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201 governor |
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littlemarv ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1834 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 09 Nov 2015 at 8:45pm |
Here are two governors I got in a box of parts. Looks like two different styles. The one on the right is locked up and maybe has parts missing?
I guess I'm just wondering if one is better than the other, or is one prone to flying apart? I've read stories of governors coming apart and going through the gear train. Once I know which one to use, then we will get into wear parts and rebuilding tips.... Thanks in advance. ![]() |
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1751 |
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The governor on the right was the later version used on WD's. The left one was used on early WC tractors. The one on the right is missing the thrust bearing on the small shaft.
My opinion would be to use the newer version one on the right, seems to have less small parts that could fly off. |
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A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
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littlemarv ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1834 |
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Worked on the governor on the right tonight.
Put some homebrew penetrating oil in the oil hole for the shaft, let it soak awhile. Just a touch with a pipe wrench and it started turning. Once I got it freed up, the shaft pulls in and out of the housing about 1/16". I'm assuming this shaft is on bushings, not bearings. Whats this hole for? ![]() Found this thrust bearing in my bucket O' goodies. Sure looks like the right part. The whole bearing is one piece save for the surface I am pointing to. Flushed out the bearing with brakeclean, then put a little motor oil in there. It feels smooth, although it seems like you can hear the balls rattling around in there, like there is room for one or two more balls in there. How is this bearing lubricated? Seems it should have a steady supply of oil, because isn't it always turning? ![]() So here it is all assembled, I think. Just need the pin out of the other one, I assume it is a locating pin to accurately place the governor assembly when you bolt it to the block. ![]() The pads on the flyweights don't show much wear, but they shouldn't, as they turn with the thrust bearing. As far as the pins and holes in the weights themselves go, they seem to be a little more worn on the ends with the pads on them, but not a lot. ![]() I'm assuming the spring that belongs here is what actually keeps the flyweights in? ![]() So is that all there is to it? I don't see any reason to take it apart, just going to steam clean it out, work some oil through the bushings, and put it on the shelf till I need it. Any advice appreciated. Thanks for looking! |
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 6072 |
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As you can see- they're extremely simple. I'm no expert on these, but I'll tell you what I know:
Differences... the WC's flyweight system is a little more complex, but does the same thing as the latter (and more simplified) WD and WD-45. Governed speed: 1938 WC 1300rpm 1948 WD 1400rpm 1953 WD45 1400rpm 1957 D17 1650 1968 170 1800 I don't know if the weights or spring rates changed to make the RPM increase. I do know that governor weight failures aren't nonexistant, and I believe the failure most often occurs at the pivot pin areas of the weights. There are also other versions of governors used, particularly of note is the governor used in the Gleaner E and similiar applications, the governor's concept is not 'variable'... it's set up to be used on a narrow RPM band, not manual set on anything other than 'go' and half-idle or so. Those types of governors I've seen were all painted grey, but I won't suggest that they all are... Edited by DaveKamp - 16 Nov 2015 at 3:25pm |
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Tim NH ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Lancaster NH Points: 1125 |
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The long shaft on the left have two bushings inside, one at each end. Check the shaft for side to side play. I had to replace both mine. There is also a seal for the shaft on the right side. That bearing does have a rattle to it. I put a red stripe spring on mine. Sandy Lake is closet to me, that's where my parts came from. Tim
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1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22825 |
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It's kinda hard to tell without taking them apart, but if there is any wear in the pins or the hole in the weight that the pin goes thru, replace the weights and pins. It's a whole lot cheaper and easier to do it now, than when the weight comes apart and goes down thru the crankshaft and cam gears.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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