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226 oil system question.

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danno067 View Drop Down
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Joined: 29 Jul 2019
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danno067 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 226 oil system question.
    Posted: 27 May 2020 at 8:34pm
Guy brought me a 226 motor in a box and asked if could build him a pulling engine for his wd45. After examining everything i believe the block is a d17, the crank is 5.75, the bore is 4.50. Not a bad start. My question is someone installed the cam bearings but the center bearing only has one oil hole that is going to the center main. The main feed passage is blocked. I'm wondering if someone was intending to change the oil system to be priority main oiling. Has anyone done this?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2020 at 10:19am
On a "full-flow" oiling system all three cam bearings are the same. On the old cotton string filter system the center cam brg has 2 holes. D-17 engines have 3 inch main brgs.   WD45 mains are smaller at about 2.500" or so.

Edited by DrAllis - 28 May 2020 at 10:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danno067 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2020 at 11:28am
The block and crank have 3 inch mains. Does the cam serve as the main oil gally?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2020 at 12:26pm
Hollow camshaft is indeed the main oil galley. That is why it is so important to have good cam bearings for decent oil pressure.  Are you a PH8A filter (full flow) or cotton string filter ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danno067 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2020 at 12:36pm
Judging by the filter base that's in the box of parts i assume it would be a ph8a type of filter.
The cam should be fed oil via the center cam bearing, correct?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2020 at 3:10pm
Yes. Then, the front and rear mains receive their oil from the camshaft. Pretty simple design and the block was easier and cheaper to cast without a main oil galley.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danno067 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2020 at 4:20pm
Thank you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danno067 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:23pm
Dr.Allis one more question. Would know the intake lobe center line for the 175 cam?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:54pm
I come up with 112.5 degrees for both the 170 and 175 cam which are a different grind from each other. I have a good friend in Ohio who told me trying to alter a 175 cams timing doesn't work well at all. He says A-C has that thing tuned about as well as it can be and still be able to lug down to 900 RPM peak torque. I have never tried anything other than OEM timing for the 175 cam even before he told me that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danno067 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 9:20pm
Could you tell me what you think of these specs? Cam specs. @ .050 lift
Ex lobe lift  .322   valve lift. .595  duration 239
Ex open  45 bbdc
Ex close  14 atdc
Ex C.L.  106
In lobe lift   .320   valve lift  .592  duration 238
In open  9 btdc
In close  49 abdc
In C.L.   108

Engine specs.
4.560 bore
5.750 stroke
Comp. Is 13.5:1 static
1.95 intake valve
1.64 exhaust valve
1.85 rocker ratio

Cam was degreed with stock timing gears.

Edited by danno067 - 29 May 2020 at 9:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 9:50pm
I have no opinion on the grind. I have used a 175 cam that was ground for more lift. I think it was .460" stock valve lift and it was changed to .560" lift. Timing/duration numbers were to remain the same as OEM.  I can't say that it made a huge difference and I simply do not have the time or patience to try five different camshafts looking for that "pot-of-gold" at the end of the camshaft rainbow. This cam was used in stock RPM and 30% over RPM classes. This much I can tell you. I built two identical 360 cube engines 25 yrs ago one winter. Same bore/stroke, camshaft (175) and carb (D-19). The only difference was one had oversized valves (existing customer head freshened up) and the other stock valves with shortened up intake guides. When each was run on the dyno there was no difference in their HP output !! and I would bet the small valve engine would lug a bit lower before stalling. Ignition timing always works best at 18 to 22 degrees BTDC on my engines.

Edited by DrAllis - 29 May 2020 at 9:51pm
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