This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


7040 Power Shift & Drive Home
 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
  Topic Search Topic Search  Topic Options Topic Options
housemover View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 01 May 2012
Location: Belleville, Ks
Points: 103 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote housemover Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7040 Power Shift & Drive Home
    Posted: 13 Apr 2018 at 10:14am
    Dr. Allis  (or anyone I guess),     Bought a 1976 7040 at a farm sale yesterday.   Tractor is very straight & not abused but has been setting since 2013.   Tractor was started and moved for sale.   It is 30 miles home & I'll probably drive it home.     Thought  I'd change fuel filters & add Stanadyne  to the 5 year old fuel (tank is 3/4 full).   Is there a petcock on the bottom of the fuel tank  & should we try to drain off  5 years of  condensation?     Also this is my 1st  Power Shift Trany.   Is there a trany filter somewhere & would I be smart to change it before the road trip home etc. ?     Thanks,   Housemover
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Orange Blood View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4053 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2018 at 10:43am
If it were me, I would make sure the oil levels (All of them) were topped off correctly, bring the tractor up to operating temperature, drive it around the farm you bought it at for a few minutes, then shut it down, and double check for any signs of water in any of the oils, brownish milky, or foamy oil.  If nothing....hit the road  Fuel conditioner won't hurt all all 
Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21359 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2018 at 7:52am
No petcock on the fuel tanks to drain, but it is very easy to disconnect a hose at the bottom of the right hand fuel tank if needed. If it was mine, I'd probably drain a couple of gallons of fuel to get rid of any water on the tanks bottom, while paying attention to the overall look and smell of that old fuel. Adding fuel conditioner won't hurt, but it won't mix very well unless you put it in while filling the tank.  A new fuel filter would be smart, as you don't know how long the old one has been on there. Hopefully, the tractor has been shedded all this time, so rainwater getting in where it's not wanted isn't an issue. Checking transmission (in the cab) and hydraulic oil levels (sight glasses) is imperative, as is the engine oil level before taking a drive. Also, it will mean climbing up on the front tire, but check the radiator and be sure you can see coolant above the radiator core at least. Do not fill clear full as it will vomit out the excess when warmed up. Down 3+ inches or so is about right when cold.   Have someone follow you and stop a couple of times to be sure there are no serious leaks of anything. Proper tire pressure is important. A long drive like that would be good for it as long as this are as they should be.
Back to Top
housemover View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 01 May 2012
Location: Belleville, Ks
Points: 103 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote housemover Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2018 at 3:57pm
  Thanks guys,    Warming up & rechecking before hitting the road sounded good.   Also Doc,  I see what you meant by no drain plug & fuel line to remove which brought me to another question.   That fuel line appears to also be a cross over line to an aux. fuel tank on the off side of the tractor.    Was that aux. tank an option as I don"t remember  one on some other 70 Series tractors?   I thought  (and I could be wrong because It"s been a long time)  there were some filters on the off side for the Power Shift trany.   If so does that little tank need to be removed to service filters?    I see the large trany filter behind rear axle.    I own 14 old allis tractors to date but have never owned a power shift any advice on operating for dummies .  
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21359 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2018 at 4:11pm
Auxiliary fuel tank (13 gallons) was an option on a 7040.  99% of them had it.  Power shift filter is at the right rear corner under the right lift arm. Both hydraulic filters are underneath the rear end.  Get an owners manual so you know how to change them.
Back to Top
victoryallis View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Location: Ludington mi
Points: 2877 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote victoryallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2018 at 7:09pm
I drove our 7060 home like a 130 miles.   It sat for about the same amount of time yours did. I dumped some fuel in jump started it and off I went. It only had the upper 6 speeds at the time. The 7080 I had the help drove home 40 miles.
8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
Back to Top
MACK View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Points: 7664 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2018 at 9:57pm
I agree with orange blood, drive it around in hi and lo range far a while to get lube to range transmission.    MACK
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21359 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2018 at 7:31am
I only knew of one 7060 that seized the range transmission while driving it down the road. It was very early Spring when the weather was cold and he didn't make it only a mile or two. That tractor had last been used in the Fall. Cold transmission oil temps?? and not flowing freely enough to lube the low range gear ?? It surely is a catastrophic failure when if happens.
Back to Top
housemover View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 01 May 2012
Location: Belleville, Ks
Points: 103 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote housemover Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2018 at 11:28am
    Everyone,   I think beings there's plenty of time before field work I'll wait until middle of this week when the temps are supposed to be near 70 to bring it home.   Then do the warm up to operating temp, drive around sale farm slowly to lube trany, recheck fluids, etc. & then start the drive home.   What gear sequence should I use 1st for 10 minutes, 2nd for 10 minutes, 3rd , 4th,etc. etc. etc.   Or just low in both ranges  or what,  or should I say what in your opinion gets trany lubed up the best?    Also am looking for a A/C manual so I don't have to ask so many dumb questions.   Thanks for the level that everyone shares on here it sure is helping to keep Orange Power Fever alive.
Back to Top
Orange Blood View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4053 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2018 at 12:27pm
Just put it in low range, start in 4th, drive around a little bit, say 30 seconds or so, and then go through all the p/s gears including reverse, listen carefully for any noise that doesn't sound right, any sluggish shifts, slipping, delayed shifts, or worse no shift at all.  Then high range, no need to get over 4th on the P/S high range in the yard, unless you have the room.  There will be some slight whine, but it shouldn't be pronounced, I know that is not a measurable term, but nothing should stand out.  Just get the oil good and warm then check.  It will take a while longer to get the rear up to temp if even possible when cold outside and no load, so just do your best.  If nothing pops up in your check, drive it home in high side 6th, and I always run about 100-200 RPM short of wide open throttle.  Don't ask my why, I just was taught that way.  If the governor is set up right, you really shouldn't have any problems at wide open throttle. 

