7080 dual PTO install

All the implements I have are 540 so I decided to convert my latest purchase, 7080, to dual 540/1000 PTO.

This is the parts list I used for this project.

Well done!!!

is their any way to get the pictures back up on this post i would love to see it

The only way, would be for the original poster to upload them again, using the same file names.  This happens anytime someone purges old pictures as there is a limit to how much we can have uploaded at any one time.

Well I re uploaded the pictures, looks like they are there.  Of course I had to delete some others to do it, oh well.  Here is one more I had that was not on the original post.

I did the same conversion to our 7050 by swapping the 7050's 1000 RPM single speed with the dual speed PTO and clutch from our 8030 that just does loader work. 

It's been about a year since I did this. The salvage yard I got the parts from was getting ready to be sold and I knew the owner fairly well so he let me pull the parts myself and charged me $400. I'm pretty sure that was a better deal that normal. The seals/filters from agco were about $300 if I remember correctly.

Thanks for posting the pics. Makes it easier to follow.

So what I am seeing is, you used your 7080 rear end. 7045 guts inside.
I see the 5 bolt pattern on the housing, correct.

Looks like I need to hunt down a clutch pack assembly and lower shaft assembly.
7020 thru 7050 would work ?

I believe that the higher horsepower tractors used 5 friction and separator discs whereas the smaller tractors only used 4.  I would be sure to use a clutch pack with the extra plates in it. They can be added to the pack by just moving the snap ring to a different groove.

Excellent post. Thank you.
I have a 77' 7040 that is leaking oil at its 540/1000 pto. I've purchased an AGCO seal kit for it. When our weather improves, I'll be tackling it. While I'm in it, is there anything else I should check?

Edited by AC7060IL - 02 Mar 2018 at 10:48am

If it is leaking out of that lower rear shaft area I think the biggest thing to worry about would be getting the correct turning torque on that lower assembly, the seal install is pretty basic.   You certainly don't want it too loose.  One of my sockets fit on the PTO shaft to put a torque wrench on.  I guess you could check the large nut before you took it off and somehow put it on the same amount?  I would probably get an inch pound torque wrench for an accurate measurement.

Bump

Been a while since I had one apart, if I remember the 2 gears (540 & 1000) are splined to the shaft and they butt up against a lip in the center part, then you press the bearing on then a snap ring holds the bearing.  Then on the clutch pack side, clutch pack goes on then the drive gear has 2 tapered bearings in it and the large staked nut holds it on and you tighten that nut down until you get 5-10 in lbs turning torque on that gear.  10 in lbs turning torque is fairly snug so it would be a good idea to have a tool to check it.  If the 2 gears that are splined on are loose, possibly the bearing is not pressed on far enough?  I can post some pages from the FSM later when I get home if needed, they might be more clear than me.

So the stake nut only tightens that side of the assembly/clutch pack? And the snap ring holds the gears on the opposite end? Tightening the stake nut will not remove play between the 540/1000 drive sprocket....