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rudyk 
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Location: camdenton,mo
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 Topic: 6080 not starting need advice
Posted: 26 May 2018 at 6:28am |
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Shut off my 6080 then when to restart and nothing. Found the charging wire was broken. Fixed the wire and jumped the battery, tractor fired and died. Now I can get power to ignition but soon as I go to crank it looses power and will not crank. Any advice is appreciated, Also what is best procedure for engaging pto, sorry for long post, I'm not very mechanically inclined
Thanks again, this a great forum with tons on knowledge
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DougS
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 6:36am |
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Recharge the battery and see if that helps. You may need to replace the battery as running a cranking battery down to zero will sometimes kill it for life. If you have an open wire from the alternator, that may have killed the alternator as well.
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rudyk
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 6:50am |
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The batteries tested good
It seems as soon as key is turned to crank it will loose power, although sometimes it will crank start and then loose (electrical) power and die
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DougS
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 7:09am |
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That sounds like a battery connection. Clean and tighten all battery connections at both ends.
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rudyk
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 7:42am |
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I hooked a jump box to starter and it still has same issue, this makes me think it's not the batteries, but I am unsure
Could it be ignition switch
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WNYBill
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 7:59am |
Engaging PTO: There is a clutch handle (long lever on right) and a gear engagement (push/pull on floor on the left). Always run the tractor with the clutch lever forward and the gears disengaged(down), only pull the clutch lever back to temporarily stop the PTO. Hook up implement, pull clutch lever back, idle tractor and pull gear engagement (on left) up. Ease clutch lever forward to engage PTO. Running the tractor with the clutch lever pulled back puts pressure on the crank(simple explanation of Fiat abomanation).
Your 6080 is a Fiat tractor with a Allis engine.
Bill
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MACK
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 8:04am |
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If key switch is bad, it could die when you turn loose of key. With a test light check for current at pump with key in run poison. MACK
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rudyk
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 8:05am |
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Thanks bill
That's the way I have been doing it
In the manual it stated to turn off tractor and thought that was odd
I probably misread it
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rudyk
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 8:50am |
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Mack
I have intermittent power at pump
When key is in on position I have power at pump, when I turn key to crank I loose power
Also after I turn it to crank then back off I have to wait a few seconds before I get power at pump again
Basically I turn key to run I have power, try to start loose power. If I try to immediately restart I will have no power. Wait 10-20 seconds I will have power at key again, if that makes any sense
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LB0442
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 9:04am |
Here is a wiring diagram. Looks like the fuel solenoid goes through 1 connector from the ignition switch. The ign switch has a circuit breaker on it. Could be the breaker or wire or switch. Probably would check for steady power to the switch also. They have 2 circuit breakers on the firewall for power also. Old tractors who knows who hacked up wiring just to get by and left it (before you got it)
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rudyk
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 9:28am |
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Great
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 26 May 2018 at 11:49am |
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Sounds like a bad connection. Get one of those battery post cleaning brushes and thoroughly clean each post and clamp on the batteries if you haven't already done so. Follow each cable to the ends and make sure they're clean and tight.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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rudyk
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Posted: 03 Jun 2018 at 1:30pm |
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Little update
Charged batteries cleaned terminals.
Hit the key fired right off, let idel for ten minutes ran great.
Turned off fired up and died again.
The only way I could keep it running was to start and hold key in crank position.
This makes me think the ignition switch is bad.
What do you guys think.
Really appreciate you guys and this site for all the knowledge
Thanks
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DanWi
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Posted: 03 Jun 2018 at 1:56pm |
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Does that have a cable to shut off the fuel pump or is that have an electric wire to your fuel pump? Just hook a small jumper wire from your fuel injection pump to the positive side of battery and see if it stays running that would mean that wire is not getting power.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 03 Jun 2018 at 4:37pm |
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Holding the key to start position is not going to be good on your starter if its engaging it while the engine is running. It sounds like the key switch is bad.. Key switch is not an expensive item. Replace it before you mess your starter up. That’s a much more expensive item if you damage it.
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rudyk
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Posted: 03 Jun 2018 at 5:03pm |
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Dan
I ran a jumper from battery to injection pump and it stays running. How does that wire get power.
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rudyk
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Posted: 03 Jun 2018 at 9:04pm |
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Ran a jumper from battery to run side of ignition and it stays running. Makes me think the ignition switch is bad also.
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LB0442
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Posted: 03 Jun 2018 at 9:23pm |
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I would probably run a jumper for the black wire with the white tracer off the switch to the pump also. That would show you it would either be the switch if it still did it, or it could be the wire or the connector on it if ran good with that jumper. Those old connectors and wires can have problems.
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rudyk
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Posted: 03 Jun 2018 at 9:52pm |
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Thank you I will try it tomorrow
You guys are a life saver
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DanWi
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Posted: 03 Jun 2018 at 10:25pm |
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I went back and read a few of the other posts sounds like an automatic circuit breaker somewhere in line by the switch it could just be that the breaker is getting weak or you have a bad switch causing more power draw kicking the breaker. The pump turns on and off with the switch either directly or with a rely not sure on that.
Edited by DanWi - 03 Jun 2018 at 10:28pm
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victoryallis
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Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 8:24am |
 DanWi wrote:
I went back and read a few of the other posts sounds like an automatic circuit breaker somewhere in line by the switch it could just be that the breaker is getting weak or you have a bad switch causing more power draw kicking the breaker. The pump turns on and off with the switch either directly or with a rely not sure on that. |
My 8760 Deere had the same symptoms end up being the fuse that powers the run signal to the pump.
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8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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rudyk
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Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 5:33pm |
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Dang
Replaced the ignition switch, I’m still losing power to injection pump.
This is driving me crazy, is there a circuit breaker in between ignition and pump wire
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 7:55pm |
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No breaker from the looks of the wiring diagram. Black with white tracer wire goes from switch to the injection pump solenoid. There could be a connection problem where the dash harness hooks to the engine harness right behind the engine. Check for power there or continuity of the wires from one end to the other.
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AllisFreak MN
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Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 9:27pm |
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Could you run a new wire direct from the battery to the pump with a toggle switch? It is kinda crude but necessity is the mother of invention so they say.
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Bob in Md.
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Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 9:27pm |
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There should be 2 circuit breakers above the starter. replace both Napa has them same problem I had
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rudyk
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Posted: 08 Jun 2018 at 3:31pm |
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Found a bad connection in harness going to switch
Thanks for all the help
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