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JPortzy 
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Joined: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Iowa
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 Topic: 5020 Electric Clutch field Assembly burned up
Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 1:31pm |
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I have a 5020 that the front electric clutch went out a year ago, I use it to run the snow blower. I bought the new clutch and it worked fine for the first 5 snowfalls this year then the field assembly (Electromagnetic coil) burned up. I called back to parts dealer but they will only sell the full clutch assembly ($750) does anyone know of a AC Clutch for a car or truck that is the same dimentions?
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Alvin M
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Joined: 24 Jun 2018
Location: PA
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Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 3:51pm |
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check 1652356sm simplicity and 5208 in google some cud cadet are the same
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 5:52pm |
If you know the shaft size, bolt pattern, etc, you might see if surpluscenter.com has one... 
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MACK
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Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 7:52pm |
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Does Agco still have one year warranty on parts? MACK
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 7:52pm |
'burned up' as in FRIED....?? It physically got hot, melted wires and stuff ?? I ask because the coils either fail... 1) broken wire called an 'open' or 2) shorted and usually 'burn'.
If it's 'open' it may just be the solder joint where the connector wires are attached, kinda easy repair. If it's 'fried', 2 choices... 1,wire opened and minor damage, can be resolderd/taped. 2 but some copper 'magenet' wire and make a new coil.
I've seen a few in my days(JD ,Ford, Cubs). biggest problem is the connector/ wires dangling. bad. vibration allows them to rub and short out or open. They should be menchanically secured,tieraps work fine or black tape.
Also(20-20 hindsight) put a separate 10 or 7.5 amp fuse inline with the coil power. All of them only draw about 4 amps. If the fuse blows you need to CHECK the wiring BEFORE you replace the fuse.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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john(MI)
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Location: SE MI
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Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 9:11pm |
Might want to check the blower and make sure everything is free and not scraping or binding.
There is a 5020 parting out on the classifieds section. Might want to check that for a source.
The inline fuse idea is a good idea. I think one of the fuses in the little fusebox on the dash is for the clutch. Might want to check that out as well.
I know it's risky but maybe you could bolt the clutch together and run it the rest of the winter like that if you don't have a warm workspace to work on it.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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JPortzy
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 31 Jan 2019 at 8:17am |
The blower had a rock binding it that most likely contributed to the field assembly burning up. It got hot enough that it melted the coating over the coil and broke/melted the wire harness. the inline fuse did have a 30 fuse in it, That should have blown first but for some reason it did not. I will check the cub cadet models and see if something matches up.  
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DiyDave
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Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 31 Jan 2019 at 9:14am |
I'd also think about putting a 1/4" shear bolt, somewhere in the driveshaft, too!
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 31 Jan 2019 at 10:24am |
HM ...OK she's FRIED, though I have seen worse. 30 amp fuse is way too high ! Coil should only draw about 4 amps, so a 10 amp WILL blow before terminal damage is done. Maybe give you a chance of fixing before total meltdown. Most of the ones I've worked one were 'potted' in epoxy but if can get a 'donor' one, the coil may physically fit, then it's just soldering 2 wires, some heat shrink and 'good-to-go'.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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JPortzy
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 31 Jan 2019 at 2:33pm |
the field assembly that burned up is 5 inch OD and 3 inch ID and the hole for the shaft is 2 inch. Could I possibly replace it with one that is 4.5 inch OD with a 2.5 ID? both are 12V. 
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DSpears N IL
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Location: Rockford,Ill
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Posted: 31 Jan 2019 at 8:16pm |
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Hi Joe
No that field will not work for you in that clutch
Is there numbers on the back side of the field?
Or do you have any part numbers from when you bought the clutch previously?
Possibly a 5208- 55 or something similar to that.
Possibly a part number related to the replacement for the 5020 tractor?
We can find out about a replacement field hopefully!
DeWayne
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JPortzy
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Posted: 01 Feb 2019 at 8:20am |
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I got lucky, I found the junk bucket that I tossed the old clutch into. The Clutch was shot, but the field assembly was still good. I am going to install that one and double check the wiring, fuse, and add a shear bolt. hopefully I am back up and running this weekend.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 01 Feb 2019 at 10:10am |
After you install and confirm it's OK, put ammeter in series and see how many amps it draws. Probably 4.... if so put a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse in series. 5 might 'pop'. Go as low as you can. Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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