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201 engine assembly

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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2016 at 11:59am
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

Yes it does.the K cover is made so the exhaust heats the intake pipe which doesn't work so good for gasoline.


Actually, BOTH gasoline and distillate fuels (kerosene) get exhaust heat... Kerosene, however, gets more, because of two reasons:

1) Kerosene's flashpoint is much higher than gasoline
2) Kerosene's burn temperature us much lower than gasoline

Because of the presence of high velocity airflow through the venturi, there is a pressure drop, and commensurate lowering of temperature in the intake manifold. It's a natural result of Combined Gas Law... air is going from ambient pressure and temp, to substantially lower pressure, thus, temperature. The end result is that moisture IN the air becomes frost, and will rapidly fill up the interior of the intake if additional heat isn't added. SINCE distillate fuel's exhaust temp is lower, it takes more heat at the manifold.

Go out early in the morning, start her up, and get it up to half throttle and watch what happens to the intake, and you'll immediately understand.

The K-model has pathways for more exhaust heat to be directed to the intake, just for these reasons.

NOW...

Notice that in this manifold, you've got a HOT side of the casting, and a COLD side.

IF you EVER have an engine that acts like it has a vacuum leak, but you cannot FIND it by any of the usual tricks, there's a good possibility that the vacuum leak is from the exhaust chamber, through a crack in the casting, to the intake side.

It is also not unusual for a leak in this area to be totally variable... like, sealed up tight when the temp is cold, and really leaky when warm, the crack is opening up as the casting warms up.

Very few people check this, and understandably so... it's not an easy thing to fix... oftentimes, guys just change the manifold.

BTW, awesome thread- great pictures!
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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littlemarv View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2016 at 9:26am
Better than Christmas! Got a present from Rick. Should be everything I need to set the engine into the chassis. Pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch disk, and water pump. I already have a pressure plate, and a trans input seal, which is just a piece of cork. I think that's everything I need.....




Strung a chain out back for my hoist,






And applied an amount of primer comparable to what was used on the Titanic. Not too worried about looks at this point, just trying to cover up all the bare metal.








Got the manifold primed and painted with high temp paint.





I've never installed a manifold on one of these engines. I'm assuming the two gaskets on the left are for a 45 or something, and are not used in my application. How do the gaskets go? My best guess is the paper gasket goes in the metal piece, then that goes on the manifold, and the metal pieces are steel on steel to the head?


Made some carb mounting studs.



Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:33pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, HB212, 416H
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2016 at 8:09pm
Great job!
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...hobby farmer, Pastor in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2016 at 8:32pm
Marv,
 That's looking very good! The WC will be up and going soon at this pace and new parts too! Your rounding the corner when you start getting things painted.
Regards,
 Chris
D17, WD45, WD,
Ford Jubilee, IH TD6
Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bodnarboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2016 at 12:20pm
Hey everybody!!

I am ALMOST ready to assemble my WC that was my grandfather's. Got it back in family in Oct. after 30 some years for FREE!! Sad thing was, #2 had bent rod as it appears to have filled with water and I assuming ppl who had it before I got it back tried to tow start and bent the rod terrible!! So..after the Tisco kit and machine shop work on head and turned the crank, I am ready for assembly, you post on here is AMAZING!! I was wondering you mentioned "Videos from Don" Is that on the site here somewhere?
PS. crank was turned .030 on mains, .020 on rods, I bought a set of wd45 rods, have all matching bearings, I bought the laminate pack of shims for mains, as I was told the rods won't need them? what is the correct process for installing the shims?

Thanks in advance!!
Billy Bodnar
Denton, Maryland.
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Allis dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2016 at 6:18am
Bodnarboy,
Welcome to the forum and good luck with that motor! The video form Don is the oil pan install video in the knowledgebase section. WC's and WD's originally had shim in the mains and rods. WD45's had no rod shims. You should always check your tolerances with a plastigauge no matter what we tell you. You never know what was done to this motor before you had it.
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2016 at 9:28am
Marv,
You are such an improvisor! That engine hoist is unreal!
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...hobby farmer, Pastor in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dawntreader74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2016 at 11:24pm
marv'' i thought you would be driving that wc- around the yard by now' i want to see you ride it ClapClap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2016 at 2:38pm
Yeah, I thought so too. The rest of my life keeps getting in the way. This weekend the tractor rolls in the shed and then I will get more done. The radiator is at the shop and I have to get the mag up to snuff, and clean out a fuel tank, and then it should be just nuts and bolts. (Famous last words).
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, HB212, 416H
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dawntreader74 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dawntreader74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2016 at 9:22pm
GOOD-LUCK '' i want to see you ride that WC marv'
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Bodnarboy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bodnarboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2016 at 12:09pm
I have all my head studs in and oil pump put back together. Anybody know what nuts I need for head studs? I would naturally go grade 8, do I use lock or regular washers?

