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JOHN N/IL 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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 Topic: 8070 powershift
Posted: 29 Jan 2018 at 1:32pm |
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My brothers 8070 powershift in high range only will partially pop out of gear under load when I throttle down fast and when push in clutch to stop.took cover off and the high range gear has end play,anyone have issues like this,thanks john
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D-15IIG65,D-17IVG67,D-17D58,620
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JOHN N/IL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Posted: 30 Jan 2018 at 7:57am |
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Any help would be appreciated, thank you,8070 ps problems
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 30 Jan 2018 at 4:23pm |
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Well, it makes no difference on Power Shift or Power Director. Your problem is in the Range Transmission. You don't say if it is a 2WD or an FWA ?? There is a snap ring in the lower shaft (pinion shaft) that maybe has broken?? and is missing ?? I've never actually been into a range transmission for a range transmission issue. My guess is, whatever it is, will require a complete teardown of the rear end to fix it. There's a reason that bottom "high range" gear has endplay and that is probably why it jumps out of gear.
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Farmerjim
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Joined: 02 Jan 2016
Location: Sharon Wi
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Posted: 30 Jan 2018 at 5:38pm |
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Dr Allis thanks for info. It's a fwa , I don't know if the snap ring is visible or not but I can't see one, if you could pass this on to somebody you know that could help me, it would be nice to have a little more info before it gets split.
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Unit3
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Joined: 17 Oct 2009
Location: NC Iowa
Points: 5576
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Posted: 30 Jan 2018 at 9:37pm |
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Others know more then I, but one little thing to check is under the plastic cover in the cab. The range lever cable is held in place with a zip tie. Over time the zip will lose its zap and let the cable out of its holder.
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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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Farmerjim
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Location: Sharon Wi
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Posted: 31 Jan 2018 at 7:13am |
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Zip ties all in place, range lever in neutral low range gears tight but high range gear moves 3-16" inch in gear or not.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 31 Jan 2018 at 7:17am |
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Mack or Tbran may have seen this scenario. I have not.
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JOHN N/IL
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Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 9:41am |
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Dr you ever had to split an 8000 series ac,any recommendations and or shortcuts,thanks
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DrAllis
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Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 10:16am |
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I've never done an 8000 series (yet) but have done 4 or 5 of the 7000 series. To get to the problem area, the whole rear end (pretty much)has to be torn down. Rear wheel assemblies must come off--put axle keyways to the top to remove and install. Special AC pusher bolts required to break the axle wedge locks loose. Rear of cab has to be lifted a little and blocked up...maybe only a couple of inches. Fuel tanks drained and removed. I'd remove the hydraulic valve stack as an assembly. 3 point hitch lower arms may have to come off depending on your splitting stand/forklift tooling. Rear axle/final drives have to come off at some point. Rear of transmission has to be supported and rear end pulled rearwards with hydraulic pumps left in place. Lift arm housing has to come off and you're getting in pretty deep at this point. Special tooling is kind of required to disassemble the range transmission. This is a BIG job of 40 or more hours labor if you have good equipment.
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JOHN N/IL
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Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 11:26am |
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Holy moly!!!!!thanks again
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LeonR2013
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Joined: 01 Jan 2013
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Posted: 02 Feb 2018 at 7:11am |
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ had to take nap just reading all that 
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Orange Blood
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Location: ColoradoSprings
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Posted: 03 Feb 2018 at 8:37am |
It's really not that bad, yes it is a LOT of work, and as stated there are no real shortcuts, but like the Doc said IF you have the right equipment, it is a fairly straightforward task. If you don't have the Allis factory manual, GET ONE.
If you are going to do it yourself, my best advise in spend the money and build some quality splitting stands. You might spend anywhere from a couple days to two weeks building them depending on many factors, but they will save much of that time mostly in frustration. Most importantly they may just save your life, or body parts. I remember way back in the days when dad and I split his 7060 the first time with out any stands, and looking back, I am shocked we were even able to do it. Since that time we have built some pretty good stands, and I have split three of them entirely by myself, depending on what I am pulling out in some cases under a day, if I stay at it. Sliding them back together, is really nice to have two people, but over the last few years, I have built quite a few more alignment dowels and such, because my dad just isn't as able bodied as he once was. The stands need to have some adjustment to them if you are going to build them, just FYI.
The only "kinda" shortcut I have for you, is building a wheel assemble removal stand. Between myself, my dad, my uncle, my late grandpa, and now a cousin, the family has about 20 of the 70xx series, and a couple of the 80xx series. So many years ago my uncle took some oil well drill stem and built a wheel removal stand. That stuff is I think 3 or 4" outside diameter. He build a box lower frame, about 3' long by 2' wide laying down, put some casters on the four corners outside the frame, so it sits real low to the floor. The long dimension goes under the tractor perpendicular to the wheel, and the tire rests on the long side tubes. Build an upright about 5' tall, and the same 2' width as the bottom frame, (allows you to clear even the large dual hubs) mounted that about 12" in from one end of the bottom frame, put in some gussets on the back side. This stand allows you to raise the tractor, roll this stand under the wheel, lower the tractor back down until the weight is starting to rest on the stand, use a chain and a binder to secure the wheel to the stand, unbolt the cab mount, from the cab, not the U-bolt, secure the cab mount to the wheel, so it doesn't rotate down later when the axle is free, remove the ring gear bolts, and roll the entire wheel axle assemble away from the tractor. Depending on which gasket breaks loose, the ring gear will either stay with the rear housing, or come with the wheel, but make sure you secure it one way or the other, as one hitting the floor from two feet up, will likely be an expensive day. Also the lower torsion tube assemble and shaft will have to be secured as well, it has been a while, and the memory isn't what it used to be, but I seem to remember it can fall apart or go with one wheel, but be prepared so it also doesn't drop. Build two, and leave both wheels on the stand while servicing the rear end. The only thing I think I would do if I were to build a similar one, I would probably build a heavy duty hinge on the bottom of the uprights, and then instead of gussets, I would install something like a 1" turnbuckle or jack-screw on both sides, for some tilt adjustment. adjustment. Take care to keep all of the slop out of the adjustment if you do decide to build stands of any kind, you don't want these very heavy items picking up ANY momentum, ALL movements need to be fully controlled.
Just my $0.02, I am sure there are so many other ways to do it, so flame away
Edited by Orange Blood - 03 Feb 2018 at 8:39am
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 03 Feb 2018 at 10:45pm |
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Orange,I really like your way of pulling axle hsg/wheel and all,together.Makes sense.
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tbran
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Posted: 04 Feb 2018 at 1:56pm |
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All I can do is echo the above - must be a snap ring broke or moved...about the worst possible issue to fix. If I had the issue I would almost look for a salvage donor...
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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MACK
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Posted: 04 Feb 2018 at 10:14pm |
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Sent you and your brother a message. Hope it is top shaft. MACK
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JOHN N/IL
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Posted: 05 Feb 2018 at 8:55am |
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It's not!!!!!
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D-15IIG65,D-17IVG67,D-17D58,620
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JOHN N/IL
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Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 9:26pm |
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Update,it turned out that the pinion shaft is broken so we have to replace that and ring gear , bearings and probably some more!!!
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 9:46pm |
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How does that happen?
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MACK
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Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 9:55pm |
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Have never saw one bake in all my years. MACK
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JOHN N/IL
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Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 10:01pm |
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I don't know but looks like someone was in there before,I think that bearing in front was a John Deere bearing not allis,few others things to like the gaskets on cover plates did not look factory,my brother bought it a year or 2 ago,who knows!!!!!
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