8070 powershift

Our 8050 ps lost all but 2nd and reverse was bairly there. Nut had come loose on input shaft. Take fuel tank and shift valve body off, ours, you could move shaft up and down a 1/2 inch. At that point you know it needs split in two places. Not sure about putting a 7020 in without mods. 

 - it is doable - but you are looking 40 plus hours...if it your first time.... there will have to be some fabrication for mounts.. you have lost B2 and C2 clutch pacs - almost impossible for both to go out at same time -  get a service manual and air test B2 and C2 - I would remove the valve plate / shift cover  and listen for air leakage and also check the valves to see if they are stuck.. if you do not have a RH fuel tank it is a 30 min job. If you do have a RH tank  you will have to loosen and swing it away to access the shift plate and remove it. While down there look at the housings and how the cab mounts... there are more differences 'tween FWA and non FWA as to hyd hook ups..

Forgot to mention  also  hyd oil started leaking out of front of trans housing. Everything happened pretty much at once. Will do some checking before starting to tear it apart. I have rebuilt 2 others but that was in the 90s. Been trying to remember why, seems one of them had some broken bolts that held the rear clutch pack  together, does that make sense? Also seem to remember that in one that I had to drill some mounting holes larger and rethread them in a gear, think I did something like that or am I  thinking of something else? Did Allis ever recommend slighty enlarging holes in the clutch pack to allow oil to enter a bit faster? Like I said earlier, it has been nearly 30 years since I have been inside one of them and all of us older folks know about our memory!!!!!

They had trouble with the bolts holding the gears on. Allis fix was to replace gears and housing we had the gears drilled bigger and Taped the housing out bigger. Takes a special