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7060 Powershift temp sensor

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    Posted: 09 Sep 2019 at 11:52am
The light on my dash for the powershift temp stays on all the time but will go out if i unplug the wire on the sender, replaced the sender and still does the same thing, now I only have one wire to the sender but both the new and old sender have 2 terminals. If I switch the wire to the other terminal the light goes out on dash but does not come on at all at all. any ideas? 
You can keep that 20,000 dollar Deere, I'll do the same amount of work just as fast with my 6,500 dollar Allis.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2019 at 12:21pm
When things are functioning correctly, and the oil isn't above 220? degrees, that light should only be on when you hit the starter button and then go off when you release the starter button.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC 426 power Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2019 at 1:31pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

When things are functioning correctly, and the oil isn't above 220? degrees, that light should only be on when you hit the starter button and then go off when you release the starter button.
Oil is cold when doing these test, light comes on on first start and never goes off. I tried swapping the wires around again and hitting to starter button and nothing lights up.

You can keep that 20,000 dollar Deere, I'll do the same amount of work just as fast with my 6,500 dollar Allis.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LB0442 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2019 at 5:15pm
The temp sender has 2 terminals 1 is N.O.(normally open) and the other is N.C.(normally closed).  The factory connector was a plastic 2 terminal unit but only used 1 wire for the N.O. side.  It was an L shape so it would not be put on wrong.  I have ran into a few that were replaced with crimp connectors and put on the wrong terminal.  Put the wire on the terminal that is open when cold.  To check the bulb just ground the wire with the key on, should light up.
 
The bulb check is a different circuit.  Depends on a black belly or maroon, they use a different part to do that.  When you turn the key on and push the starter button with the clutch pedal out (starter not working) it will use a transistor to complete the ground for those bulbs, Temp and pressure.  Make sure the dash panel ground is good before replacing parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC 426 power Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 11:27am
Originally posted by LB0442 LB0442 wrote:


The temp sender has 2 terminals 1 is N.O.(normally open) and the other is N.C.(normally closed).  The factory connector was a plastic 2 terminal unit but only used 1 wire for the N.O. side.  It was an L shape so it would not be put on wrong.  I have ran into a few that were replaced with crimp connectors and put on the wrong terminal.  Put the wire on the terminal that is open when cold.  To check the bulb just ground the wire with the key on, should light up.
 
The bulb check is a different circuit.  Depends on a black belly or maroon, they use a different part to do that.  When you turn the key on and push the starter button with the clutch pedal out (starter not working) it will use a transistor to complete the ground for those bulbs, Temp and pressure.  Make sure the dash panel ground is good before replacing parts.
My sending units terminals are marked with R and G, when on R no light when hitting the starter button, no light at all at anytime, but on G I have a light all the time when turning key on and when running. Grounding the wire does make the light come on.   
You can keep that 20,000 dollar Deere, I'll do the same amount of work just as fast with my 6,500 dollar Allis.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 11:56am
Then, it's a bad sender/sensor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC 426 power Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 8:31pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:


Then, it's a bad sender/sensor.
yup that's kinda what I thought, but I did put a new one on and it is still the same, maybe a bad new sender, I don't know, did have it happen once with the coolant sender also a Agco.
You can keep that 20,000 dollar Deere, I'll do the same amount of work just as fast with my 6,500 dollar Allis.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 8:41pm
Cricket board in dash.     MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC 426 power Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2019 at 8:38pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Cricket board in dash.     MACK
Would that be the transistor circuit?
You can keep that 20,000 dollar Deere, I'll do the same amount of work just as fast with my 6,500 dollar Allis.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2019 at 9:34pm
Yes, it is the little circket board behind the idiot lights.        MACK
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