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A/C 3 Spool Control w/Live Hyd

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bendts View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 5:05pm
Getting the Live Hydraulics set up on the D17 - I currently have all the parts, but I'm not sure the A/C 3 Spool Control will work with a Low Pressure High Vol pump... The spool I have is the 2nd version that was an option on the D15 & 17 - (part number 232910 in the parts manual - if that helps)

Will this work or do I need to get a new spool too?

Thanks
1960 D17 Gas # 28849
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 6:01pm
There's not a ton of information about those triple spool valves to the left of the seat. The auxiliary live pump driven from the belt pulley hole was called 15 GPM @ 1500 psi. The literature doesn't specify 15 GPM at full throttle or 1650 rated speed. I'm thinking 1500 psi was sort of the "industry" standard at that time. The high-volume 15 GPM valve stack for that pump was the next page in the book and p/n 234269. John Deere was pushing 2,000 psi with the New Generation 3010/4010 tractors, but I think Farmall was probably at 1500 psi yet. Anyway, your 232910 valve stack to the left of the seat was coupled with the internal high-pressure belly pump, which was rated at 4.5 GPM's. You could adjust the relief valve on that valve stack so it was 3700 psi or back it out (I believe) and it must have been down to 1500 to 2,000 psi for competitive low-pressure hydraulic cylinders. It had a little wire handle on it for you to turn it in or out to set the pressure. I think you'd be fine at no more than 10 GPM's at full throttle. That is a little shy of a series 4 which was at 12.5 GPM's and honestly for many things it was too fast. So, if it was mine, I'd shoot for 10 GPM's at 2,000 RPM. Use 1/2" hydraulic hose to feed the stack and a return hose of at least that size or larger.

Edited by DrAllis - 12 Mar 2021 at 6:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bendts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 6:15pm
OK Thanks - Yes its set-up now via the belly pump, but going through low pressure rams, so its a very slow system at the moment.

I believe the new pump I have on the front will put out ~10-13 GPM @ full throttle.  I do have 1/2" lines for the pressure and currently the return to the external tank. I'll see how it works.

Thanks
1960 D17 Gas # 28849
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 6:25pm
You probably should remove that handle off of the relief valve once you get the pressures set for 2,000 psi. If for some reason that relief valve ever got turned up, your new pump will potentially explode.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bendts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 6:27pm
Ahh OK - I think the pump will put out up to 2500. But I'll get a gauge to set it.
1960 D17 Gas # 28849
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 6:39pm
That's another thing to consider......will that particular relief valve handle that much volume??   Because if it can't, things could go south rather quickly if the throttle is wide open and the relief valve has to handle 13 ?? GPM ?? when at maybe 7 or 8 GPM it works fine... I'd probably adjust relief pressure at 1,000 RPM first. Then re-check your setting of the relief valve at faster engine speeds until you get to full throttle. If all good, then the only other thing to consider is how the relief will act on a cold winter day when the oil is cold. Maybe that situation won't ever happen.

Edited by DrAllis - 12 Mar 2021 at 6:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bendts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 6:53pm
Well thats what I'm wondering - if it will or is even made to handle it. Still new to the Hydraulic world so I have no idea what the difference is between a Low Volume spool vs a High volume one.

May be a good idea to just get a separate High Vol spool and keep it as an entire separate system.
1960 D17 Gas # 28849
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 7:16pm
That's up to you. I still think 8 GPM would work fine on that valve and maybe 10 GPM would too. That's double the speed (8) you have now and "live" to boot.

Edited by DrAllis - 12 Mar 2021 at 7:16pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 8:02pm
I have no idea how you intend to use this hydraulic system. To me, there are three important features on tractor hydraulic valves that are a must in my eyes. #1. self-cancelling levers that kick out to hold position after a lift or lower cycle is completed. #2. a float position at the end of the lowering stroke, so when you use a one-way cylinder you just throw the lever to float to lower and not make the hydraulics squeal and #3. located at my right hand so I can shift gears with my left hand.  Many after-market valves don't have all these features. A hydraulic console complete with levers from a D-17 IV , 170-175-180-185 have all this and will bolt right on in place with the fender bolts. Something I would consider for sure over anything else.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bendts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 8:44pm
Mainly hobby farm / small scale farm stuff. The loader I have is the Schwartz 1400 with Dual acting cylinders. I will look at those features and see what I can find.

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2021 at 6:47am
For a loader, I wouldn't want self-cancelling valves, but centering valves. I'd sure like float position on the boom arms tho.
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