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7060 3 point hitch problem |
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Michael V (NM) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2445 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 08 Jun 2022 at 10:14pm |
Story is, the 3 pt has not been on this tractor since it was new. Was taken off by the original owner, it still has paint on and in the rear hitch balls..now it's back on..
Problem is,it is either 'up' or 'down', there is no in between, also this valve sticks,and will not go down until the lower plunger is pushed back in. I can still hear the pump in stroke(buzzing noise) All linkages look to have never been moved or adjusted ![]() So,what needs to be adjusted,or worked on so 3 pt works like it's supposed to? Lube up up this valve/plunger thing so it don't stick? Do I have problems somewhere else? Edited by Michael V (NM) - 08 Jun 2022 at 10:15pm |
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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If plunger is moving free, I would say you have linkage that is binding. Unhook each rod and make sure every thing works free. MACK
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Michael V (NM) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2445 |
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I'll check the linkages, and get something on that plunger to see if I can get it to free up.
Moving the traction booster lever in the cab seems to have no effect on 3 pt movement. Moving the raise/lower jus a small bit from the lowest position raises the 3 pt all the way up Also the lift arms seem to go to high, in thr raised position, their only a couple inches from the lower cab windows Edited by Michael V (NM) - 09 Jun 2022 at 10:59am |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21406 |
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The lift arms do get close to the cab windows for sure BUT, you do not want the hydraulic pump to continue to pump when they are fully up. You want the arms to come up to 99% height so the internal ram isn't trying to break out the rear wall of the lift arm housing !! I can guarantee your lift/lower linkage and Traction Booster linkages are stuck tight at every possible place they are to be free. Traction Booster lever moved fully to the rear will raise the hitch almost half-way. There is a dimension for this in the Owners manual. Lift/Lower is to be a couple of inches from clear to the top. Each lever has it's own fork that activates the lift/lower spool from the front. The TBoost activates the spring capsule and the lift/lower pushes right against the end of the spool. When you pull half-way back on the lift/lower lever the spool is pushed inward and as the hitch reaches the half-way point, thru the miracle of linkage control, the spool is let back out just to the point of holding the hitch at the height you want. So, rusty/stuck linkage isn't sending feedback signals to the hitch linkage to shut it down when the lift height is achieved. A sticky spool may present you with a challenge. On rare occasions, I have had to loosen the four tie bolts that stack all the valves together to free-up a sticky spool. When I say loosen, I don't mean very much !!! Just a tweak on each nut to release the squeeze on the valve stack.
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Michael V (NM) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2445 |
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Thank you, Mack and Dr. Allis I will get my book out,check all linkages
Are there any links in the console in the cab I need to check? I'll Prolly start at the back of the tractor and work up Seeing how the 3 pt has not been used since new, (was taken off by PO, still had pretty purple paint on it)makes sense that linkages could be stuck Thanks again |
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Michael V (NM) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2445 |
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Ok, update, all the TB linkages move free and smooth, I took it apart at handy places and lubed,moved,lubed some more.still no work right. That damn spool does NOT return to a 'neutral' or hold position no matter where the position control or TB is set, it is either full up(pump stays 'in stroke') does not go down until I manually love tap the large spool in,or forward. Light tap,pump will go out stroke, another tap,3 pt goes down. Loosened the valve stack bolts slightly, 1/4 turn each
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21406 |
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There is no actual "hold" position, just a happy place somewhere in the middle of the stroke where it doesn't lift and doesn't lower. If the spool sticks in, the hitch will come all the way to the top and stay there. Having a heavy load on the hitch might help with the spool operating more freely. Start with the hitch clear down and just pull back very slowly on the position control lever and see if you can't get the hitch to raise and stop incrementally. 1/4 turn looser on the tie bolts might be a little risky.
Edited by DrAllis - 09 Jun 2022 at 5:26pm |
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rw ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 28 Oct 2009 Location: United States Points: 384 |
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Our 1979 black 7060 bought used in 1985 had about the same problem not long after we bought it. Ended up replacing that section of the valve to get it working right because the spool bent and wouldn't move freely in the bore. At that time the dealer had the spool in stock on the shelf. $800 or so. I put it on myself. Worked great and I always check this joint for free movement when near it. And keep it greasy.
It happened not long after we first hooked to the moldboard plow and hit a rock. One of the trip beams was rigged to not trip and we didn't realize this at the time. The mechanic at the local dealer told me to check for free movement of the rod through the joint that is pinned to the torsion spring reaction arm. Our was frozen tight. The spring loaded rod can be pushed by hand and the rod will extend out as the spring compresses. The joint I'm talking about lets you select light medium or heavy draft. Mechanic told me if this joint is not free the shock will go up the linkage and bend the spool enough to bind.
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Michael V (NM) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2445 |
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Dr.A, tried that, jus a small movement of the position control, hitch goes all the way up,moving the PC back to lower does not stop it. I'm hoping 1/4 turn don't spring any leaks,since that didn't help,prolly tighten them back up
rw, I really didn't want to hear that, that part is prolly the only part of the TB that was stuck,,thing is,this is the only time that I know of that the 3 pt has been on since new, I haven't put any load at all on it, jus trying to get it to go up and down. I'm starting to lean to the valve being bad... ![]() I'm not sure how that could bend the spool valve, there are jus some forks that work in a slot back where ya can't see anything.. Edited by Michael V (NM) - 09 Jun 2022 at 6:12pm |
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rw ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 28 Oct 2009 Location: United States Points: 384 |
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I couldn't see how the spool would bend that way but it took the valve section to fix it. we finished plowing by tying a string to the spool and pulling the string while in the seat to get the plow to go down. Dealer had the part in stock and the story to go along with it. I didn't feel cheated, just glad to hear an explanation. They must have seen the failure enough to tell me right where to look.
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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If spool is binding it needs polished to where it moves free. New orings might help. MACK
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Michael V (NM) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2445 |
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Ok, so how does the spool come out? All I got is owner manual,no service/shop manual.
Will it come out the front if the snap ring is removed off the back?is there room to do this on the tractor, or does the valve assembly need to be removed? Sure not much room to work around this area, and my bad shoulders and arthritic hands make thing worse... Edited by Michael V (NM) - 09 Jun 2022 at 10:03pm |
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