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3 point hitch conversion - D17 Series 4 |
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Jesse175
Bronze Level Joined: 21 Mar 2020 Location: Hughesville, pa Points: 62 |
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Posted: 20 Apr 2021 at 8:12pm |
I recently purchased a D17 Series 4 and thanks to Dr. Allis, my lift arms are now working and once I have taken out the spool and clean it I expect it will be functioning as it should. As least the lift arms are now working so that is a start.
I want to convert the snap coupler on my D17 to 3 point hitch. I know some series 4 have factory 3 point hitches and I figure my D17 must be an earlier model. I found a 185 that is being scraped and am wondering if the entire 3 point hitch will fit my D17. I believe I will have to lose the front snap coupler system and disconnect traction booster. I was told a 170 hitch would fit but want to clarify a 185 also will work.
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MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Yes, 170 175 180 185 will work. MACK
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Marlyn nwia
Silver Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Points: 365 |
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yes, I have the factory 3pt off of a 180 on my D17 ser IV
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Gatz in NE
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lincoln, NE Points: 1028 |
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If you get all the controls from the donor tractor, the Traction Booster should be part of it. There is a torsion bar laying horizontally inside the lower forging that serves the same purpose as the heavy coil spring as used in the Snap Coupler. As long as that torsion bar and the hex sockets in works in are not wore out, it should work fine. Of course there are adjustments that may need to be made. Edited by Gatz in NE - 20 Apr 2021 at 11:00pm |
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Jesse175
Bronze Level Joined: 21 Mar 2020 Location: Hughesville, pa Points: 62 |
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thanks for the advice.
He said he had everything. Probably for what I am going to use it for I will not need the traction booster but if I can figure how to hook it all up I will. He also has the top bracket that I will need for the top link. Hope he has the top link also. How hard will it be to swap out the lift arms? Is there a way to put a puller on them or can they be driven off from the backside? I want to go factor 3 point as the after market one's look flimsy. Is $375 a decent price on the complete 3 point? |
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Oldwrench
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Jan 2020 Location: Northeast Points: 112 |
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I switched my IV using a 180 donor years ago, and everything is a straight bolt on. I never bothered to remove the old SC box, and just slip the old SC drawbar in on the few occasions I need a drawbar. I have the replacement mount, but never bothered to install it. I also got some extra valves from the donor hydraulics, so I had dual remotes. With the hydraulics all cleaned up and working like new, it is a thing of beauty. Position and traction controls all work as well as any modern tractor and the 3ph is as rugged as they come, and really convenient for hooking things up with the extendable draft arms. You'll love it once you get it on and everything cleaned up and adjusted. I know I wouldn't trade the IV now for any of the modern stuff that costs $30K+ and needs a computer to fix them.
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Jesse175
Bronze Level Joined: 21 Mar 2020 Location: Hughesville, pa Points: 62 |
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The D17 was my dad's first new tractor and he bought it when I was born in 1962 so it was an older series. He farm around 150 acres and used it to plow, harrow, plant and hay with. We had a WC which saw little use except pulling wagons and light work. He also did custom farming which was mostly planting corn with it. That was the tractor I learned to drive and farm with so it has sentimental value to me.
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Oldwrench
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Jan 2020 Location: Northeast Points: 112 |
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$375 is a bargain compared to the aftermarket hitches, and there is no comparison in quality or utility since the factory 3ph integrates into all the controls. Here is a page from the user manual showing the position control and draft control linkages. Except for the connecting rods that I had to fabricate since they were missing on the salvage unit I got, the basic linkages are the same for the SC and 3PH. You shouldn't run into any major problems on the switchover.
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