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8050 power director problem-slow hi shift |
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pirlbeck ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 01 Dec 2009 Location: West Central IA Points: 226 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 07 Mar 2012 at 2:49pm |
I have a customer's 8050 in the shop that for the
last several years he has been complaining about the power director
slipping/shifting slow into the hi side. He says it only does it the first
upshift of the day, that it is worse with cooler weather and that it don't do it
all of the time. We have had it here before and we have put pressure gauges on the
low and hi side, but have never been able to replicate the problem. He wants us
to split it and pull the power director clutch out and see if we can find
anything. I have never been a fan of "exploratory surgery" and I am a little
hesitant to go ahead and do it. I am wondering if either the hi side piston seals
or the if the rotating piston/seal rings could be bad or leaking? Anyone ever run into something
similar?? Thanks! pat
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jiminnd ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Rutland ND Points: 2271 |
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Had a similar problem on early 7030, was some large seals, not sure as it was fixed by dealer under warranty.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21359 |
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If you do take it apart, be sure to replace the two discs and two seperator plates and wave springs and piston seals in the hi side at a minimum. There's only two discs, so if they are worn/polished a lot they could do that....never slip under a pull once locked up, but slow to complete an upshift.
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8467 |
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Well,on the lighter side,it isn't hard work-just time consuming.Be sure to have a service manual handy.
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pirlbeck ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 01 Dec 2009 Location: West Central IA Points: 226 |
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jininnd & DrAllis,
I
was working at an AC dealer when the 7030 & 7050 first came out and we got
into quite a few of the early P/D clutches. The piston seals had a problem with
not applying properly with hot oil. The symptoms of that were you would let the
clutch pedal out and the trans lube pressure light would come on and the tractor
would not move. Usually, the operator would start revving the engine up and then
the clutch would lock up and the tractor would take off pretty suddenly. The fix
for that was to drill some small holes in the piston to direct oil under the lip
of the piston seal. The factory fix on new pistons was to machine a chamfer into
the OD and ID of the piston to allow the apply oil to get under the seal
lip.
The
other reason we commonly got into the P/D clutches was because of slow lazy
shifts into hi side. The early tractors used a clutch separator plate that was
stamped out of sheet steel and it was not at all flat. These stamped separator
plates were replaced with a plate that was surface ground, which made the clutch
a lot more aggressive.
We did
both updates to every clutch we were into. |
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