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7010 Starter Issue

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calico190xt68 View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jan 2017
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    Posted: 24 May 2023 at 10:38pm
I have had a bad run on electrical issues over the past week with my 190xt and the 7010.  Seems my 7010 has a bad starter although my prior experience with starters are they usually give you a few warnings before going out.  It just went out all of a sudden.  I checked with my voltmeter the volts going into the external regulator on top of the starter off of the battery cable and connected to the ground wire going into the starter and it had 12.87 volts.  So, I conclude that the starter has power.   It won't turn over at all.  I hear no clicks.  I do see the red light on my dash light for oil pressure.  I also tried jump starting it with a screw driving bypassing the ignition switch and clutch switch and it won't do anything.  Am I correct in thinking it is the starter?  Any other tests to do?  Unfortunately it is in a hay field 6 miles down the road.  Tough to debug and would love to get home.

Any help is appreciated!
80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2023 at 5:49am
Turn on the headlites. Now (carefully) jump the starter from the top battery power post to the signal (white wire) wire post. If the headlites go OUT, you have a bad connection somewhere probably a battery cable at the battery posts. If the headlites stay on and no starter action it has to be the starter or you're doing something wrong.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanWi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2023 at 9:05am
Having that kind of year here. Pickup truck needed 2 new batteries. Made thru winter had to jump it if it sat for a week and was really cold but once running it would start, ran into town one day in April and it had a chance to charge but that was it no more start left in those batteries. Use the neighbors tractor and planter to plant corn. He took the starter in this winter and they put a new solenoid on it but when he put it back on he said it turned over slow. When we filled the planter with fertilizer we shut the tractor off and it wouldn't restart. Hooked jumpers to it but nothing. My brother was here that day and he said we should take the cover off the end. Found the brushes were bad they hadn't checked or replaced them when it was in. Squeezed them together and got it to start. Last one my 200 doesn't get used that much battery was old so I kept a maintainer on it, started it one day . It started ok, parked it back in the shed, and it was dead. Almost sure it was the starter. Took it off and jumped it with a battery and starter turned, so went and got a new battery for that. I was going to try a combine starter on my 200 but it is an inch longer and it is not notched for the tractor frame on the mounting base. Put everything back together and a new battery solved that. You can sometimes test and have 12 volts at a battery but not enough amps left in them to turn a starter.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2023 at 9:52am
the BIG TERMINAL (BATTERY) is cable from the battery... You said you have 12 v there... The SMALL wire ( starter CONTROL) is 12 volt pull in for the coil , when you turn the key ON and have the clutch switch closed..... Are you putting 12v to the COIL SMALL WIRE to pull in the coil ?  If you do and you do not hear the CLICK, then the starter coil is bad, or terminal heavily corroded.


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calico190xt68 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2023 at 12:27pm
Thanks Steve and Dr.  I don't fully understand how I was getting 12.8 volts to the  starter and 12.8 volts from my batteries and it wouldn't start, but I replaced my batteries and that fixed it.  I found a high amount of corrosion all over the terminals and as I understand it, that is a sure sign your batteries are bad or going bad.  The high amount of corrosion also caused my positive battery cable to look very bad.  So, I have ordered another one.  It is possible that changing the batteries and reinstalling the cable caused a better connection.  I did clean it and try it and it didn't start.  Voltmeter said 12.8 volts directly attached to each battery so that's why I thought they were good.

There was another tell tale sign though on the batteries being bad that convinced me.  I have a JD Bale Trak Pro Monitor in the cab and it would not turn on.  According to Ag Express, they need almost 13 volts or more
to turn on.  So, once I exchanged the batteries, it started working and tractor started.

Being an amateur electrician is tough but I am making progress.  I got hay baled and out of the field.
80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2023 at 12:35pm
I always like a load test with a REAL tester not a parts store wanna be. 
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Tbone95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2023 at 1:14pm
Those corroded cables and connections are enough to show voltage but not deliver amperage enough to start. Volts are like pressure. All you have to have is a tall full tank of water to have pressure at the bottom. All you have to have is a battery not doing any work to show it has voltage. Amps is flow. And all that corrosion is resistance to flow. Back to the water tank, do you have a pinhole leak ( lots of resistance) or a 4 inch pipe wide open (very little resistance)? You have potential in both cases, but only the ability to perform work if permitted to flow easily
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2023 at 1:27pm
YEP... think of taking several small AAA batteries from a flash light and connecting them together... You might read 12v whith 8 of them connected together.. but its not going to do anything for the starter... You need AMPS (FLOW) to make the starter work.... Bad cables or Bad battery would either do it.
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calico190xt68 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2023 at 8:23am
Originally posted by Tbone95 Tbone95 wrote:

Those corroded cables and connections are enough to show voltage but not deliver amperage enough to start. Volts are like pressure. All you have to have is a tall full tank of water to have pressure at the bottom. All you have to have is a battery not doing any work to show it has voltage. Amps is flow. And all that corrosion is resistance to flow. Back to the water tank, do you have a pinhole leak ( lots of resistance) or a 4 inch pipe wide open (very little resistance)? You have potential in both cases, but only the ability to perform work if permitted to flow easily


Thanks for the explanation.  I will use my multimeter to measure flow or Amps as well next time.  I looked to see the amps required to turn over the starter and none of the descriptions mentioned it.  I am guessing I should see 900 Amps or more with multimeter?
80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigal121892 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2023 at 4:22pm
I don't think you are going to be able to measure the amps with a multi-meter, as that will be way to much amperage for a multi-meter to measure. To measure amps that high, you will need either a stand alone clamp meter, or a clamp meter that plugs into your multi-meter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2023 at 6:44pm
You dont need to measure AMPS... Measure VOLTS.. When the starter or solenoid engages, you will see a voltage drop from 12.7v  .... if it drops to 12, you are OK... If it drops to 8 volts, you have a bad battery or corroded cable ... assuming the starter is OK.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BigGuy1000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2023 at 7:07pm
Measure the volts at the starter terminals, not at the battery!
You can also measure the amps if you wish, but you will need a very expensive 1000amp DC clampmeter (Fluke 80i-1010) which plugs into your multimeter($500+)!!!
I have one, paid 400 many years ago....


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calico190xt68 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2023 at 9:01pm
Obviously I have a ways to go on learning about troubleshooting with multimeter. I did measure the volts at the starter but since I was alone in the field I couldn't turn the key and measure volts at the same time. I suppose I could take a screw driver and jump start it to see the voltage drop while watching the multimeter. Thanks again for hints.
80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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