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tbran 
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Paris Tn
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 Topic: 426 8070 oil passage
Posted: 05 Feb 2022 at 9:51pm |
uploads/963/drilling_2022-02-05_21-47-41.jpg
The main saddle was still drilled to lube the cam driven oil pump which exited in the early 210-220. An ole Ac service rep suggested plugging this at any teardown.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Gregor
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prague, Ne
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 7:30am |
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I don't have any good insight for you, but about 5 years ago, I overhauled my 8070 and noticed the main bearings for the top side were different and came with instructions and small round balls to plug a hole in the main saddle. I didn't want to split the tractor to drop the crank. My main bearing looked good on the top side. So I just replaced the bottom halves of the bearings and and left it alone. From memory, I think it said something about better piston cooling, but I really don't remember.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 7:40am |
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Two completely different issues. The 8000 series original design upper main bearing shells were discontinued 25 or so years ago. So, as a result, the upper main shells that are now provided need the piston cooling squirter holes plugged in the block to keep oil pressures within a specific range. You did the right thing on an in-frame OH. Just use the old upper shells.
Edited by DrAllis - 06 Feb 2022 at 7:41am
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CORLEWFARM
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 7:56am |
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That needs to be in the knowledge section
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tbran
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 8:58am |
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I has been our experience that # 5 rod is the most susceptible to damage due to oil starvation, my buddy thinks this is part of the issue - I can't prove it but he said he never had a failure and oil pressure builds faster with the hole plugged especially after sitting a few days.. This is FYI
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 12:29pm |
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Any guess if Clevites bought in 2009 would have been made like OEM? That's what my 8070 got but I didn't do the work. Has 700 + hrs so I guess it is ok? #5 rod looked fine last summer when dealing with a leaking liner seal.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 12:31pm |
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He is of course talking about the old Generation #1 3000 series blocks. I've always blamed slow oil pressure build up due to the fact that both engine oil filters are empty from draining back, versus the Mark 2 engines having the oil filters unable to empty themselves when sitting around for weeks on end.
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NEVER green
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 6:08pm |
 DrAllis wrote:
He is of course talking about the old Generation #1 3000 series blocks. I've always blamed slow oil pressure build up due to the fact that both engine oil filters are empty from draining back, versus the Mark 2 engines having the oil filters unable to empty themselves when sitting around for weeks on end. |
Exactly, thats why my Allis manual says to fill those filters after oil change.
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2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50
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NEVER green
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 6:10pm |
tbran wrote:
I has been our experience that # 5 rod is the most susceptible to damage due to oil starvation, my buddy thinks this is part of the issue - I can't prove it but he said he never had a failure and oil pressure builds faster with the hole plugged especially after sitting a few days.. This is FYI |
Steve Fisher came to the same conclusion awhile back on here.
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2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50
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rieg
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Posted: 09 Feb 2022 at 8:00pm |
Hey Steve I used Clevite kits to rebuild my 8000 series 50 and 30 the bearings were exactly the same as the original, no need for plugs.
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rieg
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 11 Feb 2022 at 8:18pm |
rieg wrote:
Hey Steve I used Clevite kits to rebuild my 8000 series 50 and 30 the bearings were exactly the same as the original, no need for plugs.
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Thanks for that....
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