'47 AC WC

just bought a 1947 AC tractor no.wc167507 dont know much about tractors but thanks to the Ky Derby I won a lil extra cash and bought this one been overhauled now i need to figure out how to add a bush hog or belly mower and a plow no hydraulics though any ideas ? or pictures of what this unit may have looked like when original would be greatly appreciated id like to keep it up for shows but still work it a little

Edited by dbaileyky - 03 May 2010 at 8:29pm

Welcome to the Forum! You are certainly in the right spot for advice on these great tractors.

First welcome to the forum. That is a pretty nice looking WC you have there. It looks pretty much original too except for the add on toolbox on the right side and the WC decals. Although Allis never put them on a WC a lot of people do when they repaint them. The flat spokes would have had steel rims with lugs instead of rubber tires on rims.  The only thing I see missing are the headlights. They mount on each side in the tube just under and ahead of the gas tank.
 One test showed 29.9 HP on the belt pulley for a styled WC. Here is the test data.
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/0/9-allis-chalmers-wc-tests.html
If the previous owner updated to WD45 or D17 crank you could get upwards of 45 to 50 HP easily out of her.  Charlie

thanks for the link interesting facts..I gave $1300.00 for it funny the link said that was about the cost new.. so are the spoke on rubber original? It has alot of pep to it bigger crank could have been possible..is it that simple just replace the crank= more hp? on the side i see some have a small pully can i put a hydraulic pump there? did they originally .like i said its my first she isnt going anywhere i miss my first car my first truck im a keeping this rider..i know its not show quality to the pros but id ride her in any show

The flat spokes never came from the factory with rims and rubber tires. Look at where the spokes meet the rim and you can see the weld. I believe most styled WC's that came with rubber had cast centers with a steel galvanized rim. In 47 tires may still have been hard to come by because of the war, so flat spoked steel wheels were used.
 To keep the compression ratio somewhere near normal the pistons would be changed along with the longer stroked crank. You could easily have minor changes made to your engine that would give it more power without changing the crank.
 WC's never had hydraulics from the factory. Adding hydraulics to a WC has been done in several ways. The belt pulley isn't the best place because it stops when you push the clutch in. You can add a live pump between the magneto and the governor housing, if you can find the pump. Many were used on M Farmalls to make live power. A front mount pump can be done and look pretty clean if you add a brush guard around it. There are PTO pumps out there that have the reservoir built in. The PTO pump would not be live either.
 There are trip plows out there available. No need for  hydraulics. You can by used trailer type bush hog mowers pretty reasonable too and put a manual jack on them to hold the cut height you want. A Woods L306 belly mower would make a good addition if you want a lawn mower and hand lifts are available for them. The Woods mowers are finish mowers and won't handle brush well at all. A bush hog type will handle heavier junk but not finish like a lawn mower.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 04 May 2010 at 7:03am

Unless you specifically want hydraulics, I would get trailer plows and implements for it. They can usually be bought very reasonably, unless someone things they are a "priceless antique". You can find something to do almost anything you need to get done. They have trailer type plows. harrows, culivators, finishing mowers, flail mowers(bush-hog), sickle-bar mowers( for hay), dirt scoops, scape blades/boxes, not to mention all kinds of hay equipment that is either PTO powered or ground-driven. I can't remember, was the PTO(which he has), 540 RPM or what speed?

A word of caution on any PTO-driven equipment you may want;

Any implement that has moving parts that are subject to build high levels of inertia(like a bush-hog) will push the tractor when you try to stop. The PTO is directly coupled to the transmission input shaft. Even if you push in the clutch, the transmission and rear wheels will keep going, because the bush hog flails have to " wind-down" to stop. This can be dangerous if you need to stop quickly. All of the older tractors with PTOs did this. Live PTO was a good thing!

You can buy a device I always heard refered to as a "ratchet". It installed on the PTO shaft between the tractor and implement. It was built just like a ratchet that you use to remove bolts. It will apply torque in one direction, but will slip or "ratchet" when attempted to be turned from opposite direction. This will keep the tractor from running through the fence, wifes' rose garden, ditch, public road with traffic, etc.LOL! Very good investment.

 

PTO is 540.

i know this is a silly question how do i know if its a 6volt 12 volt or 24 volt?? it has a hot ground but when we tried to jump the battery it melted the clamps off the cables we reversed the clamps (hot was ground ground was hot)the previous owners kept the hot ground off the battery..may be some kind off issue there..

starter is connected to the negitive post on battery and ground is connected to positive post is that correct it starts ok other than push button on starter stickn if amp meter is correct its running around 10 to 12 amp