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ebowman 
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Joined: 06 Sep 2018
Location: Kirklin, IN
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 Topic: 7030 hydraulic problems
Posted: 06 Sep 2018 at 12:16pm |
Needing some help with my 7030:( With the tractor idling the 3 point works fine but the remotes are very weak and jerky. There is also a ticking sound and the large oil line that goes to the remote valves is shaking. It's like high pressure oil coming back to the valves but no where to go (makes a ticking sound). Ticking stops while raising 3 point, softens while lowering. Filters have been changed, oil level is good. I need help!!
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 06 Sep 2018 at 2:17pm |
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You have owned this tractor how long ?? And did it do this before you changed both hydraulic filters under the rear end of the tractor ??
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ebowman
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Posted: 07 Sep 2018 at 5:27am |
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I have been using this tractor for about 10 years. The problem developed and I changed filters hoping to resolve it.
I picked up a small magnet last night. Going to try to pull the poppets out of the valves and make sure they are ok. I have a recording on my phone but can’t get it to load
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DrAllis
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Posted: 07 Sep 2018 at 7:13am |
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Connect a 3,000 psi gauge to the TEE on the side of the PTO valve. Stand-by pressure needs to be 350 to 600 psi and I lean towards the 600 psi number. Activate a remote lever and the pressure should then go to 2300 to 2500 psi. Until you get this gauge you know nothing about the system. I assume the power steering is 100% OK ????
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ebowman
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Location: Kirklin, IN
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Posted: 07 Sep 2018 at 7:19am |
Correct.. steering is fine. I'll get a gauge on it this weekend
Thanks
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tbran
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Location: Paris Tn
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Posted: 07 Sep 2018 at 10:36pm |
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you did pull the caps out of the old belly filters and put them back in the new filters? A 'trap door' just barely opening causes a cavitation like issue - if the stand by pressure is correct
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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ebowman
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Location: Kirklin, IN
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 8:16am |
i put a pressure gauge on the tee at PTO valve. initially i had 300-400 psi. added shims and pressure came up to 600 psi. what I have found is an issue in the pumps. I didn't pull it off yet but have found some oil leaking out of the side cap that is to the left of where i added the shims to increase stand-by pressure. also when this pump gets to pulsating or fluttering i feel something pecking at this cap. I didn't pull the snap ring off and look into the pump. when the pump is fluttering the pressure on my gauge was going from 300-1000 psi or 600-1200 psi.
What you all think? bearing out in pump? spring? messed up piston?
Thanks for the help so far!!
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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T-bone_indy
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Location: Indiana
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 10:12am |
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Mine D-19 i just got has the same symptoms you describe. I will be watching the post to see what comes about.
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D19-AC916-Kubota B2150- Wheel Horse charger 12
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CAL(KS)
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 10:19am |
 T-bone_indy wrote:
Mine D-19 i just got has the same symptoms you describe. I will be watching the post to see what comes about. |
these systems are completely different and have no parts in common
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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T-bone_indy
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 10:23am |
good to know.. So D19 should have a clicking and the hydraulic line pulsating? thanks
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D19-AC916-Kubota B2150- Wheel Horse charger 12
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DrAllis
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 10:27am |
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What pressure does the 7030 have when each remote lever is stroked to raise and lower ?? Should be 2300 to 2500 psi and STEADY. You are checking this pressure four times if you have two remote levers. D-19 pumps make noise like that and even more noise if they have a bad cam roller.
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ebowman
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 10:30am |
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without a cylinder connected to the remotes... when we operated the levers, no change in pressure was seen. when we operated the 3 point up pressure would jump up to 1000, down... no change
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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ebowman
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 10:36am |
 Here is a picture of the leaking cap where I can feel the “clicking”
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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DrAllis
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 11:02am |
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When you activate either remote to raise or lower (NOT FLOAT) the pump should stroke up and provide 2300 to 2500 PSI. You don't have to have any cylinders connected. I'm not there, but I'm leaning towards something internal in the pump itself.
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ebowman
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 11:49am |
Fair enough... I really appreciate all your help with this. I'll get the pump tore apart and see what i can find
Thanks again
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 10 Sep 2018 at 12:40pm |
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Pulling the snap ring and that thin cap won't let you see inside the pump. The needle bearings for the swash plate to pivot on are behind them. There is an o-ring behind the cap that could be replaced to fix that leak. I think that you have a bad piston in that pump.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 16 Sep 2018 at 7:04pm |
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What was wrong with the hydraulic pump ????????????????
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ebowman
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Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 6:53am |
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Haven't had time to tear into it. Dry weather came so been baling hay. Also, been working on D17 and rotobaler. Not enough hours!! The 190XT had to step up!! I'll keep you posted
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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ebowman
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Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 11:11am |
 I got pump tore apart. No broken springs. No broken pistons. Showing some signs of wear. Does it look worn enough for failure? Shaft splines, back plate, spider, piston control show wear. The pivot looks messed up.
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 11:22am |
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If that end plate is worn as much as it looks in the picture, I'd say she's trashed.
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ebowman
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Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 11:25am |
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It is... maybe worse. So the big question. It’s 45 years old( guessing). Is this “normal” wear? Should I be scared to buy a used one? Where the best place to get a pump?
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Oct 2018 at 4:06pm |
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You haven't owned it all of it's life. You have now idea how it was used or how often the rear end oil and filter were changed. You have no idea how many times it has been run low on oil. I've only seen this a couple of times. Should be plenty of good used pumps out there in Salvage yards. 7010 thru 8070. N-5/N-6 combine pumps can be made work. I would never install a used pump without at least removing the four bolts and inspecting things like the wear on that end plate. This is one reason I have never been fond of tractors that get the hydraulics used to power a sprayer pump for 8 hrs a day. Maybe that is what it did in it's previous life ??
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ebowman
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Posted: 19 Oct 2018 at 7:11am |
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Looking at the parts book, there are 3 different piston pump numbers. One has a shaft seal and the other two look the same. Does it matter which one I would get? Mine had a shaft seal.
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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DrAllis
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Posted: 19 Oct 2018 at 7:26am |
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Tractors never had or needed a shaft seal on the piston pump ??? Well, I see AGCO Parts shows a seal, but I don't remember that. Shaft seal would make no difference good or bad. Anyway, tractor pumps also had a 3/8" hole drilled in the drive bearing wall near the top for case drain oil to escape, versus the N5-6 combine pump.
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