6080 motor dilemma

He'll need to drop the oil pan on both and pull the crankshaft pulley and then the timing gear cover. If you are going to use the combine injection pump on the combine engine, rotate the engine in normal rotation and align the marks inside the window on the inj pump. Then, pull the injection pump gear with the driveshaft out of the pump (after tying the throttle lever to full wide-open), noting the "DOT" on the driveshaft tang and how it was orientated into the pumps drive socket. Dot to Dot is how it should be. Unbolt the inj pump adapter nuts and let the pump hang from the lines. The injection pump idler gears need to be removed next. The camshaft has to be pulled out, so the means remove valve cover and rocker arm assembly and get the lifters pushed up and rubber banded pinched together two push rods at a time to keep the lifters "up". Remove front plate with hydraulic pump drive and swap it over to the combine engine that has the inj pump hanging there by the lines. Press inj pump gear off of the shaft and install the shaft back into the pump (new umbrella seals) without the gear. Gear can be installed later as the front end of the engine is built. Reassemble everything else. If you marked every single timing gear when the pump marks were lined up, you should be good to go.

About 12 years ago i did a swap from a gleaner F2 to my 6080. the front housing was different, the exhaust manifold too and the turbo lines also. I think you also have to use the 6080 back plate.  i have run the gleaner engine with the tractor inj pump as it has a way different torque curve than a combine. It had no low rpm torque with the combine pump.  the oil pan may also be different. all screws i would clean or replace and locktite in place.  There also may be some holes for small screws on the left side of the block that will need to be cleaned and locktited so they dont leak oil.  set the valves too and replace valve cover gasket. I have 4 6080's and this one does not seem any less peppy or harder to start than others.  Some have   the deutz-allis badging with all the updates.  You can get good rebuild parts from reliance power parts. (16:1 pistons etc)  i change my oil/filter every 50 hrs  and have done basic mntce since the swap like the owners manual says. For the money if it is a good motor i would just run it. Mine has run great.   I did not put on the support for the crank and run with the pto in fwd position and have not had any problems. If u have one put it on.  I would also change themostat and water pump and rad hoses too along with a rad flush.  When it has major problems I would rebuild it then.  For feeding it is better to be in a heated garage/barn all the time but If you want it easier to start outside when it is very cold  plumb in a temro recirculating heater and you can plug it in at -40 and start it in a hour. I would also heat the rear end fluid as cold starts are hard on hydraulics. for all the 6080 owners with the later style hyd pump northern hydraulics has a excellent cost effective updated replacement at a good price. mine gave up last year and looked to be the original one.  There is no tractor that can do the work that a 6080 can for the price reliability and economy in all weather conditions. I have fed at -45 and 110. i wish they still made them.