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7050/7060 hydraulic valve swap

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Lonn View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 May 2021 at 10:54pm
I have a 7050 tractor and a parts rear end from a 7060 that had the hydraulic valves and rear linkage and the cables which only one cable is good. They are the 1/4" cables and my 7050 has 3/16". I want to swap them to gain the heavier cables, a third remote that the 7060 rear has. Besides one of my remotes is locked up.

I looked on AGCO Parts and they show three different remote levers in the cab on a 7060, depending on serial number. Also there are 3 different yokes connecting the cables to the levers in the cab. The earliest serial group have the 3/16" cables so that is not applicable to me.

What is different in the 2 later serial numbers that there is a different lever and different yokes? Can I use my 7050 levers and just drill the pin hole to 1/4"? Which yokes would I need if I can use my old levers or do I need different levers and the matching yokes to make this work.

I already resealed the 7060 valves and mounted them on my 7050 along with the rear linkage and couplers and so I would like to get this project finished up. Thanks all.


Edited by Lonn - 12 May 2021 at 10:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2021 at 8:25am
I'd imagine the 3 different levers are due to 1, the small/large cable change, and 2, the black chassis tractors did have a little different console, and it seems to me the levers were shaped different. The difference in the first two could just be size of hole for cable swivel. My 7040 had small cables on the main 2, but the third must have been added later as it has the big cable and ends.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2021 at 8:30am
The black chassis models had to have the remote levers stroke lessened so when in the float position they didn't hit the taller park lever. So, the cable anchors are positioned differently and the hole drilled up higher on the lever. The change from the original small cable on maroon chassis required thicker cable anchors and larger holes in the levers. Cable anchors on the valve itself are thicker too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2021 at 10:17am
So I got the valves and rear linkage from a maroon chasis #3858. Not a Black Belly.... so I got it right that all I need to do is drill the holes larger to fit the larger cables and get the the correct anchors in the console? I have the correct anchors at the remote valves at the rear already.


Edited by Lonn - 13 May 2021 at 10:18am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2021 at 12:38pm
I think you're correct. Might have to grind a recess on one of the remote levers, but you'll figure it out when you get in there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2021 at 1:13pm
OK thanks guys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 7:59am
So getting back to this project...... first off I forgot what a pain it is installing those confounded lines from the remote valves. Going from the stupid original remote couplers to the steel pipes and hoses to the better couplers is the goal but not fun to work on. The new style is a pain when you don't have the proper wrenches. I'll have to make a 7/8" line wrench with a proper offset. Any suggestions or tips?

Also that one 3/16" pin in the console for the tall lever..... what a pain in the arse to get that e-clip on without the proper tool. Done it before and did it again with just a needle nose but next time I WILL have the proper tool. 


Next, that same tall lever still uses the 3/16" pin even with the larger cable.... great, no change but it seems to me that if I move that hole just a little higher the stress on the cable would be less so I might do that. Anyhow changing the location of the holes on the levers seems like the thing to do to alleviate the pressure from the bow of the thicker cables. Am I correct if I do this??? Short lever too??? The thinner cables bowed easier so it seemed like no big deal but the thicker cables don't bow so easy to get them hooked up.

The shorter lever BTW has a 1/4" hole even though it used the lighter cable. The ball joint threaded onto the 3/16" cable but had a 1/4" ball stud going through the lever. I assume this was the original set up. Just an observation.  

I am able to obtain a new lever for the third remote and it is for the later, larger cable so I'm happy with that development. Thumbs Up

Also I see that the roll pins for the rate of flow adjustments were supposed to be indexed as per another thread..... I did not do that..... I'll figure that one out on my own but I wish I would have known that one. Stern Smile




Edited by Lonn - 25 May 2021 at 8:08am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron(AB) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 2:43pm
Lonn,

I've changed my 7050 too.   These mods worked very good. The levers move so easy!

There is a threaded adjustment on each end. I had to weld a piece of angle iron on each end with a hole in it to mount the cable.

Look at this:




Edited by Ron(AB) - 25 May 2021 at 2:49pm
405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron(AB) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 2:46pm
405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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