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7080 wont start

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farmer_rob View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 7:56pm
new to us 7080 starts not bad but runs aswome . but it wont start again once u shut it off. it will crank really fast but its like there isnt any fuel getting there. i noticed no white smoke puffing out of the stack.. leave it for an hr and it will start up first time no trouble. i was told i should be adding fuel additive to help lube the pump. this pump was suppost to have been rebuilt but im thinking it wasnt.. the power is what it is suppose to be so there isnt any lacking there
 
thanks for the help
 
if farming was easy everybody would be doing it
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DougG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 8:10pm
Ive heard of something like that ; the inj pump case swells when it heats up ??? I think its been said to park it hot , run cold water on the pump and see if it starts ??? That narrows it down ; hopefully someone knows for sure
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Orange Blood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 8:43pm
That is a good bit of advise for a no hot start condition on the roosa pumps, the stanadyne pumps have a similar problem, and they are a very similar design.  I wouldn't run "cold" water over it, but garden hose water, would probably be ok, since it will start out warm.  I would be surprised if the pump really get's that hot mounted outboard like it is, but it is sure worth a try.
Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Stratton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 9:00pm
Ive heard the same advice that Doug gave and tried it once with no ill effects.  Our 210 can be a bear to start if it is too hot, and splashing some water on it seemed to help.  Does your tractor have a primer pump of any sort?  If so, pump it up tight before you try to start it and see what happens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 9:41pm
Be sure the delivery valve is installed and that the allen screw that holds it in is tight. Our 7060 was nearly impossible to start when warm when we bought it used with 950 hours back in 1985. To repair this I had to take the inlet end of the pump apart and I think I removed the transfer pump to gain access to the delivery valve. I think my sevice manual from Allis Chalmers has a fairly detailed section on the pumps. RW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 10:43pm
Originally posted by Orange Blood Orange Blood wrote:

That is a good bit of advise for a no hot start condition on the roosa pumps, the stanadyne pumps have a similar problem, and they are a very similar design.  I wouldn't run "cold" water over it, but garden hose water, would probably be ok, since it will start out warm.  I would be surprised if the pump really get's that hot mounted outboard like it is, but it is sure worth a try.
Roosa Masters ARE STANADYNE pumps, SAME thing, just a name change.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2012 at 11:16pm
I put a 7580 engine into my 8070 (so it had the roosa pump) and it acted the same way. It would cold start great, but not when hot. Pouring a bottle of cold water (not ice cold) on the head of the pump would be all that it took to make it start right up. I used that way to get the crop in, just didn't shut it off til the end of the day, all the while running diesel conditioner through it. One day after shutting it off at the end of the day, I thought i'd give it a try starting it again, and it fired right up and has work fine since. Go figure! Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 12:00am
Originally posted by darrel in ND darrel in ND wrote:

I put a 7580 engine into my 8070 (so it had the roosa pump) and it acted the same way. It would cold start great, but not when hot. Pouring a bottle of cold water (not ice cold) on the head of the pump would be all that it took to make it start right up. I used that way to get the crop in, just didn't shut it off til the end of the day, all the while running diesel conditioner through it. One day after shutting it off at the end of the day, I thought i'd give it a try starting it again, and it fired right up and has work fine since. Go figure! Darrel
Hey Darrel that's my trick.....if it's broke, don't fix it- it just might fix itself! AC's have great self-healing properties!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 1:43am
yeah...my 7080 won't start either!....pffft!
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 7:04am
Delivery valve in pump head is bad or spring broke. DON'T put cold water on a hot pump, can cause it to lock pump head.
 The reason they will start cold and not hot is because fuel is thinner hot and will pass by leaky delivery  valve rather than going to injector.   MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmer_rob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 7:24am
so then the fix is getting it rebuilt then or live with it?the idle is very low and its at the point it would stall . do i increase the idle and maybe my problem would go away?
if farming was easy everybody would be doing it
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 9:00am
you'll eventually want to get the pump rebuilt, it will progressively get worse. Darrel's situation is a bit different since his engine had sat for quite a while, so it was likely gummed up. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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farmer_rob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmer_rob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 9:14am
well thats just it my 7080 sat for 4 to 5 yrs without being started.. prior to it being sitting the engine had a complete ourhaul including a rebiult pump. well when i started working on this 7080 to get it going i notice i wasnt getting any fuel past the pump. turns out the shaft was broken. found a rebuilt pump from a 7580 so they say on the shelf at a salavge yard.when the local allis dealer helped me with the tractor put it on the dyno it was only putting out 120 hp. they said it was due to having old fuel. we pumped out old fuel and put on new filter then new fuel.. we got up to 130. i wanted to turn pump up but they sudjested that i give tractor time to brake in again from sitting . im thinking its getting better but dont like the starting issue
if farming was easy everybody would be doing it
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 10:02am
Sounds like a pump and injectors servicing is going to be needed. Could just need all cleaned up & resealed. So the original one was seized from sitting in old fuel? When it was dyno'd was it smoking while putting out 130? I doubt it was. I'd say plungers in pump are sticking. Let me know if I can be of assistance. Ed.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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AC200Puller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC200Puller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 10:52am
Save yourself alot of greif and pull the pump and injectors and send them to Injtion ed . If the pump and injectors are in good shape it will start good when warm or hot. It may just need to be sealed up and a new delivery valve installed and it will be fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ac7080chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2016 at 8:11am
I have a 7080 that we just bought, the tractor has 800 hrs on a complete overhaul, been sitting and it will not start without a shot of ether cold or hot, runs great once started, but if you pull the throttle back to far it will die and not restart unless you ether it, any ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2016 at 9:02am
Welcome to the forum. As some of the previous answers have stated, it sounds like the delivery valve to me. Probably best to just get the pump rebuilt. InjpumpEd can give better information.
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