8030 powershift

I have a WD45 and love that tractor but we are in the market for a bigger tractor and would like to know if a 8030 power shift 4x4 with 7300 hours would be a good tractor. My Grandpa always had Allis Chalmers tractors and my WD45 is one he used to own. But I have no experience with the 8000 series and am not sure about the reliability or ease of service. Are there any known concerns with these tractors or any that we should stay away from. Any information will be helpful.

Started with a WD and D17. Now own an 8030 and 8050FWA. If that is a normal 8030 it is probably about 100 hp jump. When I got my 8030 broken in, it is 145 hp and the 8050 is about 175 without touching the pump. I have had PD and both 8000s are PS. Wife and I both prefer the Power Shift. Much easier to shift down to make smooth easy turns and starting heavy loads. Been through the 100 and 7000 series over the years. The 8000s are still ahead of their time with many of their options. JMHO

Sounds good! And I'm not getting rid of the WD45, the farm is just getting bigger. We do have other tractors that are green, but are considering the 8030. I will look into the history of the tractor, as that does make a big difference in whether to buy it or not. Have there been any known issues with the 8000 series that I need to know about or look for? Any general issues with the tractor that I could run into that would make me stay away? Any help is appreciated!
Thanks! Todd B

If your gonna buy an 8000 series, the 8030 is the motor that should run the longest. You have the big block 426 running at a low hp. The 8010 has the 301. The 8030 has the same size motor as the 8050 and 8070. I will throw my opinion on the PS verses the PD. I like the PS on the mower,grain cart, road. PD in the field .
                     IG

7300 hrs I would expect the engine to have been overhauled and the front FWA axle to have been rebuilt with all new U-joints and king pins/bearings. Wonderful tractor when new, but after 7,000 plus hrs who knows.

My 8050 PS has over 11,000 hours on it and tranny, rear end has never been touched. The engine had 8000 hrs and was still going strong, then the core shifted and took out a main bearing which can happen to any colored tractor. Have another 8050 PD almost 9000 hrs only issue freak dust leak took out intake valves and piston skirts. I love both these tractors.

I have a 7045 with the powershift. It's my big tractor. It's at 175 hp and I do all the heavy field work with it. It has a little over 8000 hours. It's had all bearings done every 3500 hrs. Tranny has been rebuilt just before I bought it and I love this tractor. It's all on how it was cared for. Jmo. Shawn

The 8000 series tractor was a very modern tractor and most say ahead of the times when produced, and in my opinion they are still a very productive tractor on most current farms. Having said that and being a current owner of all 4 8000 models would not be afraid to purchase an 8030.  IMO a 8030 being a main/heavy tillage tractor would be a 5000 overhaul window, if it was a row crop planting, spraying, or light duty work it wouldnt be far fetched to get 7000-8000 hrs on an engine givin it was maintained IE :100 hr oil changes, all filters maintained: power shift, coolant, fuel, rear end-hyd, engine oil and such. I beleive that most 8030's did not come factory with a coolant filter, unless they were ordered with one. I think with these engines it was very important to have a coolant filter and change coolant at proper intervals. The manual states to flush coolant system and change every 2 years. It it has not already had  a engine overhaul it is probly very close to needing it with 7300 hrs.

Some other things to check:
-check the front end: king pins usually wear out first with the steering rod joint. Check the oil inside for moisture or silvery metalic evidence. Also the front hubs for weeping oil. If they are weeping may mean that it needs bearings. That was the case with my 8070 anyway.

-Check the crank dampner. When the engine is idling look at it and see if it runs true or woobles. Also look at it not running to see if the rubber inbetween the housing and pulley is not missing rotten or sandwiching out. I have replaced several of these on my tractors. I did find a fella out in oregon who rebuilds them for a fraction of the price of a new one. If needed PM I can give you his info.

-As far as the trans goes...I love the PS. Also have a PD in 7020. It has its place for doing different jobs. However I favor the PS. Pull the dipstick. See what the fluid looks like. Drive the tractor in all gears high and low range. Note how it shifts and if the trans pressure light comes on above 1700 rpms once it is warmed up. If so there may need to have things checked for tranny issues.

-Check the engine breather while running for exteme amounts of blow by, coolant droplets or excessive amounts of oil.

-I always say when looking at a used tractor: look at seat. If it is all tore up and destroyed GOOD chance the rest of it is as well. Look at the filters...have they been marked when maintain and compare them to the tack? ALSO is the nose cone all smashed to crap? It is pet peeve of mine when I look at tractorhouse or other advertisments and one can observe that most have damage to them. What do people do to have this happen??? I have yet to smash any of mine! With most of them being smashed if you could find one that is not it is probly worth buying.

-See if you can find out any past history on it...that is the most valuable knowledge.

One can figure sticking some money into any used tractor just to get it up to snuff and to make it there own. I hope it works out for you to buy it. You will not be dissappionted with an 8000 series tractor. GOOD LUCK

Thanks for all the input! I will use this to my advantage and check this tractor out tomorrow.

I agree with all said above. Dad bought our 8050 PS in 93 at 2200 hours. three years ago it had an o-ring on a sleeve fail at 4000 hours after almost 30 years. time can be as much a factor as hours. It was far from wore out. we did an inframe overhaul,new AC and paint. It's like running a new tractor. So as everyone said above, if it's had a fresh engine fairly recently, it would be worth a lot more to me than not knowing when it was last redone. If it's the original engine, even if it has good power, it may only be a mater of time before you are force to go into it.

that being said, aside from replacing some hydraulic hoses, we have done nothing to it in the 20 years we have owned it. you will not regret buying an 8000 series. just take into consideration that at 7300 hours it may need some attention that will cost real money. And honestly, I would rather buy one that has not had an overhaul for a good price so that I can do it and know that it is done right rather than one with a "fresh overhaul" and not knowing who did it.

good luck

Read the instructions by the clutch. What you are seeing when it stops completely is another clutch disc engages I think that slows/stops the tranny to shift smoother. Depress the clutch almost all the way down not completely and then use the brakes to stop. One of the experts here can explain better.

Motor could maybe done for less than that. Had 8000 in dads 7080 a couple years ago. Put 13000 in a 8070 transmission but it depends on how many new parts have to go in it. I might look at things wrong but lets say you tie up $40,000 total in a 130 hp tractor, I don't think you can buy a new one for plus its about as comfy as a new one. Parts can be a con but if there is no demand for them then they will discontinue them. Good luck on getting a tractor

You could put 12000 in a transmission and another six in the FWA if you can find parts for it. I never was impressed with the 4430. I would rather buy a 7060 or 7045 than a 8030. The ambac pumps were junk on the 8030's and could cause a whole bunch of problems. I'm an allis guy to the core but be careful when buying an 8000 series with FWA unless you know the entire history of it

Tornado...I will give u this. The 8000 series tractors are by far the nicest tractors to operate that Allis ever built. If I could have my 7060 motor in an 8070 with a power director in it I would be a very happy man. I had two 8070's and both nickeled and dimed me to death. I cannot tell you how much I hate any power shift transmission especially AC's. For my operation the power directors have held up better. If I was running a baler I'm sure the power shift would have been fine but I don't bale anymore. I didn't even like it on a 700 bushel grain cart too darn jerky.

I also owned a 7045, and still would if I had not found my 8050 MFWD. So i traded it. Had lots of power, but it started harder than any of my 8000 series do. I really had a tough time keeping it cool too. Had to add to the radiator, but now I have learned it is just best on all my AC to do. 7045 is rated 12 more HP and I had a tough time seeing a difference in my 8030. My 8030 I feel had the most low end torque that I own currently.