426HI Combine To Tractor

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I an told that the front plate has to be changed. The holdup is with the cam timing gear. I am told you can pull it off to get the plate off, but once the tractor plate is on, you can't put the gear back on. That the cam has to be pulled and the gear pressed on. What if, the gear was heated red hot? Could it expand enough to go back on? I think there is a bolt in the end of the camshaft. With a red hot gear, could the bolt pull the gear back on?  

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Unit3 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 17 Oct 2009 Location: NC Iowa Points: 5595	Post Options Post Reply Quote Unit3 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 426HI Combine To Tractor Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 4:59am
	I an told that the front plate has to be changed. The holdup is with the cam timing gear. I am told you can pull it off to get the plate off, but once the tractor plate is on, you can't put the gear back on. That the cam has to be pulled and the gear pressed on. What if, the gear was heated red hot? Could it expand enough to go back on? I think there is a bolt in the end of the camshaft. With a red hot gear, could the bolt pull the gear back on?

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Lonn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29805	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lonn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 6:22am
	Pull the valve cover and rocker arm assembly and pushrods. Push wooden dowels into the lifters in place of the pushrods and put a rubber band around every two dowels so that the dowels are left holding the lifters up and away from the camshaft. Now you can pull the camshaft and press the gear on. That's the right way to do it as far as I know. Making the gear red hot will ruin the temper. You could try putting the gear in hot oil. I've never done that except to bearing cups. I've heated flywheel ring gears and crankshaft gears with a torch just enough to see a slight amount of smoke rolling off. You have to be careful not to heat up too much though. That's worked good for me in those two applications but IMO it would be better to remove the camshaft like I said earlier. Maybe Dr. Allis or Mack or someone can give better advise.
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Jordan(OH) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Celina, OH Points: 1563	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jordan(OH) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 9:06am
	what tractor?

Butch(OH) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lucerne Ohio Points: 3842	Post Options Post Reply Quote Butch(OH) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 9:51am
	We put a military generator engine in our 220 and had to do the motor plate swap. Not knowing any better we pulled the damper and front cover and after we removed the bolt we used a hydraulic 3 jaw puller to remove the cam gear and swapped the plate. We made a simple pusher from threaded rod and some good washers to push the gear back on the cam and been happy ever after. A-C mechanics (2) have told me "YOU CANT DO THAT!!!" Something about end play or ??? But,, we did. In fairness I guess our gear came off easier than most. When we pushed it back on it comes to a solid stop same as it was before. End thrust on the cam did not change and is in spec. It is easy to see how things could get FUBAR by a person who starts prying on the cam gear to remove it or beating on it with hammers and punches to install it. You cannot beat on or push against the cam to install the cam gear! You must build a puller/pusher that holds the cam and pushes on the gear. Dont try to pull it on with the bolt either. You need a threaded rod or bolt with enough threads so you can turn a nut against your spacer. If your gear is fast to the cam none of this means a thing and you need to remove the cam in a manner of your coice.

Butch(OH) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lucerne Ohio Points: 3842	Post Options Post Reply Quote Butch(OH) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 9:54am
	I would add that by the time you buy all the gaskets you need to do the swap you are as well off to just buy a complete set and youll have a head set for spares.

Kevin in WA Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 08 Feb 2010 Location: Lynden, WA Points: 612	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kevin in WA Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 10:31am
	I would also pull the pan and change at least the rod bearings and bolts.

Kcgrain Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 794	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kcgrain Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 1:21pm
	If you have the engine out,take the push rods out roll it on its side to remove the cam with the gear on, change the plate push the cam back in and you dont have to mess with pulling the gear off (which I wouldnt suggest). Just so you know the fuel pump isnt going to work well on a tractor, so you should change the fuel system, or send the combine pump in and have it set to tractor specs.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21847	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 3:08pm
	If I was going to try that engine swap, I might consider still using the combine front plate and narrow it (if needed) and make plates to bolt to the tractor side frame holes and weld or bolt them to the combine plate. No engine disassembly required.....just a little fabrication time.

Jordan(OH) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Celina, OH Points: 1563	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jordan(OH) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Nov 2011 at 6:45am
	My 210 Has an n5 engine, front plate was not changed but modified as dr said. Fuel pump was not changed either and i have experienced no issues running the combine pump in close to 3 years.