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Johnwilson_osf 
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Joined: 29 Jul 2012
Location: Mount Bethel PA
Points: 941
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 Topic: 6080 Oil Leak
Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 10:06pm |
So I have to replace the radiator to the 6080. While I have it off, I am hoping to address some oil leaks and was hoping that you all might have some insight into things. Oil Leak 1: I am leaking oil up front. I assume it is one of the gaskets on the front cover. Someone once mentioned that this was a common place for leaks to happen. When I look at the parts break down, there are two gaskets there. Which one is more likely, or do I change both Oil Leak 2: The turbo return line has a small leak where it goes back into the block. The copper pipe, and associated hose that connects the return pipe is loose. I tried to encourage it back in once with a wooden mallet, but it still leaks. It came out, because I had to replace the starter, and removing the top pipe made the starter come out easier. However, the connecting hose was sealed on the lower copper pipe, and oops, it came off. Oil Leak 3: In preparation for taking everything apart, I cleaned the engine. I used my pressure washer and got rid of the gunk, grime and dirt. I was hoping to run the now clean engine to see if I could see any other oil leaks. However with the leaky radiator, I did not want to chance the engine overheating. When I went to inspect the engine the other day to get ready to disassemble, I saw that the injector side of the engine was oily. It looks like all four of my injectors are leaking oil. See the following pictures. Please note, that I have not run the engine since it was washed, so all of this oil is coming out on its own. Any thoughts on how to stop these leaks, especially since the machine is going to be without a radiator, so I have easy access? Thank you, John    
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Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2
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allisorange
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Joined: 27 Mar 2010
Location: perkins, michig
Points: 381
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Posted: 05 Dec 2016 at 6:48am |
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Your leak by the enjectors is most likely the valve cover gasket.
John Carlson
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victoryallis
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Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Location: Ludington mi
Points: 2878
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Posted: 05 Dec 2016 at 7:29am |
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Why are you replacing it? Found it was much cheaper to recore mine. Find a good radiator shop they might work miracles for you.
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8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Points: 7664
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Posted: 05 Dec 2016 at 7:51am |
The front cover leak is the back gasket. If dowel pins are not tight in both block and front plate, it will leak again later. If they are real loose, look for cracks in front corners of oil pan.
Turbo return line, drive a tapered punch or a socket in tube to expand it to fit the block. Leak at injectors, remove valve cover, clean every thing, glue a new gasket to valve cover with 3M 1099 glue. Put valve cover on a flat surface with weight to hold gasket in place over night. Throw away Phillips head bolts and replace with 1/4 x 3/4 bolts. Torque to 144 in lb. Retorque again later. MACK
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: 05 Dec 2016 at 8:44pm |
 victoryallis wrote:
Why are you replacing it? Found it was much cheaper to recore mine. Find a good radiator shop they might work miracles for you. |
Yep, there are no replacement rads made for the 6000 tractors. Recore the one you have. I had the one from my 175 recored. Well worth the money. Most likely it is your crankshaft seal leaking. Did the one on my 6080 not long after I bought it. Also, as mentioned above, your fuel injectors do not leak oil! The leaking oil that area is from the valve cover. I just tightened up the valve cover bolts and my leak vent away.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Johnwilson_osf
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Joined: 29 Jul 2012
Location: Mount Bethel PA
Points: 941
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Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 7:16am |
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Thank you all for your help. I apologize for using the word replace. Yes, I knew that the radiators are not available. I have found a shop that will repair the current one. (Although I hope that they can based on the holes in it)
I will get a new Valve cover gasket, and widen out the Turbo Return line.
What about the front end. what is the best way to replace that gasket and make sure the dowels are tight.
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Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
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Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 9:25pm |
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Will need to remove motor or make dowels to hold lifters up while you remove camshaft. If you can move front plate at all on dowels after every thing is cleaned up
you will need new dowels and new front plate or rebuild holes in front plate. MACK
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