670T Gleaner vs 8000 series

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   Hi all, I know this has been touched on before and I did a search but didn't find what I was looking for; 
What is different between say a late L3 670T engine block and an 8000 series engine, specifically the 8030. They're both rated at 158hp but from memory they can't be swapped without some modifications. ....just can't remember what they are. 

Back story, my 8030 started pushing air into the coolant.. leaking around one of the sleaves, block corroded, pulled already and at the machine shop. They are going to have to get oversized sleaves and mill those to fit after cleaning up the block.

Or, find another block, but all i can find locally is combine blocks. 

I'm more of a "bird in the hand" type and would rather work with what i've got rather than invest more into a mystery engine only to find it needs work too. but thought I'd ask. 

Thanks, Matt

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Northern Hoser Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 19 Feb 2020 Location: Canada Points: 119	Post Options Post Reply Quote Northern Hoser Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 670T Gleaner vs 8000 series Posted: 06 Mar 2025 at 1:58pm
	Hi all, I know this has been touched on before and I did a search but didn't find what I was looking for; What is different between say a late L3 670T engine block and an 8000 series engine, specifically the 8030. They're both rated at 158hp but from memory they can't be swapped without some modifications. ....just can't remember what they are. Back story, my 8030 started pushing air into the coolant.. leaking around one of the sleaves, block corroded, pulled already and at the machine shop. They are going to have to get oversized sleaves and mill those to fit after cleaning up the block. Or, find another block, but all i can find locally is combine blocks. I'm more of a "bird in the hand" type and would rather work with what i've got rather than invest more into a mystery engine only to find it needs work too. but thought I'd ask. Thanks, Matt

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tbran Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3481	Post Options Post Reply Quote tbran Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Mar 2025 at 2:34pm
	They are the same. 670 - The front covers are different. The cranks on the highest hp are counterweighted but not the L3 or 8030. Front Pulleys are different. Fuel pumps may be different. Also. That is a very expensive way to fix the block . There are sleeves to press in the bottom if that is what is needed. We use an epoxy similar to JB weld to fill in the pits and hone to fit std sleeves tight. They have to fit tight - vibration = electroysis. Also it is rare for a sleeve to be the source of pushing air into the coolant w/o putting water in the oil.
	When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21385	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Mar 2025 at 2:38pm
	The year the engines were built helps see that they are the same casting. 8000 series was 1982 and up. As far as I'm concerned, you can go all the way back to 1973 with a 7030-40-45-50-60-80 and 7580. Block casting numbers will be different, but I can't think of one change to the block casting that would keep you from utilizing it in an 8030. Plug the piston cooling holes is about it.

Northern Hoser Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 19 Feb 2020 Location: Canada Points: 119	Post Options Post Reply Quote Northern Hoser Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Mar 2025 at 2:45pm
	Alright thanks! thought there was more than that Basically it looks like this coolant issue was going on before i bought it, I ran it for a bit before realizing it was pushing air. I pulled the head, rebuilt it and put it back without pulling the liners. That bought me some time but the issue came back. It looks like its been getting by the liner at the top where it sits on the block long enough its pitted etc. Expensive yes, but at this point I want it done right. Thought of the JB weld route but she's already at the machine shop. Thanks, Matt

Northern Hoser Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 19 Feb 2020 Location: Canada Points: 119	Post Options Post Reply Quote Northern Hoser Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Mar 2025 at 2:50pm
	Also I finally did start putting coolant into the oil, but only just before I pulled it apart. Matt

Northern Hoser Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 19 Feb 2020 Location: Canada Points: 119	Post Options Post Reply Quote Northern Hoser Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Mar 2025 at 2:56pm