7010 adding returns for corn planter

New to the forum and have a question that hoping I can find some help. Got a customer that just converted his JD 7000 planter to Precision Planting outfit on it. To make a long story short the hydraulic oil is getting to hot and not cooling. Co-op who is a dealer and did all the work said to turn down the flow of the remote for planter motor to 10 GPM. Ran the planter for 1/2 an hour and oil temperature was 220 degrees at planter motor. They have the planter motor plugged into number one remote with a small zero return line from planter motor back to rear end of tractor. They removed one of the sight glasses and shoved a fitting in the sight glass port and there using that has what I call zero return for motor. Pressure line and return line are about the same temperature so I now the oil isn't getting cooled. Zero return line is a little cooler only 15 degrees cooler. So I removed the motor return line from remote coupler and let the tractor cool off and took the hose and stuck into the filler neck. Ran tractor again for 1/2 an hour and oil temperature was better 190 degrees for planter motor. Now the question is there has to be a better way to dump the motor return oil so it’s sent through hydraulic oil cooler and then back to sump. Instead of going through the couplers and control valve creating back pressure and not cooling. Also looking at installing a better zero return line back into sump. Anybody have ideas? I think if there was way to add a power beyond valve to tractor it may be better. This is the Co-op saying oil temperature gets hot to fast. I would like to see the hydraulic oil temperature around that 170 to 180 degrees. Tractor is a power shift.

That's what I used to turn the flow down to 10 GPM for the remote.

The planter needs to be set-up for a closed-center hydraulic system, not an open-center system. You cannot tie your hyd lever into position with a piece of wire or a bungee cord !!! This will create extra heat. Make your detents so it can't kick-out.

Not using a rope or bungee cord to hold lever. Detent is doing that job. Never give it a thought that planter is set up for open center system no closed.

I have a precision system on my planter that I pull with my 7050, the hydraulic drive should only take 3-4 GPM to run it at maximum speed.  I use the test port on the PTO valve for my oil supply to the drive motor, and the return which MUST be 0 PSI like you mentioned is returned directly to the sump.  The one remote I tied back with a bungee cord and that drives the fan for the positive pressure on my white planter, and the other remote is used to run the markers (3 point mounted planter).  Sounds almost like something else is wrong with the plumbing to create that much heat.  The only time I've seen a system heat like that is when I had used the COOP's nitrogen applicator and they had put a hydraulic driven pump on the applicator to inject the fertilizer.  There was a small orifice to regulate the pump speed by restricting the flow.  This worked just fine for everyone else since most people around me had tractors with closed center hydraulics, but my 190 XT doesn't, so I had to monitor the oil temperature and stop to let it cool every so often.  Is the other remote being used for anything to help circulate oil to the cooler?  On the closed center system, adjusting the output flow wouldn't make any difference on the oil temperature since the drive motor on the planter is a closed center valve that only allows the needed amount of oil through the motor.  The biggest issue on the remote valve flow is to have enough flow to properly supply the drive motor.

What about finding an old Cyclo planter and using the pto pump? That's what we put on our air seeder.

Planter has ball type couplers. I think I have the problem solved with the heat did some testing and just need to plumb it on the tractor. Been working on getting the tires and front axle moved in for 30" rows which hasn't been easy, but got it done to today.

Did you put a ball type coupler in that housing? If it's working satisfactorily, fine. But a flat face coupler would provide freer flow. Good on getting it working.