Thanks,
Billy
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Allis dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2016 at 12:45pm
The head stud nuts just take a regular grade 8 nut. No washers.

Edit - Head bolts should use washers.

Edited by Allis dave - 10 Aug 2016 at 1:04pm
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Bodnarboy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bodnarboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 8:19am
Thanks Allis dave!! I did get confused it appeared that littlemerv had washers underneath his bolts in his pictures above. I do have a really important question yet stupid on my part.   I am ready to assemble my cam gear back to the camshaft, however, I have zero idea what position it goes on as the 3 holes could allow it to be assembled 3 different ways. I imagine this is a very important step....I bought the WC Service manual but didn't locate any information on it.

Thanks

Billy Bodnar
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littlemarv View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 3:57pm
It appears that I have washers under the nuts because I DO have washers under the nuts. Page 4 of the WC parts and operating instructions book. Item number 32, quantity 12.

Take a close look at those three holes on the cam and gear. They should only line up one way.
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, HB212, 416H
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Bodnarboy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bodnarboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 5:18pm
Littlemarv,

I apologize for spelling your name wrong in last post! You truly are a life saver! I have come a long way on my build thus far and don't want to fail now. I will definitely take a close look tonight after supper :-) Your post has been a huge help!

Thank you
Billy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WDDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 7:55pm
New to the forum,
Great job littlemarv with your rebuld, I will get there one day.
I wanted to ask DaveKamp if there are any fixes for a crack between the intake and exaust port as he described other than head replacement?
   I will know better when I get 1/2" of grease scrapped off but I think I have a crack in that area.
I have a 1950 WD with 4" tall head.
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Bodnarboy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bodnarboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 8:29pm
Littlemarv,

Took that second look and lined up like a charm! Thanks a MILLION!

Billy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 9:06pm
Littlemarv,
 You have a WD group following you!
Welcome Forum newcomers, sounds like your lost in the 50's like me!
(With 7 tractors from the 50's)
Regards,
 Chris
D17, WD45, WD,
Ford Jubilee, IH TD6
Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2016 at 1:01am
The pilot bearing fit pretty easily, so I staked the bore a little with a center punch. That, and a little green Loctite should take care of it.






Torqued the flywheel on, and marked the two "F" marks, and the TDC one that lines up with the setscrew on the front pulley. Not sure if I will need them or not, but they are easier to see.





Lined up the disk and bolted the pressure plate on.








Got the manifold on as well. Made my own studs. The short ones are from a 3406 Cat, and the two long ones are from Fastenal. Also got some thick 3/8" washers, and two 7/16" washers for the center two studs.










Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:40pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, HB212, 416H
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Bodnarboy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bodnarboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2016 at 8:31am
Hey guys.....I made rookie boo boo and trimmed my rear main felt seal BEFOFRE I watched Don's video. New one be here tomorrow..Question for Littlemarv..I would like to use a sealed pilot bearing like yourself as it appears there was a lot of leakage judging by the inside of my clutch housing. Was it a direct fit? and if you don't mind what is there any special procedure for plugging the crank with the cork? I greatly appreciate all of your help thus far. I plastigauged my crank and the shim kit from Sandy Lake worked great. I have water jacket and rocker assembly installed. Your post has been a lifesaver!!

Billy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2016 at 12:47pm
To plug the crank I picked up some tapered corks from the local hardware store. Dug out as much of the wick as I could reach with a small pick. I put one cork in the front side, and think I actually drove two in from the back.

