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201 engine assembly

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Ted J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar 2016 at 7:07am
Nice job so far Marv!!  Good documentation and the pics are great!  Not out of focus or anything.  GREAT job!
I've got a good idea how you're going to get it out of the basement....... I did it with a piano once....Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2016 at 3:11pm
you mentioned a rolling resistance of 250 inch pounds with the pistons and bearings installed.... I have measured 20- 25 ft pounds in the past, which is similar... I agree.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2016 at 4:49pm
Marv,
I am enjoying your photo documentary. It is very interesting to me. I did not grow up with a Dad who could do this, or near a shop that did it. I find it very fascinating and way above my head. I wish I could of learned this skill. Thanks for sharing.
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 8:53pm
O.K., got the head back. I thought everything looked pretty good, but they really went through it. All new guides, 4 new seats, added valve stem seals, pressure tested, resurfaced, cleaned, and new frost plugs.






I also dropped off the manifold as well. I really only wanted it baked and blasted to get all the crud out of the intake side, but they gave it the once over as well. They machined the carb gasket surface, the manifold surface, and took the cover off and pulled the studs and machined that surface too. I have heard stories of the manifold being machined too much and then the carb hits the block? Also heard of machining it at an angle to prevent that? At any rate, we will see how that turns out- I am not putting on the manifold yet, I plan on taking the engine outside and priming every nook and cranny before bolting the manifold and the mag on.





Does anyone make a gasket for the manifold cover, otherwise I can make one...




So, gave the headgasket a snort of copper coat,





and laid it down. The gasket was stamped "UP", but that had XXXXXX printed over it, and "THIS SIDE UP" was printed on the opposite side. I had a 50/50 chance, so I put the printed side up.




They also reground the radius on all the rocker arms. Those were very worn. Good as new!





Got the rockers put back together.





Torqued the head to 70 foot pounds, installed the water manifold, push rods, and rocker shaft assembly. Torqued the rockers to 25 foot pounds, and set the valves to 0.014" cold. I figure that should be close enough until I can run it to check it hot, and retorque the head while I'm in there.

Trued up the oil filter base, because that had been way overtightened, like pretty much every other one.




Installed the dipstick bushing, oil pressure regulator, pushrod cover, filter base, and oil lines.











Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:05pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2016 at 9:45pm
Making great progress again. Looks like you had a good Easter weekend. It's good to see everything coming together nicely.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 9:40pm
Great work very educational. Thank you for sharing and the photos!
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phil48ACWC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 8:21am
Check video below. This is the proper way to safety wire. You don't need the expensive spinner pliers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XktwpWPFvHs

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2016 at 9:39am
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 12:13pm
Marv,
 Just awesome documentation on a WC engine build. Maybe even I could do one someday too. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Glad to see the kids helping too.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 3:50pm
I'm a clean freak also. But I don't have leaks so there is benefit. Have you ever seen a set of bearings that were installed in a dirty engine? NOT good. That's why I like to spin the pump if possible. It can wash some of the dirt out left in inadvertenly. Good job. Leon R  Cmo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 8:42pm
littlemarv,I'm not certain here,but I believe it has been said not to use seals on valves on these engines because the guides will wear quickly.Need to check with MACK or Drallis or any other know quanity....

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 03 Apr 2016 at 8:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote structures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 2:18pm
Great build.  Great detail and pics!  On the head gasket for my 160cu in D15II the gasket was almost reversible.  There was a hole at the back of the block but also the water path holes were progressively larger from back to front.  It appears your gasket might be similar.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2016 at 11:50pm
Installed an oil filter (made sure it is the stuffed kind, not pleated paper) and built a custom lifting bracket. Also installed a 1 ton chain hoist in the ceiling of the basement.





Borrowed the preluber from work. You put oil in the tank, pressurize it with compressed air, hook it into the oil galley, and fill the oil system to eliminate dry startups.




Plumbed in where the oil pump delivery line from the oil pump goes.





Took awhile to fill the system, but eventually I had oil coming out all the mains, the rods, and all the rockers. Its neat how oil runs down the rockers to lubricate the push rod sockets and valve stems.








Not sure if the preluber is higher pressure and lower flow versus the oil pump, but the relief valve opened right away, so I plugged the ports with my fingers, and then the gauge would register. We'll see how it acts when I fire it up......someday.










Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:10pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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TomMN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomMN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2016 at 9:08am
Very nice.  I have only seen the oil flowing up top with the engine running and the cover off.  Fun to see it in a steady state as the oil flows through where the designers intended.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2016 at 1:02am
Flipped the engine over.






I thought the safety wire videos were really neat, so I redid those.










Installed the oil pump. Yes, that is Don's oil pan video in the background.





Put the pan on, torqued the bolts to 18 foot pounds.





Flipped it back up, put the valve cover on just snug, and installed these stands I welded up out of some scrap iron I had laying around.








So there it is. I think I will put the water pump on, then up the stairs she goes, out to the garage for a coat of primer.


Thanks for looking!

Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:18pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2016 at 8:16am
She is looking good, I'm happy to see you rewired the main cap bolts. I have built lots of engine stands so the engine can ship and you have a nice set built. Now it's time to move her out of the house and please post some shots of it going up the steps and out the door. lol
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2016 at 7:15am
Definitely some pictures of 'the trip out'! Big smile
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2016 at 7:16am
Lookin' real good, by the way. It is fun to watch your progress!!
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2016 at 10:14am
When I rebuilt the engine for my 45 I had to use a WD block. Learning how to safety wire was one of the more interesting parts of the job. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 10:26pm
When I got the manifold back, they had taken the cover off and cleaned it out. I never thought to look closely, I just thought "Huh, looks like I need to get some exhaust gasket paper and make one for this, so the intake and exhaust gases don't mix."

So, I picked up a sheet of exhaust gasket paper. Boy is that some crap to work with. It has metal in it so custom trimming is pretty tough.

At any rate, now that I look at it, that upper chamber does nothing. I thought that was the intake side of the manifold, but it is more or less a sealed chamber. Nothing goes in and out of it as far as I can tell. Whats it even for? Does that have something to do with the "G" or "K" covers you can get?




Anyways, made a gasket and installed the cover with some new brass nuts.


Masked off the carb surface, out to the paint booth tomorrow, for some extra high temp primer and paint. I don't know how hot the old manifold will get, but I figure the stuff rated for 3000 degrees ought to cover it. (Yeah right)








Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:27pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 10:35pm
Yes it does.the K cover is made so the exhaust heats the intake pipe which doesn't work so good for gasoline.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 12:05pm
K stands for Kerosene probably.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cdweirrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 3:26pm
I have loved reading this thread. As someone who is new to all of this and looking forward to learning, it has been full of valuable information. I cant wait to see the finished product!
Grandpa's 1950 WD
1950 G
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2016 at 8:44pm
Time to get the motor outside. I had to take the valve cover back off, because now that I put the pan and stands on, its too tall. Put a piece of pipe up in the floor joists to hang my hoist from. Big brother stopped by, and we lifted the engine and ever so gently slid it off the bench. Set the two wheeled cart under it and lowered it down.





Ratchet strapped it to the cart, and up the stairs we went. He was pulling, and I would lift up each step, and it really went pretty good. Didn't have a photographer when we really needed it, and our hands were definitely full!

But here it is rolling out the kitchen door...





So there, a successful trip out. Needs to go out to the paint booth for a coat of primer. Then the chassis needs to come into the garage and we can set her home.






Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:28pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2016 at 6:16am
Less dramatic than I thought the trip up the stairs would be, all I can say is you and your brother must be some "heavy duty guys".   My fear would be getting it up to stair number four and running out of gas. Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 8:43am
I don't understand why the pics of your rolling chassis don't appear here as they did in an E-mail notification I received. But,,, in relation to steering wheel slop; find the bearing adjusting bolt under the pedestal and between the two front wheels. Tighten this  a bit at a time while checking for reduced slop. It may take care of it for you.    
'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 9:46am
Doing a great job documenting this project.  Curious why you opted to stay with the old style water outlet instead of the later with thermostat for automatic temp control.
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 3:13pm
I went with the no thermostat one for a couple reasons. First off, I have three thermostat housings, three of which became perforated when I tried to clean them up. Second, I'm not sure how many combinations of water manifold-head thickness-radiator necks there are. But I think this is original? Not sure, we will see once I get the motor in and radiator set down. I may have to change something.
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 7:28pm
Very nice documentation on your engine build! Thanks for posting the details.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2016 at 7:01am
Something I do is that on any exhaust and the four on that plate, I use stainless nuts and lock washers. They don't rust in place as bad, which can give you headache. Leon R  Cmo
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