unbolt the bellhousing and roll the front forward, or the rearend back three feet.
I'm certain it'll be obvious when you tell me... What am I overlooking, Doc?
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 08 Feb 2022 at 6:23am |
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Not to step on toes but I recall reading somewhere that to remove engine you could unbolt the front holster, slide it forward then secure the rear bolts to front holes which then allows the engine to move forward then up and out. No need for stands then and I don't see where the rear of the engine is supported in the frame rails.
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corbinstein
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Posted: 08 Feb 2022 at 6:25am |
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took a minute. understand now.
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Dirt Farmer
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Posted: 08 Feb 2022 at 11:18pm |
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DrAllis thanks for correcting me on the split concept, I took a gander at my wd45 and realized that pulling the radiator and motor is the way to go. I apologize for misleading anyone.
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littlemarv
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Posted: 09 Feb 2022 at 9:00am |
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When I first got into tractoring, I split a WD to replace the clutch. Don't do that. Pull the radiator and the engine.
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The mechanic always wins.
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Schst
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Posted: 09 Feb 2022 at 7:59pm |
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Hey Dave.
Years ago I had a WD 45 that I split to take the motor out. Used a couple jacks & a TO 35 Massey with a loader.
But now I don't have a solid flat surface to split it. On top of all that it's giving the boy something to do by pulling stuff off. Teaching him also. He calls for tips/questions & when he's ready for next step.
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