The pilot bearing almost slid in by hand, so I took a center punch, and staked or peened the bore where the bearing goes. That raises little metal to hold the bearing in. Make sure the end of the input shaft fits into the bearing before installation.
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote trackicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2016 at 4:30pm
Hello, I'm a new-be to this site. Enjoying this engine build.
I have an H3 crawler with a 149cu I'm overhauling and wondering if anyone has some technical specs or at least experience with the block deck height. First, I have no idea if the block was surfaced in the past. It was warped .005, I knew someone with a mill and though I was ahead of the game expense wise...but it came back to bit me. It's unclear how much was taken off and will take a bit more to get squared up again.
So now I'm wondering how much can be taken off before it becomes a problem, I don't want to end up needing av-gas to run thing.
any 2 cents is welcome...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 12:51pm
I would say the compression increase would be negligible.You will likely find the counter bores are not square will the deck now(deeper on one side).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 1:37pm
Originally posted by trackicker trackicker wrote:

Hello, I'm a new-be to this site. Enjoying this engine build.
I have an H3 crawler with a 149cu I'm overhauling and wondering if anyone has some technical specs or at least experience with the block deck height. First, I have no idea if the block was surfaced in the past. It was warped .005, I knew someone with a mill and though I was ahead of the game expense wise...but it came back to bit me. It's unclear how much was taken off and will take a bit more to get squared up again.
So now I'm wondering how much can be taken off before it becomes a problem, I don't want to end up needing av-gas to run thing.
any 2 cents is welcome...


Welcome!  If you want to get some additional answers to your question, please go create a new post in the "Farm Equipment" section and ask the exact same question (even though this is a crawler - same engine as some tractors) - you will get far more responses.   Posting this question in someone else's post is not considered good form.   This particular post is here in the knowledge base to help others doing an identical engine and the original poster is  updating his progress as he goes along.   Interjecting your question in the middle breaks the flow of his rebuild story.   Good luck.   Mike


Edited by Skyhighballoon(MO) - 27 Jul 2016 at 1:38pm
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2016 at 9:49pm
Well, I had a fellow I work with rebuild the mag for me. I meant for him to show me how, but the two of us are so busy we could never find an hour to set down and go through the dang thing. He has all the parts in stock and rebuilds them regularly. So, got the set screw on the crank straight down, pointed the rotor at the plastic tab, and bolted it up.

Had to modify the gasket, as it didn't have a hole for the locating pin.




Got a universal wire set from Fleet, and some Autolite 295s.




Dumped in 5 quarts of 10w-30 and a bottle of zinc,



I plan on running 15-40 in this motor, but figured I'd run 10w-30 for a break in oil. Filled the radiator, and the air cleaner cup, dumped a few gallons of non ethanol in the tank. Checked the tranny oil as well.

Hooked up a mechanical gauge just to be sure on the oil pressure.




And cranked her over. Actually started pretty good, I think. I shot a video of it running, but I'll be danged if I can get it to upload.

It has about 12 psi oil pressure, might add a shim to try and bring that up. Coolant temp at the water manifold seemed to settle in to 150 degrees.

Of course, I hopped on and took it for a spin up the street quick. All gears seem good.

I loosened the mag, and moved it back and forth. It seems to run the best when I pull the top of the mag away from the block, like this.





Now the bad news. There is oil leaking out of the governor shaft. I knew this was egged out, but didn't think there was that much oil up there, Apparently the governor and gear train must fling it around in there pretty good. Can a guy drill that out and bush it or something?



More to come.... thanks for looking!




The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, HB212, 416H
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2016 at 10:03pm
Way to go!
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...hobby farmer, Pastor in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 2016 at 3:24pm
Hip Hip Hip Hooray!!! She's running!! 

Hope that the oil leaking around the governor shaft is an easy fix.... Wink (Famous last words, but I still hope that....) 
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomMN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 9:21am
Great pictures!
To get your mag to be vertical when timed correctly the mag drive slot needs to be horizontal when at TDC.

If you point the rotor at the tab for one that is when it will fire while running and will be 30 degrees before TDC.  I would mount the governor with mag drive first then put the mag on it, with the mag at horizontal you will see the rotor is a bit after the timing tab in the cap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomMN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 9:25am
On that oil leak, since there is no seal there they will all leak there.  The front of these engines all would be very caked with oiled grime there.  Factory designed flush system. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 11:54am
Thanks Tom. I will try retiming the mag because that bothers me that it runs the best when pulled all the way out. Makes me wonder if it would run better if I could move it more.... I may even start it, and remove the two bolts and turn the mag past the slots to see if it gets any better. It starts good, and I think it runs good, but I just wonder if it couldn't be better. I have to do something on that governor shaft. The fan is blowing the oil onto the rear fenders. I have a nice thick square cut rubber grommet that I may slip on there to at least slow it down.

Has anyone ever heard of using newer spark plug wires causing problems because the spark actually gets to the plug faster, which actually advances your timing? Because when you pull out on the top of the mag you are retarding it, no?
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, HB212, 416H
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