7000 powershift/pto clutches rebuild

My 7000 black belly decided to let loose of 6 gallons of hydraulic oil while I was round baling today out the Powershift plate somewhere (still have to go look when it cools down), and since I was just going to wait until the last field was baled to tear down the powershift and pto, I figured I'll just finish up the last one with the Ford and go on and start working on this tractor.

I read the manual and it says to work on the PTO clutch, you need to remove the torque tube.  I am just wondering what the best way is to go about this?  I plan on resealing all the clutch packs in the tractor and checking the discs for wear that calls for replacing.  I seem to also remember there was something you could do to one of the clutch housings, like machine in another grove or something for a seal.  Is this right or am I thinking of something else?  Additionally, it slowly transfers fluid from the rear end to the transmission/hydraulic/powershift sump, which I believe is the PTO seal from when I removed the 3pt housing a few years ago.

When I took the powershift valve off last year, I pressurized the different clutch packs with air, and 1st and 3rd range packs were both bypassing a lot of air where the 2nd range held nearly all of the air pressure, so I am thinking I have bad seals in there causing rough shifts, rare occurences where the tractor will not engage in 1st range, and the PTO to kick out of gear. 

If anyone has any tips for this job, like how to best work around the cab, how to remove the torque tube without the fancy splitting stands, etc, please post them, because I'm looking for any help I can get on tackling this job.  Also, do you think it would be worthwhile to go on and just tear the entire transmission down to reseal it and replace the reverse idler where it has some teeth pretty badly worn down?  I just want to get it done correctly while I am inside.

Thanks,

Hurst

I was thinking that and then I read the manual for the PTO clutch, and it says double split and remove the torque tube?  It says something about removing a snap ring from the back and then pulling the rest from the front?  I hope there's a way to do the PTO clutch just from the front. 

Hurst

I was thinking of resealing the PTO clutch for a couple reasons.  One is that I can't get input shaft seals to hold on this tractor.  I've put in 3 and all 3 have started to leak pretty soon afterwards.  Would the PTO clutch be able to spray oil on the input shaft or do something else that would cause seals to not hold, or do I just need to replace the needle bearing, seal, and sleeve the shaft (figured I could heat up a speedisleeve and it should expand enough to slide over the shaft).
Secondly, the tractor's PTO will kick out when I shift the powershift when warmed up.  This may be the powershift seals, since I know I have 2 packs that are not sealing with air very well.  If it's not much more work to redo the PTO clutch when I redo the input shaft seal and needle bearing, I would probably go ahead and do it while I have it apart so I know everything is new in it, but if it's a lot more to do that, I may wait.  I guess the best thing to do would be to do the powershift clutch pack, then run it a while with the leaking input shaft seal just to see if that solves the PTO disengagement problem when shift, and if it doesn't, then do the PTO clutch?

Hurst

Thanks, Fred!  I don't think I'd be able to do 90% of the repairs without the help of the people on this forum!  100 times better than any service manual. 

Hurst