One thing I like to point out, please don't use the foot clutch trans brake to stop the tractor motion, while the P/S trans brake uses two clutches applied at the same time to stop the trans making it much more beefy than the P/D trans, I personally believe it is still best to use the foot brakes.  One of our 7060s with a P/S was heavily used as a loader tractor for custom hay grinding, even though we used the foot brake "most of the time" when approaching the grinder, guess which two clutches had warped plates, the last time I went through the trans?? 


Edited by Orange Blood - 15 Apr 2018 at 12:33pm
Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
Back to Top
MACK View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Points: 7664 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2018 at 8:52pm
3rd to 4th shift may seem weak but normal.   MACK
Back to Top
JohnCO View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Niwot Colo
Points: 8992 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 1:04am
The 7040 I bought on Big Iron last week had been traded to the AGCO dealer because they thought the rear end was going out.  One of the family members I bought it from worked at the dealership and after work checked it out a bit as he didn't think it was the rear end.  Discovered it had a bad clutch brake cable.  Talked to the salesman and made a deal on it, I guess he didn't mention what he thought the problem was,  ordered the cable and drove it home a few days later, the salesman wasn't real happy...
"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
Allis Express participant
Back to Top
Tbone95 View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 31 Aug 2012
Location: Michigan
Points: 11964 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 8:46am
Originally posted by victoryallis victoryallis wrote:

I drove our 7060 home like a 130 miles.   It sat for about the same amount of time yours did. I dumped some fuel in jump started it and off I went. It only had the upper 6 speeds at the time. The 7080 I had the help drove home 40 miles.
That's quite a trip! 
 
I've driven my combine 35 miles a couple of times......that was long enough for me!
Back to Top
victoryallis View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Location: Ludington mi
Points: 2877 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote victoryallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 12:48pm
I bought a gooseneck since the 7060 adventure but even at that it would be a heck of a load to control. Reason for driving the 7080 home was it came with a offset disc.
8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
Back to Top
exSW View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 21 Jul 2017
Location: Pennsylvania
Points: 914 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 8:40pm
I think after that thirty mile drive I'd have a drainpan,a complete set of fluids and filters and drain and change them while it was still hot.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.125 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum