8030 2wd Power Director

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My power director just stopped shifting when I turned around at the end planting corn yesterday.  It works fine in low but stays in low when I move the switch to high. I checked the fuses in the fuse panel under the dash and the wires seem to be hooked up under the transmission.  Is there any place I should look for an obvious issue here?

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Amos Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Points: 1318	Post Options Post Reply Quote Amos Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 8030 2wd Power Director Posted: 20 May 2012 at 7:48am
	My power director just stopped shifting when I turned around at the end planting corn yesterday. It works fine in low but stays in low when I move the switch to high. I checked the fuses in the fuse panel under the dash and the wires seem to be hooked up under the transmission. Is there any place I should look for an obvious issue here?

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MACK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664	Post Options Post Reply Quote MACK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 May 2012 at 8:05am
	Lift the clutch pedal with your toe and see if it shifts. Clutch return spring may have broken. Shift down switch may need adjusted. MACK

Amos Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Points: 1318	Post Options Post Reply Quote Amos Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 May 2012 at 11:14am
	Seems to be electrical issue. Should I have resistance if I check the solenoid with an ohm meter? I got it to work and then when the tractor got about 3 miles down the road, it kicked out and the fuse was blown. I followed all the wiring and could find no place where it has rubbed bare or is shorting. Wondering if the solenoid is shorting out? Is that possible?

MACK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664	Post Options Post Reply Quote MACK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 May 2012 at 10:10pm
	Yes, if it blows the fuse the solenoid could be the problem. MACK

Amos Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Points: 1318	Post Options Post Reply Quote Amos Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 May 2012 at 7:17am
	When it is cold on first start it works fine and then it warms up and the fuse just blows. I am going to take the solenoid off and check to see if it has a short in it.

Orange Blood Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053	Post Options Post Reply Quote Orange Blood Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 May 2012 at 7:28am
	I would guess that sounds like a bad solenoid as well. As the oil heats up the unit, the resistance in the solenoid winding goes down, and increases current to the point of fuse failure. To your above question, yes there should be some resistance shown on you meter for a good solenoid, the question is how much, an average for a small solenoid, could be in the 150 ohm range, but it can be anything really, depending on what the engineer designed the circuit for. I would say anything less than maybe 25 ohms is something to look into, but you really need a good reading from another tractor to make this troubleshooting check payout, or you could end up replacing a good part. Wiring could also do the same thing with heat, if you have a very mild short, somewhere in the system the current from the circuit could overtime heat that area, and increase the short, until the fuse blows.
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427435 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 18 Nov 2010 Location: SE Minnesota Points: 18637	Post Options Post Reply Quote 427435 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 May 2012 at 9:08am
	It was a totally different application, but I've had solenoids test fine when cold and short out or open up when warm. Drove me crazy finding the problem.
	Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not.

Amos Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Points: 1318	Post Options Post Reply Quote Amos Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 May 2012 at 10:39pm
	I took the solenoid off today and when I got it off it was apparent to me that it was, if not all, a part of the problem. It is melted (so to speak), and a bit misshapen from what I would think is too much heat from some where. When I select high with the key on the lights on the dash all dim dramatically, lead me to think I have some thing using too much current. I had a hard time finding a solenoid but found one a few hundred miles from me. Are there two different solenoids? I was asked what the electrical connection was on mine and I am wondering if that is the only difference between the two if there are two or are they not interchangeable? I followed all the wiring and there were no bare wires that I could find. I tested the resistance, but it was quite minimal.

Orange Blood Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053	Post Options Post Reply Quote Orange Blood Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 May 2012 at 11:13pm
	Sounds like the solenoid is the problem, without it plugged it, turn the key on, and tap into high side, do the dash lights and everything still dim?? If not, I think you are on the home stretch. They can fail, to the point they cause their own melting, so all sounds like a bad solenoid to me.
	Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7

Lynn Marshall Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2379	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lynn Marshall Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 May 2012 at 8:04am
	Yes,there are two different solenoids depending on serial number of tractor.No,they are not interchangeable.Yes,they can fail as you have described.Check Agco parts book.com for the parts diagram and part numbers for your specific tractor.

Amos Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario Points: 1318	Post Options Post Reply Quote Amos Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 May 2012 at 8:25pm
	I have found one some 100 or so miles away. The dealer said it had been on his shelf more than a few years and he would hold it for a couple days till I got there. I need the tractor for another 50 acres of corn, hopefully tomorrow, and then off to get the solenoid. The lights on the dash do not dim when the solenoid is unhooked.