7000 Cab Mounts

Got new cab mounts ordered for our 7000 and was wondering how hard are they to change and are there any tricks to doing it? Its a maroon belly.

Edited by Andrew(southernIL) - 19 Feb 2011 at 10:04am

Please post back on how good/bad it is.  My Black belly needs all 4 eventually, but definitely the front ones in the next couple years.  If you get the chance to take pictures, please snap a couple.

I was looking at my 7060 today I dont know if its the same as the 7000 but do you take the floor out and change them or do it from the outside? If you take the bolts out and jack the cab up would that work?

Has anyone, or could you even, put airbags under the cab??

Andrew(southernIL) wrote: My guess would be if the air bags gave too much it would affect the linkages of the hydraulics. Since the right side mounts front and back are gone on ours Im hoping these new mounts will help the lifting of the 3-point cause we have to yank the handle back as hard as we can and it just creeps up. Hope the mounts fix it and and not have to work on the valve body.

Hurst wrote: Please post back on how good/bad it is.  My Black belly needs all 4 eventually, but definitely the front ones in the next couple years.  If you get the chance to take pictures, please snap a couple. Hurst

Finally got around to changing them on our maroon belly, forgot to take pics though. It took me maybe 2hrs and I didn't really know how to do it and did it with a dirt floor shop and bottle jack. I disconnected the linkages on the valve body, cause the maroon belly uses a solid linkage straight down to the valve body and not cables, and loosened the console so it could move and set a jack on the rear housing and unbolted the rear mounts and jacked rear up and changed them ( left the nuts off but U bolt through the mounts though ). Then set a block under the rod the battery tray slides on and put a jack on that to bring that side of the cab up to change that one and had both front mounts loose in this process and started the bolt with new bushing but didn't tighten it. Then moved the jack and block and jacked the other side up from behind the steps, it was by far the hardest to change do to having to reach around the fuel tank, then tightened everything down and was done. Also greased the rubber before sliding them in their holes and they popped right in that way. Doing this fixed my problem with the 3-point lifting, it now lifts with ease and can pull lever back and let go while it raises itself and clicks itself to the hold position which I can't hardly remember it doing before, so this job should have been done a long time ago. If you have anymore questions let me know. Also I only had to fold back the rubber mat to access the front bolts I didn't have to take anything out of the floor.


Edited by Andrew(southernIL) - 17 Mar 2011 at 8:49am