8010 under powered

To save yourself a lot of wasted time and $$$$, and get a 30 psi gauge installed in the intake manifold to measure turbocharger boost numbers. The first repair to be made is change BOTH fuel filters and to disconnect the fuel supply hose coming from the tank at the water separator filter and route it under the bellhousing (if it isn't already). While that hose is disconnected, make sure it gushes fuel out of it to insure there isn't a fuel tank blockage.  If this tractor has fluid in any tires, it needs to go away. FWA cannot be engaged when on the road as well. Your peak boost number at 2300 full throttle/loaded RPM's should be more than 15 and closer to 18 psi. That tractor will weigh 15K with no fluid which may be nearly double of a 190 without fluid.

I’m with the dr on weight. Your your carrying an extra 190 on the 8010.

We had two 6080s. One 2wd with no fluid and one 4wd with fluid in back. You could really tell a difference between the two pulling the disk bine down the road. The 4wd was always 1 gear lower on hills.

X whatever on fuel filters, AND air filter. 

Mack's comment reminded me of a true 8050 AmBach story from 25 yrs ago. I had a Customer who ran an 8050 for 24 hrs straight in the Fall chisel plowing. He ran the tractor into his shed and shut it down. Next morning he couldn't get it to start. He called me and it took a couple of cans of ether to get it to go, even after the block heater was plugged in overnite. Long story short, the AmBach pump had a problem and retarded the timing and he melted the tops out of all six pistons. A few years later, I had an 8070 do a similar thing...….another engine OH due to an AmBach pump.

Another thing about FWA tractors that is often misunderstood: if you have a 155 HP FWA and compare it to a 145 HP 2wd and use them hauling loaded wagons down the road, the lower HP  2 WD will outperform the higher HP FWA tractor.  You cannot expect an FWA tractors front axle at 19 MPH to spin all those gears for free  !!  Even when not "locked-in" you are still turning all those gears. At 5 to 6 MPH it isn't a problem and the extra traction is a huge benefit in the field. But on the road, the FWA robs HP that normally was used to pull the loaded wagons.

right into the ether injection plug on the intake

Should be a 1/8in plug on manifold somewhere. Get fitting for 1/8in line and get some bulk 1/8in plastic line to run to gauge. Use little rubber o-rings in place of ferrules and tighten just over finger tight(or will crush line). Quick and easy.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 07 May 2019 at 12:30pm

any 25-30 # pressure gauge will work. You can just screw it in, or use a grease gun hose to extend it out for diagnostics. Just measuring air pressure. 

For a boost gauge get a gauge out of a N5 Gleaner.  Have that on my D21 to monitor the engine.

exSW wrote: injpumpEd wrote: any 25-30 # pressure gauge will work. You can just screw it in, or use a grease gun hose to extend it out for diagnostics. Just measuring air pressure.  Doesn't change under load? That's what I've been noticing pulls down to easy.

Also remember the 8010 is geared faster than a 190. 5 mph greater top speed. This will cause the 8010 to drop off in power faster on hills. 

Finally got around to plumbing a boost gauge into my 7010.8 pounds at rated speed in 1st hi pulling a six percent grade isn't to good.

So I should start looking for leaks?

 Your peak boost number at 2300 full throttle/loaded RPM's should be more than 15 and closer to 18 psi on a healthy 8010 tractor.

exSW is working on a 7010, virtually the same. low boost and black smoke tells me either the turbo is junk, or as simple as a boost leak, missing plug, or blown intake gasket.