7045 PTO Trouble

I tried playing with the pressure regulator shims to get it up and got nothing for it so I swapped the PTO valve with the one on our 8030 that uses a mechanical locking system to keep it on.   PTO drop out has been trouble free since. 

I never did find the source of the low pressure problem.  Main hydraulics are good and everything else works fine since they got new cables so I left it at that. 

As far as hydraulic cylinder leask go if its fast enough to define as anything more than a slow drip it doesn't take very long to burn up a lot of money on fluid.   1 - 2 quarts an hour only takes one good day of running to dump a 5 gallon buckets worth of fluid out. 

I asked about here before but got nothing definitive other than try adjusting the relief valve shims which didn't do anything, floated  around 275 - 325 PSI regardless  of what thickness of washer I put in to shim it up so that's where the valve swap came into play.   

When I have limited info and knowledge of a system I do what I can to make things work.  They may not be agreeable to some but modified to be functional without problems is better than nonfunctional with problems.  

Besides now that I have become more familiar with the tractor I have come to find has been  cranked, cobbled, hacked on and modified way before we ever picked it up. The fuel pump is turned way  up and can roll coal like a super stock puller so that still need to be turned down.  I've done numerous wiring repairs and redesigns and still have some more to go yet and so on. 

Either way, If there's some other valve or regulator I need to look at I would sure like to know about it.   

I have no problem with taking things apart and fixing them the right way if there is proper information on the what and how to do it provided the factory design isn't idiotic or a waste of money to keep stock to begin with.  

One example is we've never owned a tractor with a torque limiter before but given the issues I have had with that I can see where , as a primary IH owner where an oil seep on a shaft seal doesn't cripple the whole tractors drive system, it seems like a stupid design that's getting defeated/eliminated before getting into flail mowing this fall.  

One example is we've never owned a tractor with a torque limiter before but given the issues I have had with that I can see where , as a primary IH owner where an oil seep on a shaft seal doesn't cripple the whole tractors drive system, it seems like a stupid design that's getting defeated/eliminated before getting into flail mowing this fall.  

The torque limiter is there for a reason, defeating/eliminating it will cost a lot more money in the long run, then just fixing the rear main.

I apologize I do not have the ability to scan them in at the moment, or I would provide them.

All of our machines are older and have  no such torque limiters.  go until they stall is what we have and we like it that way. 

I would be interested in keeping the thing working as stock but for what we use the tractor for it's just not something I can see as being justified.   The only moderately high load implement we have is the flail mower and that has its own clutch set that bonehead easy to work on.  

We don't do heavy tillage and never will so that rules out a lot of hard driveline shock loading issues there. an as I said the PTO work is already either real light or clutch protected in itself. 

As for bolting it solid it wouldn't be drilled and tapped right through the clutch plate but just cranked down to the point where it can be soaking wet with oil and not slip until the engine is maxed out.   The only way I want it to possibly slip is if I dump the clutch at full throttle in 4th or 5th gear high range.  

Does that make sense?  

As a seller it may not work in your favor but that's likely how we got ours cheap which worked to the buyers advantage!  

As for resale... What's that?   The next owner after us is the scrap yard and they certainly don't care if anything works or not. 

When a interlock works and serves it purpose without being a constant nuisance I don't have a problem with them but if anything comes across like the safety interlocks with riding lawn mowers that cause more hassle than they prevent, shift your weight on the seat they shut down, try to back up with the deck on they shut down. that crap, it gets defeated one way or another.  

FWIW if you have a solution to the PTO issue with our 7050 and it's not some major expensive fix I have no problem with switching the PTO valves on it and the 8030 back to where they belong.  Its an easy enough job.   

Mostly it just got done because I had baling to do and fighting with the dropping out any time I hit the power director pedals or hydraulics or just doing it at random plus not being able quickly and easily disengage it due to bungee cord that kept it locked in being in the way. 

Here is the deal, the torque limiter is not anything new.  You mentioned in a post above that you don't have a lot of understanding of the mechanics of these tractors, so please understand we are only trying to help you out here.  The engine clutch on any truck tractor, or whatever built since the first days of the internal combustion engine, is the exact same thing Allis calls a torque limiter on the 70xx and 80xx series tractors.  It is a flywheel on the engine, with a driven clutch disc (friction material and all) and a standard pressure plate.  On every other tractor out there with a dry engine clutch and many older Allis the foot clutch pedal is connected to a clutch fork that disengages the trans from the engine.  Well on the 70xx and 80xx series, there is no clutch fork, but for all intents and purposes everything else is exactly the same.  Allis chose to put the portion that disengages the engine power from the transmission elsewhere, but that is not where you are having your problem.  The reason the oil leak is a problem, is not because it drips a few drips a day, it's over time, more drips add up, and "SOAKS" the friction material, and it looses its friction properties, EXACTLY like the clutch on any IH, or Deere, or whatever will do.  Day one an oil seep will not kill the clutch, but at some point over time the soak is great enough, then a little slip, then bam it's toast, just like any other clutch out there.