7018 AC Welding Rod

i was going to sugest 316 stainless if you only have ac,   6010 5p+ will run ok  on ac and is high penitration i dont know what 7018 is the best on ac  but i only use atom arc or excalibur.      but  my opion is just get rid of the ac welder and get a cheap little ac dc miller thunderbolt,  this coming from a diehard linclon guy that has had one of those little millers for thirty years

I had some 7014 that the Flux started falling off it was so old. I threw it in with some scrap steel. My main stick welding rods are 6011,6013 and 7018 and Stainless. I also have a Hobart Wire welder running 0.35 wire with Argon/Co2 mix. Can't use the wire welder outside much as I don't have a curtain for wind.

I may go to a different store and peruse a little bit.  I stood there quite a while reading packages and charts and so on.  As I recall, 7014 was not available there.  There was one grade there they mentioned on their chart that sounded intriguing for what I was doing, but they didn't have it on hand, I don't remember what it was.  I have some old 7014 at home, and I mean OLD, like probably 30 years plus, been sitting in the barn.  I can easily strike, and lay the most beautiful bead you ever saw with that stuff,  . . .and not penetrate AT ALL, guessing it's so old it's junk.  

Edited by Tbone95 - 08 Feb 2023 at 7:00am

Here's an article on understanding Low Hydrogen Welding basics.https://www.fabricatingandmetalworking.com/2014/08/understanding-the-basics-of-low-hydrogen-stick-electrodes/

Edited by klinemar - 08 Feb 2023 at 3:32am

7018 is required for certification on pipe / structures at Power Plants , Oil Fields and most Construction. It does have better penetration... I would guess a good portion of the guys that use 7018 got that idea from the place they worked . I know i did.... 7018 was known s the "professional rod" and 7014 was known as the "home version".... nothing wrong with  7014 for most jobs where your working with mild steel... not an alloy/ higher carbon content.

I have an old refrigerator that I wired the light bulbs that keep my welding rod warm and anything else as I don't have a heated shop.

 The  old time guys call 7018 drag rod in that they ran it with much smaller gap than other rods. No matter what rod I always want it hot, so just keep turning the heat up. I think one of things that 7018 helps with is the slag comes off easy. Getting slag off for the next pass can be over looked by us armatures some times in our hurry to get it fixed. After watching a you tube of a real pro, you can almost just lay the 7018 DC rod down in the v and it keeps the arc going.

Just last month I bought a box of Hobart 7018AC by mistake. By the time I realized it the box was opened so I was stuck with it. Was building a wood splitter at the time and the welds were important so I played with it on scrap before using it seriously. Not sure what it is exactly but is but its definitely NOT tbe old standard 7018 rod. It runs more like 7014 and the welds are more brittle than 7018 but not quite as brittle as 7014. It restrikes easily like 7014 also. That being said it ran nicely with my Miller 300 DC reverse polarity. For giggles I tried AC and it was easy to run on that also. Your issues are something other than the rod and AC current. All low hydrogen rods need to be used dry to retain the low hydrogen qualities. Notice I said USED dry which is different than kept dry. A 7018 that has been damp and then dried is no different than one that has been kept dry. For infrequent use like most of us farmer welders there is no need to keep a rod oven running 24/7 so we can use it once a month. What I do is seal a pound or so of dry rods in a zip lock bag so I have a few for quick repairs. If the bag gets low or working on a project the box is warmed over night and kept warm for the duration. I have a 2x2x2 steel rod cabinet and a 60 watt bulb works great.

Edited by Butch(OH) - 07 Feb 2023 at 6:29am

welding on 30 degree metal is not a good idea.. I would use a propane torch to warm up the area about 6 inches in diameter prior to starting.. As you weld, the surrounding metal will warm up more to transfer to a larger area.   Room temp ( 70 -100 degrees) is good enough for 7018... Same for the rod.. dont need to be HOT.

Edited by steve(ill) - 06 Feb 2023 at 4:18pm

For a project i was doing I bought a 50lb tin of 7018 and then the trouble started , stuck, sputter , and every other problem one could have , 
 Took rod back to where i bought it - was mismarked as was 7018 DC rod . 
Well was stuck with it as can was opened - 
 Sat in shop a couple years until I bought my POW CON inverter welder - Welded good on DC reverse , no special storage or moisture preventive and just stored in cabinet with other rods but in plastic tubes and capped . 
 Now with Wire feed and 70S wire and argon/CO2 shield I seldom use coated rods . 

DMiller wrote: Commercial sites with 7018 rods store them in air tight tin containers until do a rod pull for use, then they are placed in a pretreat oven at around 300-500 dependent of critical function requirements, degrees for a few days to burn off any excess moisture then kept at 250 degrees for prior to immediate use storage.  As a welder needs rods for a job there are X number of pounds of rod transferred to a heated tote rod carrier(I have two), that unit can be kept plugged in at a powered site area to keep the rods dry.  Either way rods are discarded at end of day as moisture will be recollecting in the flux and rods will have questionable capability for certifiable welds. For us on here, Fire off the little woman's oven 4-500 degrees, cook up a few tens of pounds of rods, keep in a fridge with a lightbulb to keep moisture pushed out or as I do and slip into the heated tote until job is done then re store, and should last a number of small jobs.  When they get icky to use by sticking or flux separating, do as real welders do, trash them, or use as gap fillers.